How many batteries do you run?

[Torque]

Ok. Starting to get confused now. I just need it to work.

[Wylietunes]

The only difference is the automatic relay that switches batteries for you. Which in my opinion is actually a weakness, not a benefit. (sorry wotan). I've had battery banks and battery switching systems fail before. The ones that had electronic by-passes and relays were always the biggest headache to deal with.

One is straight manual with no digital overrides, the other is designed to take the guess work out of it all. But they are still the same when you step back and look at them.

Those 2 switches are a night an day different from each other in both wiring configuration and use. The existence of the ACR/VSR is only a small part of how the 2 systems very.
A standard 1/2/BOTH/OFF switch has 3 cable studs: BATT-1, BATT-2 and COMMON. in a typical configuration, ALL boat and house loads, with the exception of the auto bilge wire, terminate to the "C" post of the switch. Its a totally manual system with the loads drawing from which ever battery bank the switch is turned to and in turn, the alternator will feed which ever bank the switch is turn to, when the engine is running. It will allow for the user to select which battery to start the engine with and which battery to allow the house loads to draw form when the boat is anchored. And as long as the switch is NOT in the "BOTH" position, you will always have one battery held in reserve for a restart after anchoring.

The Dual-Circuit Plus switch has 4 cable posts: 1A for boat loads, 1B to main battery, 2A for house loads such as stereo, and 2B for the dedicated house battery. It has 2 switch positions as opposed to the 4 that a traditional switch has; OFF, ON and COMBINE. OFF disconnects ALL loads, whether its a house or boat load, from their perspective battery. When in the ON position, 2 contacts close, connecting 1A to 1B and 2A to 2B. So now all loads are connected to their dedicated battery, but the 2 banks are completely isolated from each other. Boat loads will not draw form the house battery and stereo loads will not draw from the main cranking battery, even with the engine off. Only when in COMBINE, are the 2 banks connected. This would be for an emergency start or if the house bank has been drawn down very deep, and the ACR/VSR bouncing closed/opened due to the excessive load of the depleted house bank. The semi-manual Dual-circuit pluss ACR/VSR system is a great setup, buts its not right for every boat system. A large house bank and heavy draw stereo can easily exceed the design capabilities of the ACR/VSR. In that case, a standard manual switch or complete stand-alone house bank would be better.

Although a little unconventional, you could use an ACR/VSR or even a diode type Iso with a traditional 1/2/BOTH switch, but you would not want to use the Dual-Circuit Plus switch without the ACR/VSR as part of the system.

Haugy, of the ACR/VSR was a weakness for you, then your system is one of those that sounds like the ACR/VSR is not the right solution. its not that the ACR/VSR is faulty, just wrong application for a good system. It would be a setup to fail situation. I hope this sheds some light on to these 2 systems.

[Wylietunes]

Ok. Starting to get confused now. I just need it to work.

You need to plan and design the entire house system, including the size of the house battery bank thats needed to meet your needs. At that point, the switch systems will present themselves. Heck, you may not even be a good candidate for an ACR/VSR type system. A traditional switch system will work just fine for 99% of boaters, but its completely manual. An ACR/VSR will work just fine for about half the systems out there and is more automatic. After that, you have 1%'ers pushing 10k watts rms, spend 12 hours a day at the sand bar and have 12 golf cart batteries.

[haugy]

Ok. Starting to get confused now. I just need it to work.

Sounds like you are running an average stereo system. And with your engine size, I'd just get a simple perko. Even with multiple amps, and a WS XXX v2 sub I don't have any problems. I just have to lift a seat, and turn a knob.

As Wylie stated, the BlueSea keeps the boat batteries and the auxiliary battery separate. Which is what a perko will do, just you have to do it manually. And for the price difference, you can almost buy a good battery and a perko before you buy a BlueSea switch. You just need to keep your perko switch mounting location in mind. You want it easy to access, and the closer to the batteries (shorter cable) the better. For power and costs.

The real thing you want to focus on here, isn't so much the switch, it's the batteries. It doesn't matter what switch you have if you don't have good batteries. And I'm not talking Optima Red tops, just good batteries with a solid CCA rating and run time. Personally I just have some simple Wal-mart grade heavy crank batteries in my boat. They have a warranty, are cheap, and easily replaceable.

[michael hunter]

I run a simple 3 wire 95amp isolator on a 2 battery system. Its totally automatic no switches no large cables. It connects the battery's to the alternator when its charging and separates them when its not. I paid under 50 dollars in 2008 and have never had a problem.

[Torque]

I run a simple 3 wire 95amp isolator on a 2 battery system. Its totally automatic no switches no large cables. It connects the battery's to the alternator when its charging and separates them when its not. I paid under 50 dollars in 2008 and have never had a problem.

Can you take a picture of what you have?

[biggsie]

Sure Power 9523AD 95 Amp Battery Isolator
http://amzn.com/B0042QS4G0

Like this?


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[biggsie]

This one is a little cheaper. It seems like this would beat having to remember switching (1/2/both/off) all the time.
NOCO IGD140HP Grey 140 Amp High-Performance Battery Isolator
http://amzn.com/B001DKRF2M


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[michael hunter]

I used a Don Rowe Isolator I don't think they make them anymore but it is similar to this one.



Its wired like this except I don't have multiple acc battery's. My set up is the starting battery runs the original electric system just like it was from the factory. The stereo system is totally separate and runs on its own deep cycle battery. They are connected to the alternator through the isolator.

[Wylietunes]

Can you take a picture of what you have?

A diode type isolator is a whole 'nother animal in the dual-battery arena, with its own pros and cons. The biggest con of a diode Iso is the .7V drop across the diode. For a 2 battery setup with a mild 2-3 amp system, this is typically not an issue. This with large house banks, AGM batteries or high current draw systems, the diode Iso can leave the battery(s) undercharged. A diode Iso can be used without a switch, but you loose the ability to have the house bank as an emergency backup.

Pro: fully passive/automatic. Can be coupled with a switch with similar benefits as an ACR/VSR, but keep the voltage drop in mind.