PMGR starter.

[Brosh]

excellent, looks like no rain tonight so i can take the time and go through this, Thanks!

[Brosh]

OK now I am even more confused. Jumping did nothing I went through and the cable from the battery to the solenoid has 12.65v and 12.2v at the starter itself with the key in the on position. When the key is turned to start the jumper has 12.65v both at the remote solenoid and at the starter. I have confirmed that the single click is happening at the remote solenoid but beyond that nothing happens when I turn the key to start the motor. Previously whenbi had it wired wrong at the solenoid with the battery cable where the jumper is and vice versa the starter engaged like it should however I don't want this wiring configurations as it can cause damage to the teeth in some cases. Anymore thoughts? There has to be something I am missing but I can't for the life of me figure it out.

[ssa]

Just to clarify you have the positive cable from the battery running to a lug on the remote solenoid. Then from that same lug you have a battery cable running to the battery terminal on the starter. Then you have your small yellow jumper wire running from the other remote solenoid lug to the start terminal on the starter? With this wiring setup if you jump the lugs on the remote solenoid nothing happens?

[Cusefan78]

I may not be smart but why are you running two solenoids? Couldn't you just run the positive to the starter then the starter wire from the key to it? Isn't the setup you're running for a starter without a solenoid?

[Brosh]

Just to clarify you have the positive cable from the battery running to a lug on the remote solenoid. Then from that same lug you have a battery cable running to the battery terminal on the starter. Then you have your small yellow jumper wire running from the other remote solenoid lug to the start terminal on the starter? With this wiring setup if you jump the lugs on the remote solenoid nothing happens?

Yes that is how its wired and jumping the lugs does nothing.

[Brosh]

I don't know the exact details off the top of my head but bypassing the solenoid that is already in there can cause the starter to build up a charge somehow (I think that is what i remember reading) and cause it to engage while the engine is running ruining the teeth... Or something like that. I am on my phone so I don't have it in front of me.

[Brosh]

Well, i reached out to db electrical, i am thinking since everything else is right it has to be a bad starter, which is too bad as i have much to do to get the boat in the water and that is a set back... oh well all the lakes around me are no wake anyway because of high water levels...

[chris young]

running two solenoids? Couldn't you just run the positive to the starter then the starter wire from the key to it? Isn't the setup you're running for a starter without a solenoid?

That's what I thought when we were discussing this in the "weird heat soak problem" thread. The problem apparently with that setup is that the solenoid on the starter requires a quality supply of voltage and current to work properly, and that all has to be delivered through the key switch. It is recommended that you permanently jump the start and battery terminals on the starter and supply it from the remote solenoid. These types of starters draw quite a bit of current to pull in the solenoid and engage the starter so the more current capable the supply to the starter both S and Bat terminals the better.

So to be clear the way it should be wired is...

simple start.pdf

That being said, with the key in run there should be not be 12.2V at the starter. From what I've read so far, it's either a bad connection somewhere or a bad starter. If jumping it as Wotan posted didn't get anything, and you said wiring it differently did get it to go then the starter likely is not bad. I'd say the terminal at the battery is the first place I'd go.

If you want to get all the wiring out of the equation, take a set of jumper cables and connect both the black and red to the +ve on the battery and then connect one to the big terminal on the starter and as soon as you touch the S terminal with the other, it should go. If it doesn't, it can only be one of 3 things, battery is dead, ground is bad on the starter, or the starter is bad.

Good luck

[Brosh]

Why wouldn't i have 12.2 at the starter in the on position? the battery cable and the cable to the starter share the same lug on the remote solenoid and therefor the current would go through by default... the yellow wire that goes to the s terminal on the starter then has 12.6v when i turn the key to start... when i was reading about these starters everything i came up with is that the starter should always have power... if that is incorrect then my wiring must be incorrect too... i was also just thinking that if the starter has 12.2v and when i turn the key the "s" lug has 12.6v then both terminals are getting power and would effectively act the same as being jumped by a screwdriver... both terminals are receiving the power they need and the starter should engage, since it is not wouldn't that mean the starter is likely bad?

The diagram you have (which is how i wired it first, and it worked) looks like it may cause the starter run-on problem explained here
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=218409

[chris young]

My bad, I'm sorry you are absolutely right. Unless you wire it as I posted above, but either way, it shouldn't be 12.2 if you have 12.6 anywhere else. And key position shouldn't make a difference in this case. The link you posted looks interesting, I was not aware of the difference on these starters, I'll read though it as soon as I get a chance.