Inheriting 1989 Supra Comp TS6M

[ssa]

www.uscomposites.com for materials.

[92SupraComp]

Really? Refresh a motor with ONLY 200 hours? That thing is barely broken in yet! Heck our comp has easily 1800+ hours. And the motor still runs just fine. The Martinique had 650 hours, ran a little rough, new plugs, correct timing, replace exhaust hose, and carb rebuild its back to running perfectly smooth. Now has 900 hours just fine. I would NOT touch a thing on that motor. Except oil change BEFORE you run it!

I mean think about it. The 351W is a basic highly reliable well built low HP high torque small block V8 meant to last. Thats why they used it for so long. Our 2007 Suburban has 135,000 miles and 3,600 + hours. Only thing wrong is stupid AFM lifters starting to go. Other than that it runs great.

Change the oil, spray oil in every cylinder, let it soak, and dump 30:1 2-stroke down each barrel of the carb and if you can fill the carb bowls with the 2 stroke as well. This really helps the valve seats and stems seal up nicely. Oh, and disconnect the spark and crank it for at least 5 seconds to get the oil system primed. It takes 5 extra seconds to ensure nothing will run dry, remember, its a flat tappet motor...

[Jetlink]

Two things... First, the engine has been laid up for at least four years and secondly, who knows how accurate the hour meter is? According to my hour meter, I have less than 105 hours on an original engine from 1986...but that is because the meter in there now I installed to replace the original one that failed years ago on a previous owner. I hear what you are saying that at 200 hours it is practically brand new, or that is the thought.

To each their own I guess... He said that he was a confident motor guy and while it is out what more could it hurt? Personally, I would take the time to make sure that everything is up to my satisfaction, especially on anything that is considered a "project." Heck, I drove my boat home 8 hours from purchasing it and then tore the entire electrical system apart and spent an entire day getting the engine running right before it hit the water and that was on something that had not sat for four years or fell into the "project" category.

[92SupraComp]

Ok. Fine. Just last summer I got my dads 64 T-Bird thats sitting in our barn running for the first time in 15 years. Has been stored for 25 years, and the motor, a 390 FE, was re-built not long before it was put away. Pulled all the plugs, oiled each cylinder, oil and filter change, file the points, fill the carb with 2 stroke (32:1), dump some down barrel and she fired right up. And after just a few minutes it really smoothed out. It now starts up every time with one pump of the puddle on 25 year old gas. Ran it for an hour each weekend for several weekends on 2 stroke before hooking the fuel line back up. Treated that 390 real nice.

And the electrical side of things. I very much agree! I would like to meet the person who laid out the wiring diagram and ask "What the hell were you doing?" I over hauled our 1992 Comp and everything is much better. The only problem with CC wiring is pathetic grounds. Added some ground points to the dash in our CC and all is well for that boat.

[crystal waters]

-your boat weighs 2750 lbs and your trailer 600 lbs.
have pulled both a single and a double axle on comps and combrios over many miles and many years and would take a double any day of the week! Safety first and smoother ride second for both boat and the tow rig!

[cadunkle]

Regarding the engine I'd at minimum pull the pan and check main and rod bearings. If no visible wear and you don't want to spend much time or money on the engine put some oil in it, crank over with no plug till you have oil pressure, and do a compression check. If it checks out just clean it up, paint it, and drop it in. If there are any issues or you want more performance, now is the time, do the needful.

Regarding engine mount method... If I ever do stringers on one of these I'd like do space the stringers slightly farther out and do either a cradle or offshore style mounts with angle through bolted in the stringers as is common on jets and vdrives (go fast boats). Much more robust and no worries about stripping wood stringers with lags or such. More time and effort vs making factory style wood pads and lagging it close enough for the mounts to adjust, but worthwhile if the boat is a keeper.

[codemonkey82]

Sorry it has taken so long to update this thread. I now have the comp and it is sitting in a covered storage unit waiting for some real attention. I am in the process of taking an inventory of parts that need to be ordered along with a to-do list and ultimately waiting for the weather to cool in here in Texas before I dig in...

Here are pictures I took of the boat and the shape it is currently in.0825141500.jpgIMAG0020.jpgIMAG0022.jpgIMAG0026.jpgIMAG0028.jpg

[codemonkey82]

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[lively]

Where do you live in tx ?


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[codemonkey82]

Houston area lively...