Speakers pop when wakeplate is used

[WakeProdigy]

DKG,

Thanks for the suggestions! I think that using a different set of patch cables draped across the boat is a good method. I'll probably try it out. I agree that SC should foot the bill if I end up having to change to higher quality cables, I mean after the money I've dropped on the boat $100 dollars for a new set seems like nothing. I'll let you know what I find out.

Tom

[Diggs]

do we have a resolve to this yet?
Jon - you are a dealer right? Did this work for sure, cause my dealer read these and said they did all this and it still does it. They did some dampening on it to the point it is hard to tell, but the underlying problem is still there.

[WakeProdigy]

I haven't have a chance to do the re-wire yet, but hopefully it will work. I had a friend who works at Best Buy pick up some nice Fosgate patch cables for cheap. Hopefully this will fix the problem we'll see.

[WakeProdigy]

I did the rewire with some quality patch cables from Rockford Fosgate. All I have to say is that was a waste of time, because the pop is still there. I now believe that the noise is being picked up in some way by the head unit. When I disconnect the patch cables from the rear of the head unit and use the trim there is no "pop" picked up by the patch cables and hence the noise isn't amplified. When the cables are plugged in to the head unit the noise is present. I'm about ready to give up on this problem, and just deal with the "pop" in my speakers. This sucks.

[DKJBama92Mariah]

That sux bro. Dont give up though, and dont think that it was a complete waste of time; at least you know you'll have a clean signal for the amp except for the pop. You've also learned the valuable lesson that you should always test to see if something is the problem before taking the time and expense on an unsure solution. That was the purpose of my long and drawn out previous posts.

Look on the bright side, you've at least isolated the source somewhat now, you just have to find the cause. If you havent completely given up, run a set a of temporary ground and power wires directly from the battery to the amp. Also try disconnecting the antenna lead from the amp. Give it a shot. A little trial and error, and we'll get this thing pegged.

To everyone: Enjoy your 4th of July, and dont forget the brave soldiers that gave their lives to give us a country so great, that we consider a pop in our speakers to be a major problem.

Cheers,
DKJ

[WakeProdigy]

Well, I swapped out the stock kenwood deck with another deck I had lying around. This seemed to fix the problem. The other head unit had patch cable jacks on the back of the head unit, and when the patch cables were plugged in caused them to sit right against the steering mechanism. The new one has the patch cable connections coming out of the back of the head unit in wires (similiar to the subwoofer out on the stock deck). This allowed me to route the wires away from the steering hardware and the noise is much better now.

[Diggs]

I checked with my dealer to find out what they did to "minnimize" the problem. To be honest you can't really hear the pop anymore, but it is just a bandaid until Skier's Choice can resolve. Here is what they did:
put a polarized capaciter on the power
wire to
the solenoid of the wakeplate switch. Not sure what size it was

Hope this helps you guys and if you have other suggestions, please pass along

[Supra-Steve]

Add me to this list of popping tower speakers when adjusting the wakeplate. It technically doesn't popwhile the plate is adjusting, it pops when i let off the plate switch/handle.

[ScottnAz]

Super old thread, but I want to make sure everyone knows about this fix, I am so thankful for finding it.

https://forum.supraboats.com/showthread.php?t=3835

Finally fed up with my tower speakers popping with wakeplate movements, I decided to do something about it.

I picked up (2) capacitors, part #272-1044, from Radio Shack. (1) for the "up", and (1) for the "down" wakeplate movements. http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103625



I then used a wire tap to connect to the blue and green wires running from the trim control under the dash. These capacitors are polarized, so be sure to find the negative side of the cap and wire it to the grounding bar located under the dash.



Speaker pop gone, and it took about 15 minutes and $5

[SZEH]

ScottnAz,

I bought the two capacitors the other day, but I'm a little confused with how to attach these to the wake plate wires. Here are my questions.

1. What type of wire tap did you use and do you connect the positive wire off the capacitor directly to the wire tap and then to the wake plate wire?

2.For the ground wire off the capacitor do you solder a wire onto the capacitor negative wire then connect that wire to the ground under the dash?

Sounds like an easy fix, but just want to be sure I do this right.

Thanks,

Scott