Supra Saltare in France

[Sdc77]

On the PCM repair PDF, I notice that my carb LIST-80262 should have #722 jets. I have #743, That's why I run too rich. Assuming it's Holley 122-722 reference I need ?

[haugy]

What kind of carb are you running Holley? 4160? The more you can give me, the more I can help.

[Sdc77]

HOLLEY 4160 with LIST number 80262
Forget about the jets, I just placed an order at Jeg's for the Steering wheel + hub, jets (a box kit), spark plugs, distributor cap, oil filter. I should get it next week.

[Sdc77]

Hey guys,
My engine start to run very bad, instable idle, missing firing cylinder (1 or 2 missing) even at high RPM. It sounds to me a ignition Problem.
I read on the cadunkle missfiring post that it can come from almost every part of the ignition system. I will start with spark plugs, distributor cap and wires, and if it still missfire, I will change the rotor, coil, and probably the alternator.

Is anybody has a vacuum timing on the 454 ? On mine, no any hose, seems to be mecanicaly or electronicaly controled.

I ask, because I will think about the chinese ignition (I don't care about where it has been made, marine or not) http://www.kmjent.com/cart/product.p...0164763&page=1
But it's vacuum timing thing.
I ask also because I really want this 454 to burn less fuel. I read about Q-jet carb better fuel economy than other 4 barrel carbs, like my 4160. And, finally, I hate the secondary part of the 4160 non tunable.
So I will also think about an used Q-jet (with vacuum hose for the ignition ?), but witch model will fit my intake manifold without mods or adaptation plate ?

[cadunkle]

Do not run a vacuum advance on a marine engine. The purpose of vacuum advance in a car is to add timing under light load cruise conditions to increase MPG. In a boat this is not applicable as it is always under the same type of heavy load, and there essentially is no light load cruise condition. Adding vacuum advance may result in detonation which will shatter rings, crack pistons, etc. You could always just cap it off, but if it's not marine it's not a sealed distributor and will rust the inside (advance and trigger mechanism) a lot faster than a sealed marine unit made of better materials than automotive.

While you're going through the ignition, make sure the mechanical advance is advancing smoothly. There are weights and springs under the points plate you may have to clean and lubricate the pivot points. If you still have points in the distributor clean and re-gap them. Not sure on the spec for point gap but somewhere around .016" - .018" would be typical.

As for other carbs... Personally I do not like Quadrajets. They are quite complex to rebuild and tune. They also do not make as much power as a Holley. Unless you really know carbs in and out, don't get a Quadrajet as it's be tedious to tune for your application. I would recommend a Holley 4150, as they have a metering block on the secondary side (can tune with jets instead of metering plate). A 750 CFM vacuum secondary would work well for your use and allow tuning of secondary jetting. Your fuel savings from running slightly leaner on the secondary side, assuming it will even take leaner secondary jetting without stumbling or surging, would likely never pay for the carb... So I would wait until your carb is worn out to replace it. Looking on Summit I don't see any 4150 marine carbs with vacuum secondaries... So in that case I would say a 750 CFM double pumper would be fine (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-0-80537). Personally all my vehicles have big blocks and 750-850 CFM Holley double pumpers. Double pumper does not mean high fuel consumption unless you drive it that way (always into the secondaries) and on a mild engine you can probably run a 30cc accelerator pump on both sides.

[Sdc77]

Thanks cadunkle for all that precisions !
I will stay with my electronic ignition. I fixed it, 3 spark plug wire connectors were dead (rust inside, and bad connection to the top of spark plugs). It seems to not be the factory ignition system, as it's writen "Mercuriser" on it.
Here are pics :

IMG_1809.JPGIMG_1811.jpg

Then you can see my spark plugs are wet black. So too rich ?

IMG_1812.JPG

I will start with 72 or 71 jets as soon as I receive it (72 says the manual).

Thanks for your lights on carbs.
What do you think about converting my 4160 into a 4150 ? with that part :

http://www.holley.com/34-6.asp

Also placed an order for leds : RGB leds with controler inside the boat, and replacement leds for gauges, white back light and front green/red light.
Will post photos of all that stuff.

[Sdc77]

Hey Guys,
I just started working on the RGB interior Leds. I bought a 50cm RGB SMD 5050 ribon Led ($15). I then cut it every 10cm, so I get a 3 led module. I then cut 4 pieces of black plastic (from a handle box), drill 3 holes ø7mm spaced of 1.5cm each, and glued Leds modules. I have a RGB 12v/12v controler with a remote ($15). I just need to cut 4G wire and weld connectors to it, and put my plastic pieces in place of the factory lights under cup holders. Here are pictures :

[Sdc77]

[TitanTn]

Very interesting. I looking forward to seeing these in place and activated.

[sybrmike]

Ditto - curious how they will throw the light & look forward to seeing them in action. I really enjoy the RGB's I installed, but as expected I have a hard time finding enough excuses to be out at night to take advantage. What type of controller are you using? I used a cheap controller with remote (not for outdoor use), but it's tucked up under the helm so should stay relatively dry. If you haven't yet wired power to the controller, I'd suggest running the power through a dash switch & then to the controller. I was pleasantly surprised to find that my cheap controller "remembered" the last setting at power off, so turning them on and off just takes the flip of a switch without fumbling for a remote. The remote is only used to change modes (select color, flash, fade, beat to music, etc.).