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I'm pretty sure he's not posting and doing this in real time guys...these seem like a historical documentation.
Either way, good work. Some air packets will not be the end of the world as long as the wood is sealed in. Besides, he CPESed everything anyway.
Why am I posting...back to working on the boat.
Looking really good! This should now become a go-to-thread to people who are thinking of tackling this project.
Where are you as far as time/money goes?
Thanks for the comments guys. I started this project 1 1/2 years ago but decided to post after completion. My job has me traveling through the week and family oblighations on the weekend made this repair a slow process. I will have more to show in the next few days. As far as the air pockets, I think you will see that the ligher areas are from sanding the surface to prep for paint and not from lack of epoxy. That being said, there are areas, especially around the motor box, that could have been done better.
I feel better it looked like superman was doing the job. It takes time to do that kind of work especially when you cant stay with it .
Here are a few of the errors I made. I decided to replace the 1/2" factory flooring with 3/4" marine plywood. In doing so, I reduced the stringer height by
1/4". This exposed the ski pylon bracket above the top of the stringer. I used a press to flatten out the bottom flange so the bracket would fit under the floor.
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Another error is when fitting the floor, I cut out a square under the motor box. The floor is actually angled toward the front so I had to create an insert. Once again, more CPES.
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Top of floor gets glassed in. I did not allow for the thickness of the carpet when fitting in the inspection cover over the prop shaft. I had to trim the width then re-attach the carpet.
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Next project was the motor box cover. The factory used butt joints and staples. Mine came out as more of a lap joint for a larger surface area for gluing.It was easier to cut the large angle by clamping 2 boards together and using a hand saw. A belt sander was used for fine tuning the edges.
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With the excepion of replacing starters, this boat has been pretty trouble free over the last 25 years. For better access to the starter in the future, I decided to use hinges to mount the motor box. This way I can lift the motor box and box frame out of the way.
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Lid comes back down and ratchet straps help to fit. Most of the prior holes lined up perfectly except for the front quarter. I am still baffled by this.
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