trans lockout button wired backwards

[skeeterfro]

Thanks. I'll just replace it. Better safe than sorry

[SquamInboards]

Thanks. I'll just replace it. Better safe than sorry

Just to be clear, the issue of starting in gear is very likely unrelated to the control box and will have to be addressed separately.

Actually, just for kicks I'd take the existing control box apart and see if it's repairable before replacing it.

[chris young]

Could you post a photo of the control? The part that's got me scratching my head is that if you pull out the neutral knob it won't start. That makes me suspect that you've got some other type of control that did not come with the boat that actually has electrical wiring going through it. As previously mentioned that knob (on our boats) merely disconnects the throttle lever from the transmission cable so you can move the throttle without moving the transmission lever.

[SquamInboards]

Could you post a photo of the control? The part that's got me scratching my head is that if you pull out the neutral knob it won't start.

I think it will start with that knob out, but the problem is that if he advances the throttle at all, even WITH the knob out, it will go into gear. So it's not disengaging that cable as you mentioned.

There are three different "neutral safety" things at play here:

1. Neutral throttle advance knob, the thing you pull out to advance throttle only.
2. Neutral safety switch, the electrical switch on the transmission itself, which interrupts the start circuit when the transmission is in gear.
3. Neutral "interlock," the little cup under the shift knob that you have to pull up to get the throttle lever out of neutral.

It seems like the OP is 0 for 3 on neutral safety mechanisms, which makes it harder to figure out exactly what's going on and how to fix it.

[skeeterfro]

I'll try to clarify, stock control box. Button pushed in, throttle in neutral, boat will crank. However, boat will also crank in any forward position. Pull knob out. Boat will not crank. When its running, I can pull out button and the rev in neutral. Shut boat off, will not crank till I push the button in. Also the cup on control lever is froze up, it won't budge. Here are my worries, small kids could start the boat in wide open throttle and just take off. I changed neutral safety switch and nothing changed.

[CJD]

I'd start with the control. It's obvious that it is screwed up. Once you have it functioning correctly...i.e. the neutral lock, then we can start trouble shooting the electrical cutout issues. I suspect there is an electrical switch inside your particular controler that can get sorted out once you fix it. If you have kids, you want the neutral lock to work!

[chris young]

I have to agree with CJD. I didn't think there was any connections at the controller, but there has to be. I noticed that you said you replaced the neutral safety switch, ( I'm assuming on the transmission). If this didn't fix the problem then it may be the actuator mechanism inside the transmission is broken. And perhaps someone installed a switch at the button to cure the problem but wired it backwards and gave up???

[skeeterfro]

I've decided to replace control box. Mainly because the neutral safety switch is totally locked up. What is the best replacement model for my boat. Mv-3 ski boat control or ch-2200 p both from sea soultions.

[skeeterfro]

http://www.seastarsolutions.com/wp-c...a2-CH2200P.pdf

http://www.seastarsolutions.com/wp-c.../mcda9-MV3.pdf
If there are better suited ones let me know.

[SquamInboards]

Thanks for the clarification. Very strange indeed. I think CJD and Chris Young are correct that there must be an electrical switch in the control. I am very curious what you will find when you open that up.

Personally I like the CH2200P better, it's closer to the stock control with the overall design and position of the throttle handle, etc. Has anyone else here replaced their old control with that model?