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Just thought I would share this link from the Moomba chat rooms. It took me awhile to find it, but it one of the best posts I have found regarding winterizing an Indmar engine. Really helped me out a lot since I had never winterized my engine myself until this year.
Stongly recommend checking this out if you have any questions about winterizing.
http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/showthread.php?t=6925
So I think that I am going to winterize my boat myslef. My plan was to not do it all because to boat is in a heated garage but I would feel better and not have to worry if I did it. This procedure is great but it doesn't talk about the heater. My boat has one and I was wondering if anybody had any input on how to winterize that too. Obviously pictures would be great but if nobody has any handy then just instructions would be awesome. Thanks for any input.
If you are draining everything, and not sucking up RV antifreeze, you can just take off the hoses that lead from and return to the engine. Use a wet rag to make a seal around the hose going to the heater and use an air compressor to blow it out. The water will run out the return hose into the bilge. That is what the dealers do up here in WA where it gets below zero. If you suck RV antifreeze into the whole system then you need to remove the thermostat and just run it. Removing the thermostat is pretty simple, and then it is garanteed to get the antifreeze to the heater. I am sure there are other ways to do it, but these are probably the most simple.Quote:
Originally Posted by TayTay
if you don't have a compressor try a shop vac, you can use it to blow out your v drive as well as the plugs are a bitch to get them off the first time, and nothing comes out if you have already removed both hoses and blow or suck vac it.
So I followed the instructions and everything went great. I figured out the heater portion too so if anybody has any questions about that, it was really easy, except getting the tubing off the engine. Those tubes are a pain to get off when they are cold! spent 30 min on one tube. I felt like I broke my hand taking one of the spark plugs out, those babies go from really tight to finger loose pretty darn quick, lol. All in all though, a great experiance and now some piece of mind for the winter. Thanks for everyone's input.
More new members we are really poppin lately! Welcome! Picssssss!
Interesting post dude....discussion are always helpful in one way or the other. Thanks for giving out information. It’s really nice and mean full.
So now that the cold weather is gone and I am hooking all the hoses back up should the threads on the drain plugs be coated or wraped with something before installing ?
Nice post from the Moomba site. Sometimes I think these sites should be combined. I think we would get a lot more out of having both sites combined.
Oh no, oh no! Not this thread yet!!!!
/runs to the lake
***NOTE*** I am not trying to plagerize on CAB13367.
I copied the Winterization procedure that CAB13367 made into MS Word format for myself. I added the heater winterization process and added a checklist for materials in the front.
***All credit goes to CAB13367 for an excellent procedure document****
It would be great if anyone has constructive criticism.
Please use this as you will.
Please download from this link OR maybe a moderator will make the .docx file available on this website.
https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B_r...ut=list&num=50
I winterized my 21v last year, first time ever, with the help of my dad and now I need to get it ready for the water. I am assuming there is no real process to unwinterize it other than to do the opposite of what i did to winterize it. I obviously will check my manuals for steps and reconnect all my hoses and lines, but wanted to check with my fellow supra owners to see if there's anything special I need to do or be on the lookout for?
Also, thanks for that doc. Ill use it this year.
Yep just do the reverse, personally I reconnect everything after winterizing so all I have to do is hook up the batteries in the spring. I will however change my plugs and my fuel filter this year after I have run thru my old tank of gasQuote:
Originally Posted by cigars n scotch
Very nice job! Can you come to Northern California at the end of the Season and winterize my boat?
****Personal Rant ****
To whoever thinks that the Supra and Moomba forums should be combined: Yeah occasionally the moomba forums will have a good post however they have a different crowd. I'm not saying that they suck or anything its just some of the posts over there don't make sense. I follow the Supra list because I own a Supra, I follow MC's TeamTalk because they normally have some good stuff over there and I know some of the guys over there. But I rarely glance at the Moomba pages.
I just get annoyed by some of the people over there considering that probably half the users over there don't own a Moomba. Theres a couple Nautique and yes even some Supra owners over there. For those reasons I agree with them being separate.
For everyone with questions about your heaters and engines. Most manufactures state to fill the cooling system with antifreeze during cold climate storage. This does two things, keeps everything moist in the winter months and also contacts ant water tgat may be left in low spots in the block, heads, headers and heaters and keeps it from freezing. Since regular antifreeze is TOXIC I recommend using a RV winterizing antifreeze such as Camo it Walmart brand. Take the thermostat out and pump the antifreeze into the engine until you see it coming out of the exhaust. Usually a good sign that you got everything full. Try an antifreeze such as this.
http://m.acehardware.com//product/in...uctId=10753645
And remember, support your local small business!
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Something else to keep in mind... when you've finished all other winterization, spray down your block with some WD40. It helps keep from forming any surface rust.
To each his own, but FWIW, about 20 years ago WD40 disappeared from the regular stock in the hangar (I was an avionics tech for Canadian Airlines in those days). I was told, but never verified for myself, that WD40 has a corrosive aspect to it, and since then I've never sprayed the stuff on anything I valued. I truly do not know the facts, but I figure if it's no good around air planes, I'll keep it away from my boat. Everything we used was specified for the job to be done. I would advise the use of a corrosion inhibitor. In my case, my motor has a nice thin layer of oily grime on it that does the same job;) YMMV
I thought I'd do a quick google and found this http://www.thehulltruth.com/sportfis...-sprays.html#b
Interestingly, the CRC is the stuff we used, and it's a top performer in the test. Also of note, Boesheild T9 which was (rather ironically) made by Boeing, was also removed from use in our hangar for purportedly similar reasons as WD40.
Really? That's the first I've ever heard of that. Off to google to see what I can find. I use WD-40 for everything. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by chris young
Been spraying down entire drive train every year with no rust yet!Quote:
Originally Posted by haugy
Looks like new!
Will be interested in what others have to say or what haugy discovers after his search!
Very good post I would add a couple things.
First I like to run the engine for a couple mins after the oil change to circulate the fresh oil. l would be careful with the fogging oil if you have a catalytic converter. I don't like dumping all that oil on the cat. The Fram orange oil filter is the worst on the market if you are going to use Fram get the higher end silver or gold not the orange ones. I never store my boats dry there is no way to know for sure you got all the water out. If there is a pocket of water trapped somewhere it can freeze and cause damage. Storing dry also allows the gaskets and seals to dry out and adds to the formation of rust and scale in the cooling system. Plus it only adds about 5 mins to the job to add anti freeze. Just take the hose going from the thermostat housing to the raw water pump off at the RWP turn it up stick a funnel in it and pour in the RV antifreeze until it comes out the exhaust. If you have a heater remove both hoses from the engine. I like to use a wet vac to suck the water out be careful with compressed air too much pressure can damage the heater core. After the water is removed add a funnel to one hose and pour in anti freeze until it comes out the other hose then reconnect them. I do this first before I put it in the engine. I also change the trans fluid . Here is the procedure from the PCM manual for ford direct drives the V drives are similar with a few more steps.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps0a0949a1.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...psac2d3266.jpg
Just curious do the instructions have any modifications with boats from '10 & on? Seeing how the original moomba thread was started in '08 I could imagine some changes have been made to the engines... Or as long as the you're working on the indmar engines they should be close enough? I have an '11 242, with the 340 as why I'm curious. Thanks.
fog thru the spark plugs as you prob have CATs
Thanks docdrs. I do have the cats, but good to know that's all I need.
This was a great thread, ruined by photobucket. I made a video of the process. https://youtu.be/TKCIjKWyiPA
Still such a great post and used that write up just last night as it was my last day of the year.
Thanks for posting
New to the forum, hello everyone