Motor not starting after warm, could this be vapor lock. It will start and run fine after it cool's off. Is there a way to stop vapor lock from happening.
Thank you
Mike
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Motor not starting after warm, could this be vapor lock. It will start and run fine after it cool's off. Is there a way to stop vapor lock from happening.
Thank you
Mike
More information would probably be helpful here such information like year, engine and fuel delivery method.
Same problem. I had to add a second hi pressure fuel pump because original pump is too close to the engine and the heat vaporizes the fuel.
Just curious, what year and engine do you have? Carb or fuel injection? I guess I've been lucky as my 04' hsa not had this problem. The pump is mounted on the lower back corner of the engine block.Quote:
Originally Posted by bonedoc
Had vapor lock a few times during the early days of my 2007.
Started running the blower during water activities and using 100% fuel (no eth). Solved the issue.
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check your ignition coil. my 05 launch would fire up and run fine. after we ran for a while and shut down to swim and hang out, if I tried to fire back up it wouldn't fire up until I opened the engine compartment for it to cool down. I chased all this stuff these guys are saying (adding secondary fuel pump, vapor lock...blah blah) I would bet its ignition related. Hope that helps and good luck. also add marine 360 with every fill up.
I am having the same issue on my 06 Sunsport 24v with the Assault 325. What motor do you have and did you replace the ignition coil yourself? If so, where did you get the coil from?
After getting it to start would it run rough? I was out on the water for a few hours and it was running great, parked it for an hour or so and then it wouldn't start. Got towed back, pulled it out and then it popped right off, so I put it back in the water and tried to rev it up, but it was sputtering really bad with little to no RPM change with throttle input.Quote:
Originally Posted by MJHKnox
2006 Supra Sunsport 24v w/325 Indmar Assault EFI
100% sounds ignition related. my boat was a 2005 launch 24ssv I had the Indmar 340 but no cats. I replaced the coil myself. I was no where near anyone who carried Indmar parts. I went to the local auto part store in the town where we were and bought an ignition coil for a 1994 5.7 chevy pickup. I took the coil in with me and matched it. it should have a electrical plug on it as well. The coil I bought didn't have that mounting bracket on it so to get me by I used a bunch of zipties in order to make it the rest of the trip and it worked fine. when I got home I ordered a bracket off amazon that worked. I also ended up putting a brand new full distributor and plugs and wires in the boat as well. but after I changed that ignition coil I had no problems after that. my boat did exactly the same thing it would turn over and not fire but when I locked the throttle out to "pump" the throttle as I would turn it over it would eventually fire up and sound like it was running on 5 cylinders, it would sputter and eventually clear up. new ignition coil and all was good in the world. hope that helps.
Thanks for the advice! I just replaced my fuel filter and the throttle position sensor ($50 part). Fingers crossed that works. Odd thing was that my TPS is off a mid 2000s 5.3L silverado, even thou the engine in the boat is the 5.7L. I will brining the coil with me to the part store to make sure it is correct.
TPS Part # AC Delco 19259452
Attachment 19627
2007 Supra Launch 22SSV 340hp Indimar
Exact same issue several years ago on a carbureted 351. I finally found the problem to be fuel related. Fuel with ethanol will vaporize at a lower temp than without ethanol ... if you know you have a good carburetor and ignition setup, then you have to look at what has changed and it was the fuel. After running the motor and shutting it down, the temp goes up and the fuel vaporizes. To resolve this, I removed the 1" cast iron carb spacer and replaced it with a phenolic one to isolate some of the heat from the motor. I also insulated the fuel line between the pump and carb. This resolved the problem ... completely. It's also a good practice to prop open the engine cover on direct drive models between sessions, when convenient.
One thing to be aware of is that the factory cast iron intake has an opening for exhaust gas recirculation that gets blocked by the cast iron carb spacer. The phenolic spacer will burn through after a few seasons ... found this out the hard way. Finally I ended up replacing the intake with a NON-EGR Edelbrock Performer so the phenolic spacer is no longer prone to melting which will result in a huge vacuum leak!
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2007 Supra 22SSV 340hp Indmar
Hello, I would like to thank every one's reponse to my issue, I think that the fuel is heated up and won't reach the injector as fuel only vapor.
Now I turn on the blower and open the hood and let it run for a bit before shutting it off to let it cool down.
So far it seems to work.
Thankx
Michael
Thanks for letting us know what you found. So many posts where people ask for help,find the fix for their boat and never say what they found.Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeyp
I use a prop rod to vent the motor box if the boat is sitting idle for very long between sessions with no one in it. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5be12b00e8.jpg
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Thanks for the advice! free fire for pc jiofi.local.html