7.4L top end refresh

[TitanTn]

I've got what sounds like a ticking lifter or two. If I get the rpm over 2900 for more than 5 minutes, when I come off plane you can hear the ticking at idle. After a couple minutes of idling the ticking will go away.

So, this winter I'm going to do a top end refresh. Anyone want to offer some things to make sure I do, or just some tips in general? I plan on replacing all the lifters, and I'm pretty sure that means I should replace the rods as well. I'll take the head to a machine shop for rebuilding.

I'm not really interested in building more power, so no need to suggest tips for building 500 hp. The stock 330 is fine with me. I'm not drag racing anyone.

[Blackntan90]

If it is in the budget I would just rebuild completely. Not too much more to tear down, other than removing the engine from the boat. That way you can have the machine shop clean all the oil passages of gunk, and other checks for cracks etc. Then you would know the engine is done. it would be ready for many more years of use, hell with what you have already done to the rest of the boat it would be all new where it counts! So you don't want to replace the intake with an aluminum aftermarket for better all-around performance? I have been toying with the idea lately, It would be a cheap and easy way to gain power, less weight etc.

[haugy]

Yeah I'm with Rich. If you've got it that far apart it's not a bad idea to do a whole thing. But that's just me, Captain Overkill.

I need to research because I can't remember which heads ours have, but I think you can have the ports machined to allow better airflow. I believe our ports are rectangular and the newer heads are more rounded out and smooth. Smooth boring the heads would be something I would do. It doesn't up horsepower, but it does allow for better airflow and that can help with fuel consumption and response. I'd definitely swap what I could to aluminum for weight, temperature, better designs, etc.

I can't remember but research just changing the rods and complications. I always do a full rebuild on my engines when I pull them, but if I remember right there can be possible complications from putting in new rods (if they aren't bent) and possible grooves or channels in the camshaft.

Be prepared for new valves (unless that's part of the freshen up, didn't have details). Are they dipping it? Or just pulling out old stuff and putting in new? What is their plan for "freshening up"?

Don't forget to put flame stickers on the valve covers, that adds 15 horsepower right there.

[Jetlink]

But that's just me, Captain Overkill.

Captain Overkill looks like an amateur compared to you dude.

I echo the above responses as well, why not go the extra mile and take care of the whole engine once and then have the piece of mind going forward? I am already planning my engine overhaul when the top cap comes off and it will be a full rebuild both boat and engine at that time for this guy.

[wotan2525]

Why pull the engine if you don't have to?

I'd pull the heads, have the valves serviced and inspect the pistons/bores. I wouldn't replace my lifters without replacing the cam at the same time. A new timing set would also make sense to me.

How about intake? This would be a great time to switch over to an Edelbrock Performer II (which you may be able to find cheap on craigslist.)

[92SupraComp]

at least throw a decent cam in, give it a nicer sound.

i like the sound of cammed motors :P

[Kma4444]

If you have tapping after running it as you mention, I would suggest you have a problem with the lifters or oil pressure/oil supply. If your oil pressure drops to the point where it cannot keep the lifters extended enough to take out the lash then you will get the tapping noise you mention. The lifters can cause this by having too much wear but it's not common and would more likely show up at base idle where oil pressure should be lowest in an engine with no other problems. If you have a restriction in your oil pump pickup then you will loose pressure as rpm increases and can cause exactly what you mention. The restriction is most usually sludge of some kind that restricts flow through the screen on the pickup tube.

Easy enough to diagnose and repair, once the engine is out. Sounds to me like the smart money is on pulling it and giving everything a good look.

[Moor]

Don't forget to put flame stickers on the valve covers, that adds 15 horsepower right there.

Make sure they are chrome valve covers with a matching chrome air cleaner, they shoulbe be good for about 5 horses at the prop. add the flame stickers and you will be the fasted ski boat on the water lol

seriously tho, i would strongly consider a full rebuild if its finacially feasable. like people said, its not that much more expense or work, and the heart of your boat will be brand new. who knows how much metal from your worn out, ticking lifters has found its way into the connecting rod and main bearings? as also noted, the tick may be due to poor oil pressure or gummed up oil passages inside the motor... if thats the case, who knows how much damage has been done to all of the wearable surfaces inside your engine? if the oil pressue is weak due to a bad pump or clogged up oil passages, there is no doubt that premature engine wear has taken place. the question is: how much wear? if it were me, since its a boat, and not exactly like you can call a tow truck like if your car broke, id replace the piston rings, rod bearing, main bearings and oil pump at the very least, just for some peace of mind.

[Moor]

another thing to think about.... what kind of engine oil are you running? you should be runnin oil with a high content of the zppd additive, otherwise, premature cam and lifter wear can (and usually will) occure. do a google search on zppd and camshaft wear

[92SupraComp]

Mobil 1 specs

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf

I use 10w-30, it has 900 PPM of zinc.

Switched my CC over in 2010 when I got it and my comp will get changed this year.