1985 Supra Comp TS6M

[Supra_Comp]

Here's one just to keep you guys looking....

[Supra_Comp]

Updates. More foam and floor coming out. Alost had to cut out the ski locker to get out the junk under the gas tank, will be building a new custom removable locker.

[TitanTn]

Congrats on your progress. I just shake my head every time I see the quality of fiberglass work from the 80s.

[Supra_Comp]

It sure is bad! When I was cutting out the ski locker, it was almost paper thin.

I was going trough your build thread, how did the stainless plates work on the transom? I will be doing something along those lines for mine as it is pretty weak. By the way, what paint did you use down the centre section? I am going to steal that idea lol looks fantastic.

Another last question, where did you get your carpet? I'm trying to stick to a budget but I sure would like to put the nice plush stuff like the factory instead of the one depot indoor/outdoor carpet.

[TitanTn]

It sure is bad! When I was cutting out the ski locker, it was almost paper thin.

I was going trough your build thread, how did the stainless plates work on the transom? I will be doing something along those lines for mine as it is pretty weak. By the way, what paint did you use down the centre section? I am going to steal that idea lol looks fantastic.

Another last question, where did you get your carpet? I'm trying to stick to a budget but I sure would like to put the nice plush stuff like the factory instead of the one depot indoor/outdoor carpet.

The stainless backing plates worked well. My platform is very stable, and I think reversing the direction of the bolts helped too. If I had to do it over again I'd make the plates much larger. It doesn't hurt to overbuild this area as it takes a lot of pressure and the factory didn't build a beefy transom.

I used a hardened enamel paint. The right thing to do is to used bilge kote http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...uct.do?pid=119 but I felt that my bilge would see MUCH less oil, water, etc than a bilge from a cruiser and the extra expense wasn't justified. So research and make your own decision.

I got my carpet from Ingles Carpet in Dalton, Ga, the proclaimed carpet capital of the world. The quality is excellent and the price was too. I'm local so I just picked it up, but there are several forum members that has purchased over the phone and the carpet was shipped. It's worth comparing against any local options you have, but I've been very pleased. I would definitely get some true marine carpet versus anything at the big box stores. The difference is worth it and the cost is minimal. I think I paid about $120 for all my carpet and glue. http://inglescarpetinc.com

[Supra_Comp]

Great info, thanks Titan.

So parts of my stringers are solid and others are rotten. Would it be best to cut out the bad sections and glass in new? Or just replace the whole stringer with fresh timber? Kind of a dumb question but its worth asking.

Also I assume that the pieces that crossed between stringers....it would be best to make those go right to the hull and glass them in for extra support? I think I saw Jet and Titan do it on their builds.

[TitanTn]

I really don't think you'll want too many sections graphed into each other. Small doses might be okay if you know you've removed all the rot and the remaining wood is 100% clean. If you have more than a small section that needs repairing, your best bet is to replace the whole stringer while you're in this deep. You don't want to be back in the same position in two years.

You don't really need to run the cross braces to the hull (in fact you definitely don't want them touching the hull). The biggest thing is to repair the rot around the area where they bisect the stringer and then fix it so water can't get in there again.

[Supra_Comp]

(in fact you definitely don't want them touching the hull).

What is the best thing to put in between the hull and the stringer...just some PL premium adhesive?

My other thought is that I work in the sheet metal/hvac business and in between the duct flanges we use a a gasket material that comes in a roll. It bonds but does not cure (stays somewhat flexible) and is only about 1/8" thick and is waterproof. Would this be a possible solution for bedding before fiberglass is laid?

Also, what is the best option here. Epoxy resin and 1708 tape? I have see and read so many different options.

[TitanTn]

Oh boy, you've stirred up a can of worms now! What type of fiberglass and what type of resin...

I don't think you need to introduce a new material to the equation. The standard construction materials are more than adequate, especially if used properly. The wood should not touch the side of the hull and should be at least bedded with PL or peanut butter. I'd consider not bonding to the side of the hull regardless since the contact patch will be so small and it's not really necessary.

The general rule is that epoxy sticks to everything and poly sticks to poly. Your boat was built with poly, so you're fine to use that. Epoxy is more expensive, so if poly does the job, well then...

But some people will argue the better bonding strength of epoxy, and it's true, but it's usually connected with bonding epoxy to other types of surfaces. I'm not sure that anyone has been able to prove that an epoxy to poly bond is significantly better than a ploy to poly bond.

1708 is a structural glass. It's very strong, but is very hard to wrap around corners, angles, etc. My favorite combination is having both 1708 and chopped strand mat (CSM) on hand. Coupled with a clean bonding surface, and plenty of resin, CSM is also strong and shouldn't be viewed as completely inferior to 1708. They each have their place.

I hope that helps some. I know there is a lot of confusing information out there about fiberglass and resin.

[Supra_Comp]

Titan,

Great information there.

I will probably stick with the PL premium bedding method for the stringers to ensure they do not contact the hull, and the same for the floors. Since I did not do a top off restoration, it would be impossible to glass in the floors to the side of the hull so my thought is to put PL premium on the top of the boards and slide it under the lip of the interior wall and leave it off of the side of the hull. This way I am getting another form of adhesion as well as protecting any water from going over the edges of the floors and into the foam.

So I assume the best method would most likely be to use the 1708 on the sides of the stringers where it meets the hull and then use the CSM on top and lay it over the top of the stringer. I read on another forum it is best to use a router to round the top of the wood or use a table saw to cut a 45* chamfer on either side to allow the matte to fold over easier, truth or a waste of time?