Stripe removal, wetsand, etc...

[Okie Boarder]

So I started wet sanding in a couple areas to see the results. With 1000 grit, I'm not seeing much change in the haze that I've been seeing. 1000 grit is what I used before and I'm thinking maybe I need to be more aggressive. I don't think pictures will show it well enough, but I'll tell you it is really easy to see the haze next to where the stripes were and that is kind of the area I've focused on. Is it going to be best for me to experiment with the next aggressive grit, like 800 and see if that is enough, then go from there? At what point do you switch to dry sanding and/ or a machine?

[Okie Boarder]

Here are some pics...

[TitanTn]

I'm no expert at this, but from my experience you're not going to cut any haze issues with 1000 grit. It needs to be at least 800, and 600 isn't going to hurt the effort at all. My belief is that wet sanding creates less dust and MAY reduce the amount of scratches, but if you do a good job of buffing, there won't be any scratches anyway. So mostly it affects the type of mess you make. I tend to like the results of wet sanding just a little better. I'm working on mine right now too, and I'm wet sanding 800, 1000, buffing, polishing and seeing some good results. The haze that I'm working on is mild. I did some heavier hazed areas last year and used 600 on most, but started some areas on 400.

[sybrmike]

I agree, I had to drop down to 400 in several areas to make any progress on the black portions of mine. Others here are going even corser, but I was too chicken. There's no haze at the old strip lines anymore, but can still see a slight ridge depending on the viewing angle.

[sydneyACE]

Same here.

My boat is REALLY bad. Look for pics in my "Pride and Joy" thread. (Seach "Travis 1984 Rider")
My boat looks like a light bluish-grey, but it's actually a dark navy-blue.

I started on mine about a week ago. I tried to buff it-out first with an electric buffer w/cutting compound.
That made-it shinny, but it didn't take the fading out.

I then tried a scotch-brite on the advice from my brother. Interestingly, that worked VERY well in some areas but not others.
I did one spot on the bottom of the side (probably saw less sun, and may have even been underwater for longer), with just the scotch-brite then followed-up with a polishing compound on the buffer. It looks great!
I was think; "This isn't gonna be so bad after-all."

Then I tried in a different spot, and the scotch-brite just wouldn't take-out the fading.
Then I went to a 600 grit wet-sanding. This also worked in other areas, but was STILL not enough to take-out the fading.
So now I've resorted to a 320 grit wet-sanding, then the 600, then the cutting-compound, then the polising.

As for the difference between wet-sanding and dry. I like the wet-sanding personally. I think it helps to prevent (deep) scratching a little better. The downside is, it's not as fast as dry because you have to continually pause to rinse your paper and work area. Also, if you're not careful you can get something under your paper and end-up getting some scratches anyway.

Those of you wet-sanding with 1000/1200, have you tried just using the buffer with a cutting compound to take-out scratches from the 600/800? I haven't tried a 1000/1200, but I looks like the buffer will take-out the scratches from the 600 just fine.
I'm just curious if someone has tried it both ways and can tell a difference in the final finish.

[Salty87]

i think i see the problem. you should get better results or at least think you're getting better results from REAL BEER! lol

matched trailer looks great...wheels are still shiny too. all you did was strip them, right?

[Okie Boarder]

Thanks guys. I'm going to get some 800 and see how it does. If it isn't enough I'll go to 600. I'm not sure I will need to go more than that.

sybr...there definitely seems to be a ridge on mine too. Some of what I feel right now is some old wax, but it also seems like there is a bit of a surface level difference.

Salty...LOL! Maybe if I had more and stronger beer it would just look great like it is and I wouldn't have to do all this work...LOL! Yeah the wheels are doing great. I did that strip process and have just kept them clean and dry, plus some mothers from time to time. By the way, something interesting about the beer. OK law is 3.2% on your typical beers, which was an interesting adjustment for me coming from CA. I've grown to like the weaker, lighter beers as something I can drink in the evening or while doing projects. I still get the enjoyment of the beer without getting buzzed. Now, when Saturday rolls around and we're grilling or something, then I like to have something much more flavorful and heavy.

This is one of my recent favorites...

[sybrmike]

A glass pro told me the stripes had been protecting the gelcoat underneath & kept the original thickness intact. After 20+ years, the oxidation actually eats away at the the exposed areas - hence the ridge. It could be sanded level, but I just couldn't face more sanding.

That beverage would make for a good set of beer goggles - although definitely not needed to take your "girl" home...

[Okie Boarder]

sybr...that makes sense. I'm not sure I'm going to worry about that too much. My main thing is I want to get rid of the haze and brighten it up. If I can see the remnants of the stripe and it bugs me enough, I'll put something new in it's place.

[sydneyACE]

I have the same thing going-on with mine. I shot a few pictures the other-day, I will have to get them uploaded to see if it helps you any.

I decided I don't want to spend a TON of time removing my stripes and blending that, so I'm just doing a "halfway" job for this season.
Having said that, I did remove the old registration numbers fromt the previous owner. I saw exactly what Mike is talking-about. The vinyl lettering "preserved" the finish underneath. It actually gave me a really good reference to tell how much more I needed to do.
I can tell from your pics that my boat is WAY, WAY worse than yours so take this with a grain...
I tried 600 on mine to even the color between the bare spots and the stuff that was covered with vinyl, and it jus wouldn't quite do-it. I have since stepped-down to a 320 GASP! and that is doing the trick (then I follow that with a 600, then buffer with wool/cutting compound, then buffer with foam/polising compound). 600 might work for yours though. Either-way if you see a line and you're not happy, you CAN sand it out. When you think about it 320 is just one extra step (more than 600), and if you don't have to do the whole boat like that, then that's not too bad.

Anyway, let us know how it goes. Good luck!