'92 Comp Wake Plate

Hey Guys,

I've been running my '92 comp with the wake plate at the previous owner's setting - I doubt it's ever been moved from the factory setting. There's a bit of a rooster tail which I hate skiing over. Has anybody had any luck reducing the size of the rooster tail by adjusting the wake plate?

Probably just an interesting coincidence, but the rooster tail is just behind where the 'wakes' from my pitot tubes meet.

I think I'll start making some adjustments this week. I'll likely try lowering the plate slightly to lift the stern.

Thoughts?

-Adam

You shouldn't move it more than 1/2'' up or down . Up will allow the stern of the boat to sink lower and make a larger wake. Down will raise the stern and flatten out the wake.

It might help to have more information on speed and rope distance, e.g. 32 at 22 off, etc. on my Comp the rooster tail is not a factor. It's there but does not affect crossing the wake. I have a factory plate set at the lowest. It's basically flush with the bottom. A little over inch of threads between turn locks. You also might want to try skiing with 1/4 tank of gas. Anything to lighten the back of the boat. Hah! The thought occurs to me that this is probably the first time some has said "lighten the back of the boat" on the Forum!

Back to thread. I'm thinking of converting to an electic hinged wake plate in order to take advantage of the versatile nature of the Comp. But in order to get the full range of travel and accomodate actuator length, need to use a little longer wake plate. Still talking it over with mechanic and Lenco. Will let you know.

By making the plate larger the main difference will be how twitchy the plate will become when adjusting. I would look into finding an actuator which will only move the plate an inch at most using the factory size plate. You could always use a larger one and trim it down so the surface areas are identical.

Thanks, Daff. My mechanic says the same thing. In order to have it raised for things like surfing and boarding, need more room. Shortest actuators don't work because mounts too low on transome. Retracted position is less than with manual plate. Longer plate will allow more upward movement, but now youre talking about a longer plate. The surface area may negate the travel. Another option is to machine the plate so that the extend length is only for actuator mounts, "arms" if you will. Saw that in another thread. Yet another option is to do nothing. Looks like what Im getting is the luxury of not getting wet to change the plate. Have not found need to chage it much underway. Maybe if I had it, and could experiment with wake shapes that would change.

Two things, what if you were to move the mounts out on the transom a little to get you more travel? Have them come in at an angle and allow the mount to trim tab to rotate? That might allow you to use a smaller trim tab and still get the ability to adjust it without getting wet. The other advise is instead of a wide plate like is currently on there, go longer and keep the surface area as close to original as possible.

After talking with my mechanic amd Lenco, I am thinking about a slightly longer wakeplate, but one that is split in two. Since the hull is "prepped" for two actuators (replacing manual adjusters) I will split the plate. The concept is to independently adjust the plates in an effort to both adjust the boat plane and balance it. Understand that outboard trim tabs work better, but given the plate is slightly oversized and the Comp is not wide, Lenco thinks it may work. If it doesnt, the machine shop will make it a one piece and I'll control both actuators with one switch.