Wet Sanding?..... I need it. :S

Well if there is one thing about me I can admit when I'm wrong... sort of. So I brought the Sunsport home today Yah! I got out the buffer and the Buff Magic... nothing... am thinking maybe the wax that had been put on over top of the oxidization, might be the cause of my troubles but I decided to to try wetsanding the bottom corner to see how it would turn out. So I wet sanded.. used buff magic compond, and then put some polish on. Now I want to do the whole boat. So the question I have to those who have done the wet sanding is;

1. Can I use an electric or air rotary sander on the big parts?
2. Do I need to sand it twice or can I use 320 (which I used today) and then buff it? or do I need to do 320 then 600 then buff? or can I just use 600?
3. Should I take off the decals and put new ones on when I'm done?

Thanks all.

By the way I still like the Buff Magic and it did wonders on my Bayliner... was wondering if maybe the gelcoat is softer or if had never had wax on it. Comment on this if you wish.
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Don't think you need to wet sand, rubbing compound should do the trick. Not sure whats in the Buff Magic, it may be just a mild buffing wax or polish. Go to auto parts or car paint store and get rubbing compound. You will need a good buffing pad to put on a drill or buffer. I would try this first before wet sanding, rubbing compound should take off oxidation. Be careful on sharp 90 degree corners and other pronouced areas. You can put a piece of making tape over those areas, then hand rub later after main body is done. Used to work at a large body shop. Hope it works out for you.

I think 320 is a bit too aggressive to be using on there. I just started the wet sanding process on mine yesterday. Used 800, 1000, and 1500 then compound, polish, and wax. All 3M products except the harbor freight polisher/buffer. I have only done the transom so far but it looks great. Attachment 9249

Welch is right about 320 being a course grit. Hit up an auto parts store but best if a paint store and grab wet sand paper along with a wet sand block. This is your best bet if you never wetsanded with a sander, and keeps you from sanding through the color. 800 is a good starting point to do a little sanding with. Jump to 1000 then 1500 and maybe 3000 if you want little bit of buffing. Some heavy cut rubbing compound will work great also to bring it out and not need to much wetsanding. Don't forget to grab polish and use it after you buff with rubbing compound. Grab you a harbor freight 7in buffer and buffing pads from the store to use. The variable speed on the buffer works grab to use low rpms to work the stuff in and crank it up to start buffing. Keep a spray bottle with water next to you to keep spraying a little water as you sand.

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Originally Posted by whelchel86

I think 320 is a bit too aggressive to be using on there. I just started the wet sanding process on mine yesterday. Used 800, 1000, and 1500 then compound, polish, and wax. All 3M products except the harbor freight polisher/buffer. I have only done the transom so far but it looks great. Attachment 9249

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Looks good. How did you sand the little details? (around everything)

Should I keep the Decals?

For the small detail work I used a small flexible sanding block/pad and just my fingers in some cases.

I would agree with welch. You will have a hard time getting 320 grit marks out. Sanded mine this winter and turned out great. Used 1000 grit then compounded with Presta products
and polished. I wouldn't use any grit under 1000
Attachment 9250

I think everyone's responses on here are valid, and I think there's a million ways of doing this. So, here's a before and after of my project last fall... I did 600, 800, 1200, rubbing compound, polishing compound, and wax.

http://i842.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/IMG_4691.jpg

http://i842.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/IMG_4704.jpg

I like to start by removing the water spots with auto magic water spot remover number 600. You will be amazed at what comes off, all the water spots just rinse away with just a small amount of rubbing. . You’ll need to keep it off of the aluminum and wear gloves. Start with area’s about 2 foot by 3 foot at a time. Then rinse thoroughly with water. Towel dry and move on to the next spot . I found that the water spots are harder than fiberglass. It speeds up the process by getting rid of them first. I also use this product one or twice a year just before waxing. Auto detail shops use this product all the time to remove water spots from paint and glass. I wouldn’t recommend a novice using it on there glass.
Most all of the water spots on the side of Chrisk’s black boat would probably rinse away in less than 30 minutes.
Keep up the good work. That red boats going to look really hot on the water summer while you’re cruising the dock looking to pick up checks.

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Originally Posted by whelchel86

For the small detail work I used a small flexible sanding block/pad and just my fingers in some cases.

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I was thinking of the groove that goes around the boat... did you sand it just in a straight line?

Thanks for the in put... Have about another month before I put it in the water. Have to put new boards on the dock, and wet sand the boat, change the oils, give her a tune up, and put on the tower when it comes.
Think I'll remove the decals... but I have an Idea for putting different ones on. I won't say what it is unless I don't do it, but I post some pics either way. :)
They just peel off I assume? Suggestions for easier removal welcome.

Keep the suggestions coming.... So everyones has done this by hand? Was thinking of trying an orbital sander on the Transom below the water line.. keeping the hull nice and wet while I sand.... any thoughts?

Sanders are great and will speed things up but make sure to keep it on flat surfaces and lightly hand sand any edges or dont worry about the edges. I have sanded throught so much clear and paint when I first started. I just get close to the edge with the sanding block and buff to the edge. As for the grooves, if you go to TCPglobal you will need to look up the sanding blocks. There are some foam ones that have different shapes, I need to get a set myself since it will help you reach those odd contures in the boat and still keep a nice even sanding on it. As for sanding in a straight line you can go that way or in circles. If in a straight line make sure you sand in two different directions, I always just switch hands and it will give you two directions naturally.

If you can get to an auto paint store, ask them for an eraser and the stem to go with it. Use that on your drill and that will help take away the vynal graphics on the boat really quick, just don't push down to hard on it. Let the eraser work on it's own and apply a little pressure. You will get the feel for it and start taking off graphics really quick. I did one of my jet ski's last summer and it knocked out the 13yo vynal really fast compared to when I started by hand.

great tips thanks

When it comes to polishing time is key. You are right about the wax build up, I think in the past someone waxed the boat to death and the sun baked in the wax. When I started last spring the whole boat looked like below the water line. For the best results use foam pads. Ones which have different cutting abilities. Some are for polishing and others for cutting. Any NAPA or Cross Canada will have them in stock. Also use the 3m polishes a sanding block and California water blade to squegee the fallout off the gel coat.

Still miss the ol boat too:(

I probably sinned real bad by removing the wave decals at the back of the boat. They were shot. At any rate Supra had the name and Nike swoosh, I believe, on their 2008 boats. I saw them on here with the pics that were posted at Lake Havasu Spring Break 2011. Supra wanted my first born for them. Showed Signs A Rama what I needed and they did a great job of duplicating and putting them on. Have signage on back and both sides for $176. They are guaranteed and stood up well last year.

Hey I went to academy sports and picked up a 3m marine rubbing compound. With a little wet sanding with 1000 grit and the rubbing compound it brought up a lot of the shine back out on my boat. I had some pretty bad oxidation and maybe a few more times as time goes by I will really have it cleaned up. After one afternoon it had a good turn around on the color, it is a pretty good heavy cutting compound. I am going to try out the wax and polish later on when I get a bottle of each. Just a heads up for you and anyone else looking at some stuff to grab for cleaning up your boat. After sanding and buffing yesterday, I would probaly go with 800 first then another pass with the 1000 to do less buffing and see if the shine would come out a little better. The sides were not oxidized at all so a little cutting with 1000 and the rubbing compound made it shine really nice.

Took it off the trailer on Saturday...will start working on it today... Should I start a facelift thread?
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cool, let's see some during pics. how long did it take?

do you have red bottom paint? i don't think i've ever seen an old school supra with red gel down there.

my tip for shine...'finesse it' polish before wax....who am i kidding, i'm usually too beat to wax by that time.

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Originally Posted by Salty87

cool, let's see some during pics. how long did it take?

do you have red bottom paint? i don't think i've ever seen an old school supra with red gel down there.

my tip for shine...'finesse it' polish before wax....who am i kidding, i'm usually too beat to wax by that time.

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Ya will take some during pics.... to get it off the trailer? about 5 mins.
I am having a really difficult time with whatever wax is on this boat... It's like hardened gelcoat any suggestions as to what I can use to take the wax off?

there are some products, poliglow and vertglas come to mind, where you have to strip the product to get rid of it. acetone might work but you should so some searching and reading. kinda like buff magic maybe....i've never tried any of these, just read about them.

well whatever was put on is super hard.... the oxidization is underneath but it has been polished... does that make any sense? It's not dull a chalky like the bayliner was.

Wet 600/800 grit on a sanding block. Follow with 1200 ish. Compound buff and repeat ....... Most of all work in small areas and think of it as training for the first time out for the season.