Page 2 of 6 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 52
  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Nashville
    Posts
    2,127

    Default

    Welcome to the Supra world.

    As others have stated, first take a deep breath. I know it seems real crappy right now, you feel taken advantage of, and are probably having serious buyers remorse. But all of the issues you have noted can be fixed. Some easy, some not so much. But there are ways to work with it.

    Lets start with the easy ones first. The blower and the bilge. Mine only had one blower running as well when I got it. It turned out to be a bad wiring problem. Are you any good with electrical wiring on say a car? If so, it's the same concept, check your power and ground at the blower, and then trace it back. Your blowers are under the rear hatch. You then remove the screws that are holding the storage bin in place. Once you remove that, you will see your two blowers back there.

    Bilge pump. First off, I'm a safety nut. My family rides in my boat, so there are no second chances if something happens. Any boat I buy, gets a new bilge pump. I don't know what the old one has been through. Bad wiring, did they ever leave it on for long periods of time, was it full of gunk, etc. Get a new large bilge pump, that you wire in personally. That way you know it's good, and a new pump. My guess is the check valve on yours is worn out keeping it from fulling pumping all the water out.

    Carb. Have you ever done any carb work? It's not too bad once you do it once. But lets start with some simple diagnostics first. Get yourself a 5 gallon can of fuel, and about 4 ft of fuel line from an auto parts store. It's always handy to have around anyways. Then run the fuel line straight into the fuel pump on the front of the engine. Trace the hard fuel line from the carb down, it will go into the pump. On the pump will be a rubber hose from your gas tank. Put your new line to the 5 gallon can there. Start your engine. Does it still sputter? If so, it could be the carb or the fuel pump. If not, and it's better, it's probably just the fuel filter. Next, disconnect the fuel line from the carb and turn the motor over. You should get a lot of fuel out of the fuel pump. It can still be bad even if it's pumping a lot, so that doesn't rule it out.

    Next, there is a tiny metal screen right where you disconnected the fuel line from the carb. Check it and make sure it's clean and free of debris. That can affect the fuel flow. If these all check out, then your carb probably just needs a good rebuild. We can walk you through that as well.

    As for the stringers. Well the reality is, most all of these boats that are pre-1992 are going to get stringer rot at some point. It's only a matter of when. The bad thing is, it sounds like the seller knew the stringers were bad by putting epoxy in there. That is a band aid that I have seen work, but normally only for a season. I know guys that have run their Supra for a year or two with stringer rot, but they are gambling big time. If it turns loose you are screwed big time. Pull your lag bolts out, and check them out like others have said. You can try to add some diameter to them and about 1/2 an inch in length to see if they bite and hold. I've also seen guys over-tighten them and strip them out, and then you think the wood is bad. But in reality the wood was fine, and a larger bolt held for years.

    Take pictures, that helps us help you a ton. Take a lot of pictures of what you are working on, problems, etc. And then we can visualize and assist. Plus we just love to see the new Supra's in the neighborhood.

    Again, don't worry. You've got a Saltare, and many of us have them here, so you're in good company for help.
    Last edited by haugy; 06-04-2013 at 09:16 AM.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Garrison Minnesota
    Posts
    42

    Default

    Thanks everyone for your help! You guys are awesome! I will take a ton of pics tonight, and take a closer look at the stringers to see if I feel safe enough to use the boat this season. I'm fairly mechanically inclined. I work quite a bit on my two four wheelers and have rebuilt a few carbs in my time. From what I read the Holley 4160 doesn't sound much more complicated than my Sportsman 500's carb. Easier to get off and access too! If any of you incredibly helpful members have good links to parts kits or suggested upgrades/mods that would be great! I'm spending about two hours or more a night right now trying to catch up on what I just bought! haha. So if you have suggestions to help cut my research time down I would be very very grateful. Thanks again for your support and help, and I'll do my best to get some pics up tonight.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Nashville
    Posts
    2,127

    Default

    Go here if you need things: www.skidim.com They have tons of parts for these kinds of boats and engines. If you're not sure, call them up, they are extremely helpful.

    Many here are putting phenolenic spacers on their carbs so that when they are running for a while, the heat from the block doesn't cause the fuel to boil out. That will make you have to crank on the engine for about 5-10 seconds next time you go to start it. Other than that, it shouldn't really need any mods. And I'd just focus on getting it running safely and reliably first.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    826

    Default

    I know the exact feeling you had last night. Last winter I purchased an 1989 Pirata brought it home. I knew it needed upholstery, so I took it straight to a shop. After he looked at it he let me know that it also needed stringers. Wanted $10,000 for stringers and upholstery. I paniced tried to get the seller to take it back, and then I found this forum. After a lot of calming from the members here, I was able to get through last summer without too much problem and then I had Donny replace the stringers over the winter. Now I have a solid boat that I really love and it is paid for. I paid $4400 for the Pirata with the rusty old trailer. If your upholstery is good you are better off than me as I spent $3000 to reupholster her.

