Adjusting the trailer for a better fit

[haugy]

Boat is in storage right now, so no pics available right now

However I've found if I back the trailer in enough to not have to crank the crap out of it, then when the boat comes forward the bow is too low and actually hits the roller at the tip of the bow or below. So I have to pull out a bit to change the angle of the boat so it will ride "up" enough to go on top of roller.

This thread covers the same issues you are having. I had the same problem with my old trailer, and I solved it by fixing the bow riser. I used to have to do the same thing with my trailer as you. I'd have to back it in just right. Enough to be able to pull it up, and still get the nose up. I used to have to power onto the trailer to get it up there. I hated doing that. And if I got a real deep ramp, it was a pain in the ass. I'd look at your bow riser. It's there to get the nose up, and to provide a good support for the nose. But not to hold the weight of the boat. That's why sometimes you have to lift the bunks as well.

[crystal waters]

Beautiful boat. Why are we just now seeing this pic? Keep them coming!

thx---had it since '92! Simply love this boat for all it offers.I am a "classic old school " when it comes to SUPRAsupra conbrio 3.jpg

[pap]

where does one get aluminum or stainless steel spacers for this job? I would have no idea where to get something like that? Also, what are the chances that I back out the lag bolts (I assume that's what they are) and find rot in the wood? I assume it's wood under the carpet.

I don't think I'm up to the bolt from the top idea because I'd have to completely disassemble the whole thing including carpet and most likely I'll have to do this at the lake since obviously the boat can't be on the trailer at the time

I must say I'm not at ALL impressed with either boat mate or Supra for providing a trailer for this very expensive boat that doesn't work correctly.

[supraaddict]

^^ I had my spacers made at a machine shop. They are very easy to make. Just an aluminum block, mine is 1" thick with two holes in it. Basically it is the exact same size as the trailers Bunk mounts. I made a template out of cardboard and had the holes drilled just a little bit oversize for some wiggle room when mounting them under the bunks.

As far as installation goes, I raised mine at the lake with the boat off the trailer. Just took a drill with a socket adapter and the correct size socket as well as a ratchet. I just took the old lag bolts out, put the new spacers under the bunks and started the new lag bolts with a drill until I got close to the mount and tightened the rest of the way with the ratchet making sure not to strip them out.

Whole process only took about 10 minutes. As far as rot goes, I would think you could just peel back some carpet to check for rot, My bunk carpet was held on by staples. I actually had to re-staple most of my bunk carpet. (Boatmate does a horrible job from the factory on their bunk carpeting IMO).

Hope this helps!

[pap]

Thanks so much for your replies. So you made the template by tracing under the boat while boat in place? How do you know what size hole? Our lake is 45 min from the house and so it's a big hassle to make multiple trips to get this done.

Did you make all the bunk spacers the same size or did you "ramp" them up from the back?

Why are there two holes? (again, my boat in storage right now so maybe these questions obvious, but I've got winter fever and want to get this planned out

[supraaddict]

Yes, I traced the template out while the boat was on the trailer. Using cardboard I just pressed hard against the lag bolt heads to show me where the center would be. All the bunk mounts on my trailer were the same spacing between the bolt holes. All bunk spacers are the same size. I had 6 made total. The two front bunks have spacers on the front and the rear. The rear bunks have them on the front two mounts toward the front of the trailer that sit next to the back of the front mounts. In order to find out what size hole to drill in the spacers, I just removed one lag bolt from the back of the front bunks and took it to the machine shop for them to size the holes.

I hope this all makes sense. if not I can make an illustration of the bunks that I put spacers under. I'm not familiar with your trailer but I'm sure it's close to the same as mine.

[NorCalPR]

I'll be reworking my trailer before the summer hits. It's terrible. I have no bow riser for my 98 comp (Boatmate trailer) and the nose ALWAYS wants to go under the boat buddy. I'll also be removing that.

We started by dunking the snot out of the trailer. Didn't help. Pulled the trailer out till the front of the bunks were out of the water. Would hit at a moderate speed. Then as the driver backed the trailer down, the boat was left in gear to help get up to the block.

It still wants to dive under the block. So frustrating as it took out a chunk of gelcoat already. Was not a cheap fix!


Question: When you guys are coming into your trailers, those with V blocks in the front, is the keel hitting it before the hose gets to the block at the winch?

[TitanTn]

Question: When you guys are coming into your trailers, those with V blocks in the front, is the keel hitting it before the hose gets to the block at the winch?

This is a good question and something I've wondered too. I don't think mine hits ever. I think I do roll up on the keel roller for a moment, but I'm not sure that my bow riser is doing anything. I'm planning on adjusting it a little this spring, but I'm also concerned that if too much weight is placed on it, there will be scuffs/burns in the gelcoat.

[haugy]

Question: When you guys are coming into your trailers, those with V blocks in the front, is the keel hitting it before the hose gets to the block at the winch?

Yes, it is supposed to hit the bow riser (V block) before you get to the bow roller. The job of the bow riser is to not only lift the bow, but to center it as well. It also provides a nice speed brake before approaching the roller. With a proper trailer setup and loading, the boat should glide up the bow riser till it almost stops right at the roller. Allowing you to push gently forward against the roller, and then hook up and go. The bow roller is not to support the weight of the bow. It is to provide a rest place for the bow eye and hook to secure against tightly.

Another reason you see the old Supra trailers and Nautique trailers had the bow poles. They were used in place of the bow roller. They provided a good stopping point that was easy to line up on. But those trailers still had a bow riser to help hold the weight of the bow.

[TitanTn]

That's a great, visual description Haugy. Thanks.