Adjusting the trailer for a better fit

[NorCalPR]

I know of a couple trailers with the front bow poles, that don't have the V block.

I guess I should also look and see if the boat should be raised from the trailer, especially the front section of the bunks. I can't remember if the bunks are adjustable on the trailer, maybe the pads have worked themselves down.

[haugy]

I know of a couple trailers with the front bow poles, that don't have the V block.

Absolutely. My post wasn't about all trailers, just most of the common Supra trailers, but you need to look at the boats on the trailer. Older Nautiques, MC ProStar 190s sometimes don't have a bow riser. Because of their short size they can just use the bunks to support them. Some trailers have bow bunks in place of the bow riser.

Can you post a picture of your trailer with the boat on it?

[NorCalPR]

Not the best pictures, but all I have at this moment. Notice the picture that in the closer shot of the bow, there's a ton of weight on that boatbuddy. The boat also seems to sit pretty low on the trailer.

[beat taco]

Now I know why you're norcalpr! Nice taco.
I have a trailer with no front bunks either. I noticed at the boat ramp guys with the same boat as me but a couple years newer had front bunks and no issues getting the bow to raise. I was going to weld some up but then I started putting my rear tires of the truck 6" deep and never had another issue, it was finally low enough to float right over the top of the buddy. Worked on all ramps too. But if not the front bunks would be on the trailer!
Anyways I always recognized your handle but thought it was just a coincidence.

[haugy]

Okay, thanks for the pics.

Your boat is short enough that on that tandem axle trailer, most of your weight is right over that front axle. Since it's a comp, you have hardly any weight in the bow. Like I mentioned earlier, if your trailer is long enough with long enough bunks you may not have a bow riser. Looking at other mid 90's comps, their trailers are just like yours.

Now to fix your loading and make it easier. You could do a gradual bunk lift. It looks like you have 4 main bunk mounting points. Start at say 1.50" at the front bunk mount, go to 1.25" at the second, 1.00" at the third, and .75" at the back. That will help raise your bow a bit. I'm not sure how close it is to going over or under the boat buddy, you can decide how much you want to lift the nose. Don't go over 2" or you will start to shear bolts.

Your trailer is tricky. I see your dilemma now. Not enough room to put a bow riser, and even with the low slope and rise of your bow, the bow would barely rise when it did hit it.

I'd try a bunk lift first. Swap out the boat buddy to a roller and see how that works. If you have to you can slightly, pay attention, slightly, cut and drill a lower mounting point for the boat buddy. But with your winch where it is, you can't move it much and still get the securing leverage.

That's a tough one. I'm trying to think of ways to modify it without sacrificing performance or safety, but there aren't many choices.

[NorCalPR]

I think what I will do is throw a cherry picker on the bow and lift to support the nose, and lower the trailer till the weight is off of the boat buddy. Then see how much I need to lift.

[haugy]

I think what I will do is throw a cherry picker on the bow and lift to support the nose, and lower the trailer till the weight is off of the boat buddy. Then see how much I need to lift.

EDIT: First switch to a roller if that's what your going to do. You'd be surprised how that might help your clearance alone. Then you can decide to lift your bunks.


Actually if I were you, I'd put it in at your most popular spot, bring the boat in so it's right up to the boat buddy. If it's under it then measure the distance from the bottom of the hull to the trailer bunks at the front. Then add the distance needed to get above the boat buddy as well. If the boat is on the bunks, then just take the distance needed to get the nose slightly above the boat buddy. Remember you just want to get the nose over it enough to drive up on the roller. If you go too high, then the bow eye will also be over the roller. Which isn't bad, but can make your winch load tricky.

[NorCalPR]

I first have to solve the issue. The roller is the same height as the boat buddy, and currently the nose wants to go under as the nose is a good 1" or 2" lower.

For me to get the nose up and above, I either need to dunk the snot out of the trailer (and my truck) or when I get close to the boat buddy, lift the nose above it while winching to get it up and over. A roller won't solve the issue, the nos will still be Lower than the roller to begin with

[haugy]

Sounds like you have a plan. Yeah I wasn't sure how close we were talking. Take pics with your process.

[NorCalPR]

Fixed:

I shimmed the bumps with 3/4" plywood. The bunks are aged, so I'll end up replacing them next year anyways, and will do nice aluminum spacers. For now it works. I also sprayed the bunks with some pledge to make it easier to drive up.

The bolt that holds the boat buddy was also severely bent, and actually made the boat buddy sit higher. With a new bolt in, the boat buddy sits lower.

I also reinforced the boat buddy so it won't bend. Took it apart and added some welds.....


The boat buddy works sweet now. I have a friend back the trailer down, I drive onto the bunks and when the front clicks, I just take the boat out of gear and turn off the motor and the boat comes out of the water. To get the pin to loosen, I just crank on the winch enough to free the pin for launch...


I also notice that the boat centers perfectly every time now. Before it was a chore trying to get the boat centered on the trailer. After camping for a week and launching several times, it centered every single time.

I went from loading my boat in 5 minutes and biting my nails hoping it wouldn't take out a chunk, to an effortless loading that's under a minute.