    One side of my motor mount bolt felt solid. The other side just spun. After talking to Donny I used lag bolts that were a little longer, and filled the holes with get rot first. Didn't have any problems with using it all last year. After seeing how bad the stringers really were, it is rather surprising the boat stayed together at all.

    I am pretty sure that after you get it running properly and enjoy it on the water, you will be happy with it and willing to to the repairs she needs.

    We will all be watching your progress.
    2006 24SSV 8.1 Vortec

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Garrison Minnesota
    Posts
    42

    Default

    Didn't get as much time to take pics as I would like, I'll try for some better ones tomorrow with my other camera. I pulled a couple of the bolts from the engine mounts, and while they are not in good condition, they could be worse. I'm looking into putting oversized lags in with epoxy to get me through this summer. Any arguments why I should NOT take this next step would be apreciated. Any reccomedations on what epoxy to use...or not to use would be awesome. I believe I would have to drill out the motor mounts to accomodate the larger lags so that's pretty much my only hesitancy. However if I keep it long enough to replace the stringers, I wouldn't be opposed to using a bigger size lag to hold down the motor. Yea, .02 appreciated.



    https://plus.google.com/photos/10617...27978386962497
    Last edited by z2smith; 06-04-2013 at 11:12 PM.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Hudson, WI
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    Here's the thing -- epoxy will not adhere to wet wood no matter what you do. I'd get stainless or galvanized lag bolts that are 1" longer and 1 size larger in diameter. I'd inject a 2-part epoxy in the hole and then I would immediately snug up the new lag bolts (don't drill the holes out any bigger!)

    The next day I would check them and see if they are "snug" or if they spin freely. (Again DO NOT overtighten/strip these -- you're only going to have one chance and I'd leave them 10-15ft lbs tight.)

    If the majority of these snug up, I wouldn't hesitate to run it as-is. I'd check them regularly and I'd do everything I could to keep the boat covered/dry.

    You can easily get another few seasons out if the boat if this works. You'll only be out $20 if it doesn't. It at least gives you the time to plan for the time/expense of replacing them.
    Former owner of a 1987 Supra Saltare. Current owner of a Malibu 23LSV.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Clark, CO.
    Posts
    587

    Default

    There is a method for replacing wood for screws or lags, basically you oversize the hole and replace with new wood, glued inplace. this would assume the surrounding wood was in good shape, it would also mean removal of the engine.
    Function before fashion!

  8. #18
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Nashville
    Posts
    2,127

    Default

    Oooh looks pretty in red. No full boat shot? Come'on you can't just tease us with a stern shot. Get her broadside.

    Okay, the good and the bad.

    Bad first: Looking at picture number 4 I think, looking from the ski pylon forward you can see a very high waterline. Could be a minor thing that just happened once, or could have sat like that for a while. That bilge pump is shot to hell. Replace it.
    As for the motor mounts, it won't hurt to open them up a bit. The reality is, you need to remove those bolts and dig a screwdriver down in there a bit. If it feels like sponge, you're due for stringers. If it's solid, go for the bigger lags and get a good hold. But keep in mind, this is just a band-aid.

    The good. I've seen worse man. Really. Look through some of Salty's, SybrMikes, and Titan's threads and you can see some rough dogs that now look great. Their boats looked pretty rough, and they are now some of the best looking boats on the site. The biggest thing is to not get into too much of a rush, and don't let it overwhelm ya.

    Start with the lag bolts first. If they are toast and you are due for stringers, a new bilge pump won't matter.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Windsor, Ontario
    Posts
    1,129

    Default

    Engine mounts seem to be in OK shape. When they get really soft the mounts will wear marks in the fibreglass and will often oose with wetness. I would go through the basics and repair the bilge pump and re attach it to the bottom of the boat like the float is attached. The boat has spent some time soaking in the lake by the water lines in the hull of the boat. My biggest concern is the structural integrity of the transom. There seems to be some large cracks in the gel coat which would co inside with soft wood.

    All in all it looks to be a nice boat which needs some love but will get you in the lake for now. Do some research on the cap off stringer replacement, this might be a good winter project for you. Most of all welcome to the family and enjoy your new ride.

    2003 Supra Launch " Gravity Games Edition"
    Dodge ram CTD tow vehicles....

  10. #20

    Default Re: Biggest mistake OR just an expensive oppertunity???

    +1 on the platform mounts. This can happen to you.
    Attached Images Attached Images

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •