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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Tacoma, Wa
    Posts
    861

    Default

    the clanking is probably the damper. When the engine runs rough the damper springs start clanking. My dad called me the other day to tell me my boat was making a metal clanking noise at idle in gear. I ordered a new damper. Got out to his place and ran it and found two of the plug wires switched causing a stumble and the damper to talk. switched them back, threw a timing light at it and all is well.
    2003 Supra Launch 22SSV
    1986 Ski Natique 2001

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    148

    Default

    Ok.. So i'm confused. I hawk eyed all of these concerns I had about these symptoms and they aren't there anymore? The smoke
    stopped.. The ticking stopped... And she ran and sounded very good. The thing in noticing is that the temp bouncing between
    180-200 (are those ranges normal?). When the boat is turned off and I restart.... The temp gauage will reader 220. The air coming out if the
    blower is hot. any advice?

    I'm going to redo the riser gaskets

    Install new impeller

    Maybe a new thermostat (any recommendations of thermo would e great)


    I'm still not taking off and too speed like I use to be able to. I'm not noticing any extra vibration from running...still
    wondering about the prop. One blade seems severely bent away from the boat.

    Any prop recommendations acme 541 vs acme 543 or any better recommendation.
    Last edited by Rusty; 07-01-2012 at 11:13 AM.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    360

    Default

    Rusty, I forgot to mention, on the upside, I had a hydro lock in one of my boats. It wasn't fatal for any of the components accept the plugs. When I pulled the plugs and pumped out all the water and put them back in again, it ran like crap. New plugs and I was off to the races. Let's hope it's that simple.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    148

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by OUI View Post
    Rusty, I forgot to mention, on the upside, I had a hydro lock in one of my boats. It wasn't fatal for any of the components accept the plugs. When I pulled the plugs and pumped out all the water and put them back in again, it ran like crap. New plugs and I was off to the races. Let's hope it's that simple.
    OUi- that would be absolutely amazing. I'm really hopeful. How do you pump out the water from plugs? Thanks again, I really appreciate your help.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    360

    Default

    You can't pump the water out of the plugs. Pumping the water/gas out of the cylinders is actually blowing the water/gas out. Pull the plugs and turn it over till you blow out all the water/gas. New plugs is the only way to go. Put while you're there do the compression check -- it'll take 2 minutes and then you know for sure if there is a value problem. Maybe do the compression check before you buy the plugs if there's a valve problem you don't waste any money on plugs.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    148

    Default

    Thanx OUI. I'll get right on that. Any idea where compression should be registering?

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    360

    Default

    About 120 to 130 would be ok. You can go down to 100 before a valve job. Look for consistency, if they're all about the same things are ok. If you see one really low then that's the bad one. If you see two right next to each other that are really low then it's a head gasket.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    360

    Default

    Make sure the engine is warm and all the plugs are pulled.

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