Try Seadog 4" flush vent
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Try Seadog 4" flush vent
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
86 Saltare
I think they are 3 inch. I found some. Thanks!
Do you have any more photos of how the back seat is laid out? I'm liking it and am curious what it looks like from additional angles.
Thanks -
Chris
1. CK racing. I will post some pictures soon. So I have dumped all kinds of money into getting this thing to get it running right. The engine runs GREAT and this baby puts out a huge wake with the custom ballast tanks, BUT i noticed my drive shaft is spitting a decent amount of water into the boat. I read it's normal to do a few drips per minute. Mine is quite a bit more than that. I would have to run my bilge pump about every 20 minutes if i don't fix it. My boat guy quoted $500 minimum to repack and seal the shaft? Is this necessary? Can I just tighten the bolts? I tried but i don't even have a wrench that big at the moment. How hard of a fix would it be if i tried it on my own? I have searched the forums quite a bit and will continue to do so.
2. How much am I looking at to get a cover made with buttons? It already has buttons around the boat, but I was never given the actual cover. I am guessing it would be $500 plus.... Not in my budget at the moment but was curious as I may be able to keep my boat on the water.
3. I've spent probably 10-12 hours peeling the crappy rhino liner that someone sprayed on the tower than I got with my boat off. I used chisels and knives and I am almost done. I plan on powder coating my tower white. Do people do that? Will it look nice and will it last?
Thanks Guys.
I wouldn't pay $500 to repack a shaft gland. You're talking like $5 or less of flax rope. I use the gore-tex virtually dripless stuff. Hardly drips at all when adjusted to not run real hot. Depending on how much of a pain your coupler is to get apart and how far out of adjustment your engine alignment is it could be a full day job, or could just be a few hours. You'll need a 2/3 jaw puller or prop puller for the prop. May as well do cutlass bearings while the shaft is out. Use a sawzall or hack saw to slice them if they fight you. Coupler you'll need some all thread and washers/nuts and a socket or other spacer. Once you break it free put the socket between the trans output shaft and shaft and tighten the all thread between flange and coupler, it'll press the shaft out. Lube threads with oil or antiseize. It's straightforward. Then replace packing rope with 2 or 3 rows of rope, however many fit, using angle cuts (not straight) and stagger joints. Wrap the packing rope around the shaft to make your cuts perfect length. Reinstall and adjust engine alignment for .003" or less gap in any position between coupler and trans output flange. You can probably get it within .001" or so.
A custom snap cover with Sunbrella meterial made for my Saltare was about $750. Two piece and entirely covers the windshield. Mine did not have snaps so he had to measure and install those. Not a fan of the look of snaps, but practicality and ease of use won in this case.
Thanks for the additional picture post. Good luck finishing out and having fun on the water.
-Chris
Cadunkle. Thank you for the in depth reply. Although I am not sure I was able to understand but a few words LOL my uncle owns an older Mastercraft and has repacked his before. He is gonna help me out, but told me I need to order the packing rope and need to find what size I need. Can someone help with what size to buy and how long? What's a good website to buy from and is Gorex the best to go with? He did not mention any other washers or other stuff to buy. Can you specify if ill need anything else? What about that rubber casing that is below the dripping shaft? Looks like a large hose wrapping around the shaft. I know i read it is probably not leaking from there, but it looks very very old! I will show him your post though As well. Thanks very much. So glad I didn't pay $500, but after reading that foreign language (stagger joints, coupler, output flange) I probably would have if it weren't for my uncle. Haha.
Thanks supra forum.
If pictures are helpful, the re-packing process is described well here: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box.
Skidim.com sells the packing material and may be able to help with the size. I think 1/4" is the most common.