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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    219

    Default 1988 Supra Mariah: Floor and Stringer Restoration and more...

    I have a 1988 Supra Mariah which I bought this past summer. This is my first boat and I thought it was a good deal at the time. It had a wrap and a tower which made it look newer than it was. I am not a fan of the blue camo hydroturf, but I will suffice for now as long as I was able to get out and wakeboard. I was able to use it almost all summer and despite having a low freeboard, she puts out a decent wakesurf wake.






    It had some issues with going in reverse because my prop side coupler nut would unscrew. This happened to me 4 times on the water. The first time I didn't have the tools to get it on so I had to swim it to a nearby dock which lucky had a boat ramp. I bought the appropriate size rachet to get it on the next day and tightened as much as I can. I did notice that the the threads on the shaft were a little worn...as if it was tightened while misaligned. The next I went out and used reverse it backed out again. I bought lock tight thinking that would cure the problem...of course it didn't and it came off again. Unfortunately, I was getting used to holding my breath underwater while another person tightens the nut on deck. I just stayed off the reverse for the remainder of the summer.

    Wanting to be able to use reverse, I did a little more inspecting and research. I saw that the keyway was worn out a little on the shaft but more so on the coupler. In reverse, the shaft would slip inside the coupler and unscrew the nut. I brought the coupler to a machine shop to recut the keyway. I installed it and the vibration was really bad. Thinking back, I know there shouldn't be any play at all in the key way. Looking for the quick fix, I ended up buying a new shaft and coupler from skidim. After getting it installed, I noticed that I was a little misaligned and upon further inspection noticed that the stringer on the portside was hollow and the bolt was able to spin freely.

    Initially, my plan was to do a partial repair of the stringer only on the engine mount area. I cut out the portside and some parts were coming out like compost and even mud. The starboard side was actually pretty decent. I figure since I was doing on side might as well do the other. I cut inspection windows in the soft spots on the floor saw that the foam was soaked. There was water intrusion from the screw holes used to secure the helm seat and the aft seats to the sole and no limber holes for the water to drain. My next thought was to do a "cap on" floor/stringer restore, but having a soft spot in the play pen, I know a "cap off" restoration will be in the near future anyways. I read a few stringer/floor restoration threads on here, but I never thought that I would be writing one myself...SOB!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by flipz96; 07-10-2015 at 04:34 PM. Reason: Added photobucket linked photos

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    219

    Default

    IMG_0197.jpg
    Used a fork lift to get the engine out.

    IMG_0220.jpg
    Trying to determine where I should start/stop my repair.

    IMG_0224.jpg
    Its not looking good.

    IMG_0268.jpg
    Looking like compost and mud as I dig deeper.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Edmond, OK
    Posts
    2,508

    Default

    Definitely looks like widespread rot. I wouldn't do this halfway.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    219

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Okie Boarder View Post
    Definitely looks like widespread rot. I wouldn't do this halfway.
    I'm definitely moving forward with a cap off stringer/floor restoration. I removed the rub rail/screws/rivets this weekend. For ease of moving, I also removed all my upholstery and my wake tower. I should be able to pop the deck off this week. I disconnected the gas tank hose, the hoist rings on the bow and transom, and the blowers. The only thing else that I can think of is the steering cable. Is there anything else I'm missing? Also...is it easier to disconnect from the steering wheel or the rudder end. The gas tank is still in there so I'm thinking at the steering wheel. I lost daylight so I didn't have time to look.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Edmond, OK
    Posts
    2,508

    Default

    I ended up disconnecting both ends of the steering cable, but started with the steering wheel end. I think you've hit on everything that needs to be disconnected.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Lake St Clair, MI
    Posts
    272

    Default

    I searched and searched for 1988 Supra Mariah info a few months back when I started my project to no avail. Glad to see someone else tackling the same exact boat. I suspect you've read through my thread as well. I was in the same position as you, do a partial restoration or do the full cap off resto. Cap off is the only way to go, and removing the top was actually the easiest thing I have done on this whole project. Don't forget to tackle the transom while you're at it. Even if it is decent/OK, it is an easy fix. No sense in removing the cap and not replacing the transom while you're at it.

    I am interested to see how your project turns out. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me since I am doing the same exact thing, but a few months ahead. Good Luck! Take tons of pics!
    Last edited by lmnelson86; 01-06-2015 at 04:50 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    219

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    Quote Originally Posted by lmnelson86 View Post
    I searched and searched for 1988 Supra Mariah info a few months back when I started my project to no avail. Glad to see someone else tackling the same exact boat. I suspect you've read through my thread as well. I was in the same position as you, do a partial restoration or do the full cap off resto. Cap off is the only way to go, and removing the top was actually the easiest thing I have done on this whole project. Don't forget to tackle the transom while you're at it. Even if it is decent/OK, it is an easy fix. No sense in removing the cap and not replacing the transom while you're at it.

    I am interested to see how your project turns out. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me since I am doing the same exact thing, but a few months ahead. Good Luck! Take toins of pics!
    Thanks man! I have to admit I was kind of excited to see your thread. I should have the deck off this weekend and remove the floors. My plan is to manually digitize the stringers and floors in CAD so that it can be cut on the 3 Axis and have it for anyone else that may be interested. I am a design engineer and I have access to a CNC 3 Axis router with a vacuum table. I am a better designer than a woodworker...plus I am all about contributing to the group.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    219

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    These are photos from this past weekend. Nothing special. Just took out the upholstery, tower, and rubrail. I'm fortunate to have a job with extra space for me to all my work in and have access to fork lifts, routers, grinders, etc.

    IMG_0343.jpg

    IMG_0342.jpg

    IMG_0341.jpg

    IMG_0305.jpg

    I'm am also lucky to have a girlfriend that is willing to help me when she can. She might kill me for posting this. LOL.

    The PO installed a electric fuel pump which I used to drain the tank. I'll probably remove it completely once I get everything back in and strictly rely on the mechanical pump. Its just another thing to worry about clogging/failing.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Lake St Clair, MI
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    272

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    Quote Originally Posted by flipz96 View Post
    These are photos from this past weekend. Nothing special. Just took out the upholstery, tower, and rubrail. I'm fortunate to have a job with extra space for me to all my work in and have access to fork lifts, routers, grinders, etc.

    IMG_0343.jpg

    IMG_0342.jpg

    IMG_0341.jpg

    IMG_0305.jpg

    I'm am also lucky to have a girlfriend that is willing to help me when she can. She might kill me for posting this. LOL.

    The PO installed a electric fuel pump which I used to drain the tank. I'll probably remove it completely once I get everything back in and strictly rely on the mechanical pump. Its just another thing to worry about clogging/failing.

    How the hell did you get the observers seat out? I'm not sure if the PO rigged mine, but I cannot find the bolts that come through the backside of the seat. So for now I left it alone.

    Thanks!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    219

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    Quote Originally Posted by lmnelson86 View Post
    How the hell did you get the observers seat out? I'm not sure if the PO rigged mine, but I cannot find the bolts that come through the backside of the seat. So for now I left it alone.

    Thanks!
    If I remember correctly there were 3 nuts.
    - One on the upper left (reach through the speaker hole)
    - One on the lower left (after you remove the hinged seat, reach underneath and up)
    - One at on the upper right (in the battery compartment)

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