'92 Comp Questions

Hey Guys,

A few questions:

1) Is it possible to change the low voltage alarm setting on a '92 Comp? Mine alarms when I have the stereo turned up with the engine running, it will also alarm for a few minutes after the engine is started. It's very annoying. The alarm setting is currently ~13 V. As far as I can tell, the battery is in good shape.

2) How well is temperature controlled by the thermostat? My comp runs around 160F when running on plane, but if I slow to an idle, it drops off scale low (<120F) and never recovers. Would this be caused by a stuck thermostat? What are the consequences of running at such a low temperature?

Thanks for your input!

Adam

1: There should be a way to adjust the alarm setting in the alarm panel. Granted I'm running an older boat and an older setup but I was able to adjust when the "idiot light" comes on in my boat. Check the control board that runs your alarm lights/buzzer.

2: Bet your gauge or sending unit are funky. The temp usually decreases on my boat when throttle is increased due to increased flow of cooler water through the engine and it increases slightly at idle as I idle through the numerous no wake zones here. Weird that it cools more at idle than when running.

1: Thanks for the info!

2: I don't think that it's necessarily cooling more. Just that it's a different ratio of heat removal vs. heat production at idle than 2 500 rpm.

I'll give you the fact that your engine is most likely producing less heat at idle, but it's also circulating less water at idle too. The circulation of water is tied into engine speed. The faster the engine runs, the more water it circulates to cool the additional heat.

Watch an engine rev through an IR camera sometime. Any Army here? When it revving the heat goes way up. How much engine does the lake water go through before it hits the thermostat and sensor?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

The idiot box is located behind the left side switch panel. It is sealed up, I do imagine that there are trim pots inside of it though... Best advice is NOT to adjust but rather update the wiring a bit. Add in some grounds and an extra positive feed to the fuse panel by running 10 AWG from the fuse panel right to the battery on the other side of the wall. It make a huge difference. Brighter lights, gauges showing proper readings, etc

And for the temp, I'm a bit worried you might have the wrong temp sender... Or possibly, you could have no thermostat! My uncle runs Master craft with out a t-stat and at idle it never goes above the gauge's low of 120* but when up and cruising/skiing and what not it will come up to around 140*

I opened up my thermostat housing a few weeks ago and this is what I Found.

Attachment 14965

My temperature control is rock steady after removing that old piece of rubber & replacing the thermostat. For those that are going to ask, it's not from my current impeller. Oh the surprises you find on used boats.