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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Hudson, WI
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    I run 3 batteries. I've got 1 starting battery that is only responsible for starting and running the stuff wired through the dashboard. The other 2 are large, deep-cycle batteries that run everything else (stereo, pumps, etc.)

    I recommend the blue-sea add a battery system (http://www.bluesea.com/products/7650) because it keeps it WAY simpler as far as automating your battery switching. When the boat is running, it combines the battery banks so that both of them charge. Without this, you have to manually switch from 1 to 2 to make sure your batteries stay charged. It's a PITA. It also comes with a nice PERKO style switch (although I think it's nicer) that allows you to turn both banks completely off, or combine them (when your starting battery goes dead, you want to combine both banks to start the boat.)

    I fiddled around with all kinds of electrical problems before I sort of started over and spent the money to do it right. My batteries are probably overkill for most systems but I am running a lot of power. All of my wiring is 0 or 00 gauge. I also installed this on-board charger (http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GEN2-On-B.../dp/B003JSJS5I) and it makes sure all of my batteries are always charged/maintained properly. I just leave it plugged in whenever I'm not on the water. I had the ProSport version of that before and it burned up -- I've been pretty happy with this NOCO model.

    I also installed a 160 amp alternator to make sure I was charging batteries as much as possible while running.

    I haven't been stranded with a dead/dying battery since upgrading all of this. I use cheap Wal-Mart batteries and they have all lasted me 3-4 years on average.
    Former owner of a 1987 Supra Saltare. Current owner of a Malibu 23LSV.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Vancouver WA
    Posts
    1,111

    Default

    Here's my cheap ass solution for keeping my batteries charged:



    Harbor Freight, typically on sale for under $10 each. I bought two. works for me.
    2008 Moomba Mobius XLV. Monster Cargo Bimini, and more mods to come...

    1992 Supra Sunsport. **SOLD** 2k pounds ballast, Surf System, Blue LED's everywhere, decent audio system.


    Tow Rig: 2013 F150 Ecoboost FX4 (wife's rig) Other money pits include:1998 BMW M3 Cabriolet, 2002 Audi S6 Avant, 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636.

  3. #13

    Default How many batteries do you run?

    Quote Originally Posted by wotan2525 View Post
    I run 3 batteries. I've got 1 starting battery that is only responsible for starting and running the stuff wired through the dashboard. The other 2 are large, deep-cycle batteries that run everything else (stereo, pumps, etc.)

    I recommend the blue-sea add a battery system (http://www.bluesea.com/products/7650) because it keeps it WAY simpler as far as automating your battery switching. When the boat is running, it combines the battery banks so that both of them charge. Without this, you have to manually switch from 1 to 2 to make sure your batteries stay charged. It's a PITA. It also comes with a nice PERKO style switch (although I think it's nicer) that allows you to turn both banks completely off, or combine them (when your starting battery goes dead, you want to combine both banks to start the boat.)

    I fiddled around with all kinds of electrical problems before I sort of started over and spent the money to do it right. My batteries are probably overkill for most systems but I am running a lot of power. All of my wiring is 0 or 00 gauge. I also installed this on-board charger (http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GEN2-On-B.../dp/B003JSJS5I) and it makes sure all of my batteries are always charged/maintained properly. I just leave it plugged in whenever I'm not on the water. I had the ProSport version of that before and it burned up -- I've been pretty happy with this NOCO model.

    I also installed a 160 amp alternator to make sure I was charging batteries as much as possible while running.

    I haven't been stranded with a dead/dying battery since upgrading all of this. I use cheap Wal-Mart batteries and they have all lasted me 3-4 years on average.
    I'm going to follow your lead. I saw that system while I was looking things up. Do you have any pictures of your layout?

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Nashville
    Posts
    2,127

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Torque View Post
    I'm going to follow your lead. I saw that system while I was looking things up. Do you have any pictures of your layout?
    Hater. The standard perko does the same thing except the auto charging. Which again, you still might want to read up on charging batteries of different sizes. I'm not sure if the Deep-sea accounts for that.

