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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Chain of lakes, IL
    Posts
    194

    Default

    Now I just need to remove all that oxidation, I am thinking of trying some 3M liquid rubbing coumpound on a harbor freight buffer.
    1987 Supra Sunsport
    351 PCM

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    N.W. Suburbs Chicago, IL
    Posts
    2,307

    Default How to remove pinstriping and supra wave

    Have fun wet sanding!!!
    '86 Comp TS6M - Reborn 2016
    Riding a HO Sports CX Ski

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    2,164

    Default

    based on your pic i'd do what jetlink says. your compound results may look good for several months but the haze will probably come back.

    that's a nasty scum line.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Hudson, WI
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    Go straight to wet sanding. It will turn out much better and will actually last.

    Rubbing compound will look great for 3/4s of this season and then the fade will come back.
    Former owner of a 1987 Supra Saltare. Current owner of a Malibu 23LSV.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Chain of lakes, IL
    Posts
    194

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wotan2525 View Post
    Go straight to wet sanding. It will turn out much better and will actually last.

    Rubbing compound will look great for 3/4s of this season and then the fade will come back.
    what grit do you think I should start with?
    1987 Supra Sunsport
    351 PCM

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Hudson, WI
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    I started with 800 but if I did it again, I'd start with 600. Gelcoat is thick and you'll never go through it. I'd go 600, 800, 1000, 1500 (small steps make it a lot easier.) Then rubbing compound, Finesse-It II and then wax.

    It's a LOT of work but it will look like new when it's done.
    Former owner of a 1987 Supra Saltare. Current owner of a Malibu 23LSV.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Chain of lakes, IL
    Posts
    194

    Default

    So I picked up some 600, 800 wet sand paper and some heavy oxidation removing compound and started to work on her. But I am still not seeing fantastic results. I probably worked the spot blow for around 2 hours and still cant get down to a great base. ideas?

    side.JPG
    1987 Supra Sunsport
    351 PCM

  8. #18
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Nashville
    Posts
    2,127

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mabbore View Post
    So I picked up some 600, 800 wet sand paper and some heavy oxidation removing compound and started to work on her. But I am still not seeing fantastic results. I probably worked the spot blow for around 2 hours and still cant get down to a great base. ideas?

    side.JPG
    Before you trying anything more. Finish out that section. You should always do a test section on your boat before going full-bore. That means go from 600 grit all the way to 2000 grit, rubbing compound, swirl remover, polish. While that's a pretty bad line, some more may come off as you continue sanding and polishing. And if it doesn't you know right then that you need to be more aggressive. This helps you eliminate doing things twice. Finish out a section, if it's not the desired result, then you can change your routine.

    I wouldn't go any lower than 600 grit, but that does look like a really bad line. Perhaps more aggressive sanding, less water, more pressure, but still a 600 grit. If that doesn't work, move to 400 grit, but only do a small section. Now you're starting to work into the gel-coat pretty good.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Hudson, WI
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    It won't get shiny until it's polished. I'd keep at it. Change your paper frequently (as soon as you feel that it's not "grabbing" any more.) Keep dunking it in water as it gets clogged fast. You'll get there.
    Former owner of a 1987 Supra Saltare. Current owner of a Malibu 23LSV.

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