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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Flowery Branch Georgia
    Posts
    2,742

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    I leveled the the boat and blocked the trailer frame to prevent movement. I then shot a laser line across the sides and measured down to where the upper hull sides attach to the floor. You can see the horizontal lines and measurements in the pics. That gives me a reference to the exact floor height.




    I continued to remove the floor and found they used 1x4 pine blocks stacked up and used the foam to hold them in. This is the only structure under the floor next to the sides . They were not treated with anything and they are starting to rot. If anyone has any detailed pics of the stringers on a comp especially at the sides please post or email them to me it would help a lot to know how its supposed to be,




  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Flowery Branch Georgia
    Posts
    2,742

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    I spent the day removing all of the foam ,the exhaust pipes and the decking under the bow. It looks like only the mains were replaced everything under the bow is original and rotten that explained why the pylon was getting loose . I ordered a new drivers floor pan from
    Atlanta Marine . The original floor is 5/8'' plywood. I must confess I am totally confused with the floor height . It looks to me that one secondary stringer is low and the other three are high. This enplanes why the floor was kinda dome shaped. I decided to put the top cap back on and carefully measure the location of the floor at the inner side walls. That should give me a side to side floor height to work with.Then the stringer height can be set to the underside of the floor. If all goes well I should end up with a flat deck that matches up with the sidewalls.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    1,393

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    Good luck with it. I enjoy reading stringer repair and restoration threads. I know from other projects that a hackjob repair from a PO can sometimes be worse than just dealing with a rusted/rotted out original. At least you'd have an easier template to work with had it not been done shoddily. What are your plans for this boat? Were you hoping to clean it up and flip it or adding to the fleet?
    Last edited by michael hunter; 02-10-2014 at 09:55 AM.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Flowery Branch Georgia
    Posts
    2,742

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    I think I will keep it for now the boat is in pretty good overall condition. I have all the mechanical systems done and my wife will do some repairs on the interior vinyl and once I get the floor sorted out it should be good to go. I don't want to build a show boat just a strong dependable skier. At this point I think I will sister to the secondary's and rebuild the structure at the sides the mains although sloppily done look solid and the mounts line up fine. I don't know what they were thinking when they tried to attach 3/4'' plywood to the 5/8 that was attached to the sidewalls. I thought they screwed up the stringer height as it corresponds to the floor height at the sidewalls. They cut the original floor about 4 '' from the sides and butted up the new floor to it . So I still have the exact location for the original floor on the sides . I removed the fiberglass from the top of the main stringers and found they only sistered new stringers to the originals. Here is my problem my floor is lower at the sides then at the center where it attaches to the main stringer. I was going to make the floor straight from side wall to side wall but I will have to cut the stringer height down about 3/4'' to do that. It looks like the original floor tapered down from the engine compartment to the sidewall. I am thinking to duplicate the way it was when it left the factory. If change it I may end up with problems when I put it back together.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Collegedale, TN
    Posts
    1,905

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    Good luck with this Michael. I know it'll be quality once you're done.

    I think you're right about the floors sloping away from the engine. My Saltare does it a little, but I feel like I've noticed it more on the smaller boats. I don't know, that might be imagined. The bottom line is that if the cap will still fit, there's at least a dozen different ways to construct the stringers and none of them are wrong with the exception of how the factory did it.

    Now, about the stickers. I do recognize the one over your electronics cover as from the Southern Supra Reunion (Haugy - you'll have to come down to get yours this year!). I actually need some of those Pleasure Craft stickers for the valve covers. Do you have a file for those?

    1986 Saltare
    Restoration link: http://supraboats.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=7839

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Flowery Branch Georgia
    Posts
    2,742

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    Snowed in for three days so the work continues I decided to rip out the poorly done secondary's and make gussets perpendicular to the side wall every 15'' . My biggest problem now is I have no material its supposed to be warmer today I'm pretty much stuck until the trucks start running.
    You are absolutely right about the reunion sticker I think its a nice add on.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Flowery Branch, GA
    Posts
    83

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    Let me know if you need any help Michael!
    kriley
    90 comp ts6m

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    171

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    Looking good so far! Looks like they used about. 100 cans of Great Stuff! Foam lol

    Did you decide to remove the main stringers?
    1985 Supra Comp TS6M
    351 Windsor - 240 HP
    Velvet Drive - 1:1
    Fully Rebuilt

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Windsor, Ontario
    Posts
    1,129

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    I think you better get opening all the stringers up and start fresh !! By the look of it they were sistered up with new wood next to the old tired ones. You can also see the notches from the old cross members which ran at a 90° to the stringers. Hack job supreme....

    2003 Supra Launch " Gravity Games Edition"
    Dodge ram CTD tow vehicles....

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Windsor, Ontario
    Posts
    1,129

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    Should of read more of your thoughts.....

    I would rip it all out and start fresh knowing of where the outside height of the floor should be and width of the engine area stringers it is all basic math and not hard to reconstruct better than factory. When building a house it is often more time consuming to try to use old structural members and make things work than just starting from scratch. I think this rebuild will fall in this category. Besides your build quality is too high not to do it !!

    2003 Supra Launch " Gravity Games Edition"
    Dodge ram CTD tow vehicles....

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