DIY "Nautique NSS Waveplate" On a Supra Comp

[NorCalPR]

I've been pretty happy with the surf wave on my 98 comp, and people that I've brought on the boat have been very impressed with the wave. I currently use my ballast system that I plumbed in, and one bag on the side we surf on. If I don't have enough people in the boat, I'll fill up another bag behind the motor. Works great, I wouldn't change a single thing about the wave. The only downside is to switch from a Goofy footed rider to a Regular footed rider takes too long. It's also quite uncomfortable for people in the boat, having to squish on one side, with the bag on that side of the boat.

I looked into the Malibu Surfgate builds. I build one that clamped onto the teak. Good thing I put no holes in the boat or the teak, because it just didn't work with my boat.

1009928_10200609746379398_590232564_n.jpg

The reason I felt that it just didn't work with the boat is my hull is stepped. At the port and starboard side of the hull, there is a chine that is there to reduce spray. I read on the Malibu forum that a guy with a DD Ski Nautique had problems getting his "surf gate" to work too. He also has a stepped hull.

The other issue is the surf gate is just downright bulky. Because of how low my boat sits in the water, it just wouldn't work right. When weighted the platform is at least 1-2" under water...

I decided to fabricate something like the Nautiques use on heir newer boats. Before we get into how much force is generated, there really isn't that much. According to Airguide:

1.5 psi = 10 mph
2 psi = 12 mph (Typical pressure produced by a set of young health lungs.)
6 psi = 20 mph
13 psi = 30 mph
23 psi = 40 mph
52 psi = 60 mph

Converting the square inches of the NSS plate deployed, the plate roughly sees about 40-60 lbs of pressure at the very most...




Here's the bracket. The two plates clamp onto the teak, the larger one clamping to the wood, the smaller one clamping to the bracket. The two bolts allow wooden plates to be swapped out easily on the water. The white paper is a tracing of the hull.



Here's the bracket clamped into place, with a wooden plate bolted in place.



To find the best plate, I cut out several of them so I can swap them out on the water. When I find the best one, I can fine tune it...

[NorCalPR]

Here's the lengths that the plate protrudes from the hull. Not much is needed!



Here's the boat loaded down. Instead of the ballast bag on one side of the boat, it's just ran behind the motor cover. 400 lbs is on the surf side of the boat to mimic people weight. Here was with no plate.



Plate "a". Way too much delay, the wave is completely washed out..



Plate "b". Better, but the wave is just too small and unrideable.

[NorCalPR]

Plate "c". Better, still looks small to me.



Plate "d".



Plate "e". This is looking much better.



Plate "f". Looks like a very long pocket, wave needs to be taller.

[NorCalPR]

Plate "G". A good balance between height and pocket. Need to test ride this one..



I haven't test ridden any of the waves yet, I need people to come up with me and test on the boat. For now it at least looks like I have something I can work with. I still need to fab a Goofy rider side and tweak that as well...

The idea is to build something that will screw in to the back of the transom and look factory and fit in with the boat. I may or may not go with an automated setup, haven't decided on that yet. At least this looks more promising than the surfgate build for my boat, and the nice thing is this thing is totally customizable.

[CornRickey]

I have done allot of work with my surf gates and believe the Nautiques factory system is superior to the BUs because of the ability of it to fully retract on the surf side. The retracted gates still mess with the surf wave no matter how high the platform is ( with in reason). I made mine removable for this reason. Takes about 10 seconds to switch sides.

I like the looks of your design. Do the wood panels slide in and out? Does the brackets effect the wake on the surf side?

[NorCalPR]

The metal frame is a "C" shape. The wood just slips in plate and butts up against the frame. Then the bolts are tightened down to hold the wooden plate in place.

When removed, the frame has zero effect on the wave, or wake for wakeboarding.

[jeff_in_ny]

I like your approach NorCalPR; good idea making different sizes to test them out. Looking forward to more of your results.

[2500HD]

Lookin good NorCal, I've been looking forward to seeing what you would come up with.

[2500HD]

So......how did it work? Pics will do, but video is better!

[rmaytee]

Watching...