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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
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    Richmond, VA
    Posts
    40

    Default '06 Launch 24 Gravity - Audio Issues

    I was out enjoying a nice day on the lake today with some friends when one of my buddies pointed out that there wasn't any music coming from the tower speakers. A minor annoyance, I didn't really think anything of it at the time figuring that something must have been switched or changed somewhere resulting in them getting turned off. About half an hour later we had some down time so I started poking through the settings on the head unit (Factory Kenwood) and all of a sudden it started turning off and back on over and over. It will run for about 3 seconds, turn off, then turn back on and repeat.

    The boat is an '06 Launch 24 SSV Gravity Games with the factory Kenwood system. There is the in-dash head unit, two amps, a sub, 4 tower speakers, 2 bow speakers, and 4 speakers in the main seating area. It also has a remote for the system on the transom.

    I am thinking that maybe something has shorted in the speaker wiring and is overloading something in the head unit. Does anyone know how all these things are wired up? Like which speakers go to which amp and are any wired directly to the head unit? There must be some relation between the tower speakers going dead and the head unit malfunctioning right around the same time.

    I appreciate any insight on this!! Thanks!!
    2006 Launch 24 SSV Gravity Games w/8.1

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Let us know if you figure anything out. I have in 05 with similar problems. I figured there was a short somewhere but maybe it's something different if multiple boats are having the same issue. I have close to the same setup. Factory head unit, tower and in boat. 4 amps and 2 subs. Thanks.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    440

    Default

    I would start with checking battery voltage at the suspect components. Low voltage makes electronics do all kinds of weird stuff, as well as just just off. Next, try to duplicate the issue and note whether the head-unit and/or amps are actually powering off, going into a protect mode or its just the music thats going away. Amps will have a normal power light. They typically have a 2nd light to indicate trouble, or the normal light will change colors. This is a start to get you on the right path.
    Michael
    Mikes Liquid Audio

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Northern Colorado
    Posts
    1,593

    Default

    I assume you checked all the wires (starting at the batteries, going to the amps - all the speaker wires, etc) to make sure the connections are tight?
    2008 24 SSV, Gravity Games Edition.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Richmond, VA
    Posts
    40

    Default

    Heading up to the lake this afternoon to diagnose and hopefully fix. I'll report back on how it goes. Thanks for the tips!
    2006 Launch 24 SSV Gravity Games w/8.1

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Richmond, VA
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    Default

    Well, it's all working again - Here's what I figured out. There are speaker level (amplified) outputs on the head unit. These should not be connected to anything. On my boat, some yokel connected the front and rear speaker level outs to each other. I'm not sure why they have harness plugs on them that allow this, but they do and someone did. I'm honestly surprised that it ever worked in this configuration.

    I did some more investigating on the system because I was curious and people asked, so here's how it's all hooked up. (Factory System on Gravity Games 24 SSV).

    Amp 1 is a 4-channel Kenwood KAC-8402. This one is mounted to the right side wall of the battery compartment. It is fed by the left & right line level cables connected to the front line out on the head unit. The amp has two "sides" each with a left and right channel. The A side is connected to the two bow speakers. The B side is connected to the four speakers in the main seating area. I am not sure how the wired the 4 speakers. In retrospect, I could have tested the resistance and figured it out pretty easily. If anyone really wants to know I can test and report back. There are crossovers on this amp for each side, both should be set to high pass. Both sides on this amp are fed by the same line stereo line in.

    Amp 2 is a 4-channel Kenwood Excelon KAC-X40. This one is mounted to the back wall of the battery compartment. Like the first amp, it has two "sides". The A side is fed by a pair (stereo) of line out cables connected to the rear channel line outs on the head unit. The four tower speakers are connected to the A side and the A side high pass filter is turned on. Like the main seating area speakers, I'm not sure how they wired the four tower speakers to the two output connections, but I can figure it out if anyone wants to know. The B side of this amp is fed by the stereo sub woofer line out on the head unit. The sub woofer is a dual voice coil and is connected to both left and right outputs of the B side. The B side has a low pass filter turned on as well as bass boost settings.

    I tweaked some of the settings on the amps including turning up the gain on the subwoofer. When I did this it sounded awesome but made it so that when the bass hits hard, the display on the head unit dims and the system shuts down. All of this was done sitting on the trailer so the engine was off. It may or may not do this with the motor running. The key takeaway in either case is that the system would probably benefit from a capacitor for at least the amp with the sub but probably both amps. My batteries are new and I ran the boat all day on Friday so I don't think it's a battery charge issue.

    It's also important to note that the amps are connected directly (there is a fuse) to battery 2. This means that when your isolator is in the 1 position (normal setting) they can't draw any current from battery 1 when the engine is off and the voltage is below 14. This is what you want so you don't bass your way into not being able to start your boat. Based on the way it's all hooked up though I do think it's possible to bass your way into not having any power left in battery 2 to run your auto bilge.

    Hope this info is helpful!
    2006 Launch 24 SSV Gravity Games w/8.1

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
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    I tweaked some of the settings on the amps including turning up the gain on the subwoofer. When I did this it sounded awesome but made it so that when the bass hits hard, the display on the head unit dims and the system shuts down.
    This certainly indicates a battery voltage issue

    The key takeaway in either case is that the system would probably benefit from a capacitor for at least the amp with the sub
    In all the years ive been doing marine audio, ive never had a need to install a CAP, but I have removed a few.

    It's also important to note that the amps are connected directly (there is a fuse) to battery 2. This means that when your isolator is in the 1 position (normal setting) they can't draw any current from battery 1 when the engine is off and the voltage is below 14. This is what you want so you don't bass your way into not being able to start your boat. Based on the way it's all hooked up though I do think it's possible to bass your way into not having any power left in battery 2 to run your auto bilge.
    Sounds like your switch is wired in a less than ideal configuration.
    Michael
    Mikes Liquid Audio

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Richmond, VA
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    40

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    Curious why did you remove the capacitors? Is there a reason I wouldn't want one in a marine application? How do you recommend I address the voltage issue?

    Also, the isolator is wired in the factory configuration from Supra. How do you recommend it be hooked up?
    2006 Launch 24 SSV Gravity Games w/8.1

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
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    440

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    The best way to address a voltage issue in a boat, is to add more battery Ah. That may be a larger battery or more batteries. If you have low voltage now, you will still have low voltage with a CAP. they dont make or create voltage, just simply store current, up to the level of the battery/alternator. Proper size cabling, will also reduce the voltage sag at the amp(s). The reason CAPs are really not needed in boats, is because we done have issues with dimming headlights when the sub hits, like we do in cars In all seriousness, a CAP in a boat or other occasional-use vehicle, can be a liability to the batteries, rather than an asset to the stereo.
    Michael
    Mikes Liquid Audio

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Richmond, VA
    Posts
    40

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    Thanks! This is great info. I'm with you on the wiring upgrade, the factory amp wiring leaves a lot to be desired and I see what you are saying about the capacitor. I hate to throw away the batteries as the previous owner had them replaced at the beginning of this season. I'll start with the wiring and see where that gets me. If it's still an issue next summer, I'll look into some Optimas.
    2006 Launch 24 SSV Gravity Games w/8.1

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