    Wotan, the Blue-sea said it was rated for up to 120 amp systems. Any issues with the 160amp alternator? I'm putting 160amp alternators on my rig and my boat next year. Looking forward to that.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    440

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Torque View Post
    Hi all,

    I started redoing my interior in my 88 comp. all new seats, stereo etc. my question to you all is; do I need a second battery if I am using an amp or two on the stereo and sub?

    What did you do to accommodate the amps, led lighting etc? Maybe a larger alternator?

    I figure while I have it torn apart, I can package the second battery if needed easily.

    Thanks!!
    Although I am a huge fan of having dual batteries in a boat, its really based on use. A single battery and properly functioning alternator can and will keep pace with most typical boat loads, which includes a moderate audio system.

    The true "need" for a 2nd battery really comes into play when the system will be used at rest. How long the system will be played, and its estimated current draw, will determine how many battery amp hours are needed. There are a number of different dual-battery setups.
    Michael
    Mikes Liquid Audio

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    440

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Torque View Post
    Attachment 13456

    So is this correct?
    With whats drawn on that piece of paper, its correct, but there is a lot more thats not represented, and the devil is in the detail.

    "Perko" is a manufacturer of marine equipment, and they happen to make a couple different types of battery switches to. Guest and Blue Sea also make a couple different types of battery switches. I would not get hung on a brand of switch, but rather the appropriate type of switch that is right for your application. People tend to toss "perko" around like Kleenex for facial tissue. The type of switch will determine how its wired an used, not the brand.

    The total scope of your stereo system, how many battery amp hours you need and how you want to use it will drive the best battery setup for you. This will dictate the best switch, or even if one is needed.

    In terms of quality, the perko is at the bottom of my list. The plastic is brittle, they have short studs, which limits the number of cables you can attach. The studs are smaller then the other switch studs. The space on the business side of the switch is shallow, so again, this makes it hard to mount multiple cables. there is only one entry/exit point for ALL cables, so again, multiple cables gets cramped. Ive seen a number of them fail internally.

    Blue Sea is my preferred switch. Large lugs, you can enter or exit the switch from any of the 4 sides. longer studs. Deep walls and can also be flush mounted. body is more flexible.
    Michael
    Mikes Liquid Audio

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    440

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by haugy View Post
    Hater. The standard perko does the same thing except the auto charging. Which again, you still might want to read up on charging batteries of different sizes. I'm not sure if the Deep-sea accounts for that.

    Wotan, the Blue-sea said it was rated for up to 120 amp systems. Any issues with the 160amp alternator? I'm putting 160amp alternators on my rig and my boat next year. Looking forward to that.
    A standard 1/2/BOTH/OFF dual battery switch, such as the most common "Perko" brand switch, has very little in common with the Blue Sea Dual Circuit Plus switch that come in the "Add-a-battery" kit.
    Michael
    Mikes Liquid Audio

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Tacoma, Wa
    Posts
    861

    Default

    I run three with a two battery perko switch. I run two on together for the stereo and the single for the starter. when I'm moored up I switch to the two and save the single for starting.
    2003 Supra Launch 22SSV
    1986 Ski Natique 2001

  9. #19
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Nashville
    Posts
    2,127

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Wylietunes View Post
    A standard 1/2/BOTH/OFF dual battery switch, such as the most common "Perko" brand switch, has very little in common with the Blue Sea Dual Circuit Plus switch that come in the "Add-a-battery" kit.
    The only difference is the automatic relay that switches batteries for you. Which in my opinion is actually a weakness, not a benefit. (sorry wotan). I've had battery banks and battery switching systems fail before. The ones that had electronic by-passes and relays were always the biggest headache to deal with.

    One is straight manual with no digital overrides, the other is designed to take the guess work out of it all. But they are still the same when you step back and look at them.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by trayson View Post
    Here's my cheap ass solution for keeping my batteries charged:



    Harbor Freight, typically on sale for under $10 each. I bought two. works for me.
    Sounds like money saving idea
    When there's a will, I want to be in it.

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