Page 1 of 6 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 53
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Collegedale, TN
    Posts
    1,903

    Default Repairing a older style rudder port

    My boat was taking on water this past summer and I came to the conclusion that it had to be the rudder. After doing some initial research, I discovered that there are primarily two different types of rudder ports (the part that isn't the rudder or tiller arm). One has rope packing like the prop shaft, and the other has a grease zerk fitting and o-rings. Mine has the grease zerk.

    So after pulling mine out of the boat (pics to follow), I found two grease seals and some kind of rubber sock which was completely torn and obviously the reason why the port was leaking. So I called the ever faithful Inboard Discount Marine and asked for a rebuild kit. Guess what. There isn't one. The type of port that I have was used in the mid- to late- 80's before being switched out to the type that had o-rings. The company is out of business and there is no where to get the rubber sock.

    So I took the port and rudder into Ace Hardware and sat on the floor with boxes of o-rings until I found a combination that would work. Finding new grease seals was not easy either. I could not find them at any parts store, and didn't have luck initially on a Google search. Eventually I contacted the manufacturer and found a place to buy them online.

    I unfortunately didn't take a lot of pics while the port was apart, but I'll try to illustrate what I did with the pics below.

    Removal:
    Very straight-forward. Remove the bolt holding the tiller arm to the top of the rudder. There should also be a cotter pin in the top of the rudder, but mine was missing. The bolt slide through a small cut-out in the side of the rudder post which is a key element to keeping the rudder in the boat. Once you pull the bolt out, your rudder is likely to drop down. It may take a little persuasion, but don't get too aggressive with a hammer as you could mushroom the rudder post and then it wouldn't slide out.

    Once the rudder is out, the port is removed with the four main bolts. It's very helpful to have some help so one guy can be underneath while one is in the boat.


    So here's the anatomy of my rudder port.


    Grease seal 2 sits on a lip inside the port. The direction it sits is important because it will allow grease to go down the rudder post, but it resists letting grease (and water) back up. Grease seal 1 sits the same direction and attempts to keep grease inside the port.

    Here's an image of the old seals I pulled out. They are shown top side up. This is the direction they're installed.


    Here is where you can find replacement grease seals: http://www.bestpartsonline.com/servl...37.95-X/Detail

    The rubber sock had a fat edge that set within a recessed lip at the bottom of the port. It was approximately 3 inches long and went to the bottom of seal 2. Here is a pic of what's left of the sock.



    And here's an image of generic rudder port so I can show you where the recessed lip is that holds the sock in place. The recessed lip is on the inside.


    Since I can only post four pics at a time, I'll continue in another post.
    Last edited by TitanTn; 05-20-2021 at 07:36 AM.

    1986 Saltare
    Restoration link: http://supraboats.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=7839

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Collegedale, TN
    Posts
    1,903

    Default

    So my simple solution was to not use a sock (can't find one anyway), but to instead replace it with an o-ring. As I said before, I sat in the middle of the aisle at ACE Hardware for quite a while to find the best fit.

    Here's the o-ring.


    I'm very comfortable that the new o-ring will keep water out as the fit seems to be just right. The recessed lip in the port is deep enough to hold the o-ring in place.

    Installation:
    I put the new o-ring in place, and after purchasing all new bolts, installed the port (with the help of friend) with 3M 4200 sealant. I then greased the inside of the port and the rudder post, drove seal 2 into place with a socket, and put the rudder back into place. Then set grease seal 1, the c-clip (Which mine was missing also. I found a fit at ACE.), put the tiller arm back on with the keyway, inserted the bolt and tightened everything down.

    Pump full of grease and it's done!

    My only alternative would have been to purchase a new rudder assembly from Inboard Discount Marine for $400. I'm very pleased that I was able to find the right parts to rebuild this one and wanted to share the information with my Supra family. I had done some searching in advance of this project and couldn't many threads on rudder rebuilds, so I hope this is helpful to someone.

    Last edited by TitanTn; 05-20-2021 at 07:37 AM.

    1986 Saltare
    Restoration link: http://supraboats.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=7839

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    1,378

    Default

    Thanks for the info. In need to service the rudder in my Saltare but unfortunately it's not that type. It's a standard rope packing seal. The rudder has a lot of side play in it and leaks. I assume this is from the material of the port itself being worn. I am planning on replacing it with that $400 unit from skidim as I assume there are no replaceable bushings in the rudder port that would wear and allow slop in the assembly.

    When you rmeoved the rudder port... How did you do it? Just unbolt the 4 bolts and whack it? Cut at the sealant with a razor first? Pry it off the hull? Want to avoid screwing anything up when I get to replacing it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    302

    Default

    Here are some pictures of the OME rudder box from my 86 compIMG_1222.JPGIMG_1223.JPGIMG_1224.JPGIMG_1225.JPG

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Collegedale, TN
    Posts
    1,903

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cadunkle View Post
    When you rmeoved the rudder port... How did you do it? Just unbolt the 4 bolts and whack it? Cut at the sealant with a razor first? Pry it off the hull? Want to avoid screwing anything up when I get to replacing it.
    I don't know that whacking anything will get it out. Once the bolts are removed the port is loose. The plate on the bottom of the boat is slightly pressed on the bottom of the port and requires a little prying. Nothing major. Whatever sealant was used in my before was not holding it in place. That's why I put mine back with 4200 and not 5200. If I ever have to replace that o-ring again, I don't want the sealant pulling gelcoat or fiberglass off!

    1986 Saltare
    Restoration link: http://supraboats.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=7839

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Collegedale, TN
    Posts
    1,903

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Hagman View Post
    Here are some pictures of the OME rudder box from my 86 comp
    Yep. That's look just like mine.

    1986 Saltare
    Restoration link: http://supraboats.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=7839

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    2,158

    Default

    great write-up.

    this is one of the things i didn't do while it was apart and i've got a leak too.

    does the port have to be removed to change out the innards?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Collegedale, TN
    Posts
    1,903

    Default

    Thanks Salty. No, the port does not have to be removed.

    1986 Saltare
    Restoration link: http://supraboats.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=7839

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    499

    Default

    this is perfect iwas needing this info!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    fort worth , tx
    Posts
    1,171

    Default

    Thank you so much for this bud , i was just about to start looking and seals for mine .. I had no idea it has a sock seal ... Deff going back with you idea and must say it (makes since) .... Thanks again , -lively-
    Quote Originally Posted by titantn View Post
    my boat was taking on water this past summer and i came to the conclusion that it had to be the rudder. After doing some initial research, i discovered that there are primarily two different types of rudder ports (the part that isn't the rudder or tiller arm). One has rope packing like the prop shaft, and the other has a grease zerk fitting and o-rings. Mine has the grease zerk.

    So after pulling mine out of the boat (pics to follow), i found two grease seals and some kind of rubber sock which was completely torn and obviously the reason why the port was leaking. So i called the ever faithful inboard discount marine and asked for a rebuild kit. Guess what. There isn't one. The type of port that i have was used in the mid- to late- 80's before being switched out to the type that had o-rings. The company is out of business and there is no where to get the rubber sock.

    So i took the port and rudder into ace hardware and sat on the floor with boxes of o-rings until i found a combination that would work. Finding new grease seals was not easy either. I could not find them at any parts store, and didn't have luck initially on a google search. Eventually i contacted the manufacturer and found a place to buy them online.

    I unfortunately didn't take a lot of pics while the port was apart, but i'll try to illustrate what i did with the pics below.

    removal:
    very straight-forward. Remove the bolt holding the tiller arm to the top of the rudder. There should also be a cotter pin in the top of the rudder, but mine was missing. The bolt slide through a small cut-out in the side of the rudder post which is a key element to keeping the rudder in the boat. Once you pull the bolt out, your rudder is likely to drop down. It may take a little persuasion, but don't get too aggressive with a hammer as you could mushroom the rudder post and then it wouldn't slide out.

    Once the rudder is out, the port is removed with the four main bolts. It's very helpful to have some help so one guy can be underneath while one is in the boat.


    So here's the anatomy of my rudder port.


    grease seal 2 sits on a lip inside the port. The direction it sits is important because it will allow grease to go down the rudder post, but it resists letting grease (and water) back up. Grease seal 1 sits the same direction and attempts to keep grease inside the port.

    Here's an image of the old seals i pulled out. They are shown top side up. This is the direction they're installed.


    here is where you can find replacement grease seals: http://www.bestpartsonline.com/servl...37.95-x/detail

    the rubber sock had a fat edge that set within a recessed lip at the bottom of the port. It was approximately 3 inches long and went to the bottom of seal 2. Here is a pic of what's left of the sock.



    and here's an image of generic rudder port so i can show you where the recessed lip is that holds the sock in place. The recessed lip is on the inside.


    since i can only post four pics at a time, i'll continue in another post.

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •