Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 73

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Edmond, OK
    Posts
    2,508

    Default Stripe removal, wetsand, etc...

    Well I started with the strip removal last night. I only worked on it for about 20-30 minutes. I thought we had a good heat gun at my work here in OKC, but the only one we have is at our place in Tulsa. The only one I have at home is smaller for crafts type stuff. I tried that and it wasn't working very well, so I experimented with just the 3M eraser wheel. It seems to do fairly well on its own, but does make a mess. Right now I'm thinking I will continue with just the wheel, but we'll see. I started in the front where the stripes areen't as wide so I may change my mind when I get to the back. I like how the wheel works. Pics to come.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Kingston, ON
    Posts
    356

    Default

    I used a new box cutter, move the blade all the way out and started to peel it from the top 1/4 - 1/2 inch a time. Found it was faster and cleaner than the wheel.where a glove though on the hand your pressing/ holding on to the blade with... trust me it helps.
    Have I started a trend?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Edmond, OK
    Posts
    2,508

    Default

    Here are a few pictures...two showing the stripe removed and one showing one of the areas in the back I still see some haze from the first time. It may be hard to see in the picture, but some of you might see it.






  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Jonesboro IN
    Posts
    391

    Default

    Geting the lines to fade is alot of work.

    Wet sanding will not even make a mark in it.
    Mine is the same color as yours I ended up using a da with 150grit on it to get the color back.
    Im still working on geting it the scuffs from that out.

    90 bravura 351 1.23/1pmc40 Pefectpass stargazer wake
    You only need two tools wd-40 and duck tape
    If it should move and doesn't wd40
    If it moves and shouldent duck tape

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    2,164

    Default

    i must have removed the stripes on mine maybe 8 or 10 years ago. i can still see their shadows. the wave is the worst.

    good luck okie, she's looking better already.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Edmond, OK
    Posts
    2,508

    Default

    I'm not real concerned about making the difference dissappear. I'll try, but that isn't my objective. If I have ghost stripes, that won't bother me, and I may end up putting something back on, but go with a solid stripe or something,

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    65

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 86 century View Post
    Geting the lines to fade is alot of work.

    Wet sanding will not even make a mark in it.
    Mine is the same color as yours I ended up using a da with 150grit on it to get the color back.
    Im still working on geting it the scuffs from that out.
    I am a custom automotive painter and just wet sanded my boat to be restriped, the advice I can offer you is gel coat is like concrete compared to clear coat so you have to be aggressive. Start with 320 or 400 dry then move to a 600 dry then 600 wet, 800 dry and then wet etc etc with 1000, 1500 and finish at 2000. Use a heavy duty compound not fine or medium. make sure after sanding with 400 theres no shine anywhere after wiping it down. Heres some pics of it after the wet sand and rub most before the new stripes030.jpg031.jpgSAM_1214.jpgSAM_1211.jpg043.jpg
    Last edited by jshepp122; 05-26-2012 at 12:26 PM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Nashville
    Posts
    2,127

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jshepp122 View Post
    Start with 320 or 400 dry then move to a 600 dry then 600 wet, 800 dry and then wet etc etc with 1000, 1500 and finish at 2000. Use a heavy duty compound not fine or medium. make sure after sanding with 400 theres no shine anywhere after wiping it down. Heres some pics of it after the wet sand and rub most before the new stripes


    FOR THE LOVE OF GOD........DO NOT DO THIS TO YOUR BOAT!!!!!!!!!! ESPECIALLY DRY!

    Going down to anything under 600 grit is for fixing damaged areas on your gelcoat. Not polishing it. You will take too much off. Oxidation is not that thick, just very hard. The only reason you would need to go that aggressive is to remove major damage scratches. And make sure it is wet, not dry.

    Please, anyone reading this, start with 600 grit at the most! Most boats only need 1000 grit +, and some patience. I've polished up some really bad boats, and have never gone lower than 600 grit.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Nashville
    Posts
    2,127

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jshepp122 View Post
    I am a custom automotive painter
    Last time I checked automotive paint and Gelcoat are like fire and ice. Treat them completely different. Congrats on doing this for 15 years. Many of has have been doing these boats for longer.

    To those who read it. Your boat does not need that much grit. The risk for a mistake multiplies drastically. With a lighter grit, if you do make any mistakes, they won't be as noticeable. You make a mistake with 320 grit, and you can't go back.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    1

    Default Stripe removal wets

    3m products makes a vinyl stripe removal wheel ,looks like the material a pencil eraser is made of you chuck up in a drill,it will remove the stripe without damaging your paint

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •