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I used my cut-off tool to cut out the stringer. I drove an eyelet into the stringer and attached it to the chainfall. It was heave but came out in one piece. The stringer was in pretty good shape but it is too late for second thoughts.
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There is a lot of discussion on what to use as replacement material. I decided to go with Sitka Spruce from a special lumber store in Charlotte MI. It is Very Expensive but I love the straight grain and no knots.
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Grinding out the area for the new stringer creats a lot of dust. Do not under estimate, dust gets everywhere. I rented this Milwaukee grinder but ended up buying a DeWalt variable speed polisher/grinder. Doing one stringer at a time allows for better alignment and clamping.
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I used a compass as a scribe, a hand plane, and a belt sander to form the shape of the stringer.
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Everything gets soaked in CPES. The CPES will eat through the red Solo cups eventually as I found out.
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I added drain holes since I am not replacing foam. I tacked in the stringers using PL adhesive with 1/8th inch shims and clamped into place. I was a bit too agressive with the adhesive and had to remove the excess.
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Although the factory sandwiched 2x's together for the motor box, I decided to use a solid piece of stock for mine. I had to measure the angle and sand off the excess.
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Wow, you are moving fast and your work looks first class. At this rate you'll be back in the water before fall.
Time for the fiberglass process. I used West Systems microfiber filler material and US Composits epoxy to make the 'peanut butter.' I decided on the 1708 glass mat also from US Composits.
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The factory notched in the cross members and that seems to be the point where the stringers start to rot. I decided not not to nothch and added extra cross members. I measured, cut, rounded and dry fit them into place. It was also helpful to label them. Everything gets soaked in CPES.
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