new engine build or buy long block ?

[lively]

ok so what if i buy a rebuild kit and send the block to machine shop for line hone and new bearings ect .. i want more hp , but i dont want to go over 3k

[lively]

http://www.blainesmotorsupply.com/in...ufacturer=Ford

this is the place im talking about

[CJD]

I'm a bit wary. I read through the website, but could not find a list of exactly what they are providing in the rebuild. Just, "High quality", which is rather non-specific.

Here is what I recommend as a minimum for a rebuild...

Crank regrind to nearest undersized and new tri-metal bearing inserts.
Bore block to .030" or .060" oversize. This will raise displacement to 355 or 360 and help torque.
New pistons and rings.
New rod bearing inserts to match crank grind.
Valve job as necessary...may require new valves and guides...possibly seats.
Check block and head for cracks/warpage. Deck if necessary.
New gaskets.

That gets you a fresh engine that will run unbelievably better than one with 80psi compression! I would guess the cost to be at least $2k, including parts and machine work. Now, with the remaining $1k...

Decent camshaft and lifters to match. If you can swing a roller cam, it is well worth the cost. Finally a decent intake manifold. In both cases you want maximize low end torque. Low end Torque is what moves the boat...so don't get bogged Down chasing horsepower, which will leave you with a boat that bogs out of the hole and then comes on above 2k rpm.

Anyway...just an idea. There are a million directions you can take to get there.

[UKandH]

As cruisefan had posted, the Summit Racing engine option looks a good. I use Summit racing a hell of a lot and have nothing but praise for them. Top quality stuff at decent value.

[lively]

so does anyone know what a velvet drive will handle HP wise ?

[UKandH]

I have happily put 400HP through a 1:1 drive with no issues after a year of use, im not sure about the 1:23 drives though.

I would not consider any more than 400 though.

[Wulphie]

so does anyone know what a velvet drive will handle HP wise ?

A lot more than you will safely put in a ski boat.

Keep in mind that offshore boats use them coupled to super speedmaster, arneson surface drives and some kaama drives.

[chris young]

Right out of the velvet drive manual;
71c/10-17 255HP@4200RPM.
72c/10-18 380HP@4200RPM.
73c/10-06 560HP@4200RPM.

I have two variants of the manual on my computer, and neither show a 1.23 as an available ratio, so I'm not sure what that means. I'm pretty sure that I have a 71c on my boat, but I'd have to check to be sure.

[lively]

i have the 71c / 10-17 , i wanna push for 300 - 350 at the crank .. I have been pricing parts / vs long block and it seems building would be the way to go .. and i have some good friends that work at a machine shop so we will see

[TitanTn]

I recently rebuilt my 454. Some of the work included:

- turned crank
- new pistons and connecting rods
- new cam
- new lifters
- new rings, bearings and gaskets
- bored .30 over
- new oil pump
- valve job
- resurfaced heads
- valve guides and seals

I did everything except the machine work and my total cost was about $1,500. It can be done for a reasonable cost, but you have to resist the temptation (and tempting from friends) to go with performance parts. I could have easily spent double that, but I'm happy with the performance of a fresh motor. I'm not pulling 5 skiers or racing anyone. I want an engine I can rely on and that's what was built. As the guy said earlier - it's what floats your boat. Everyone has a slightly different angle on what makes them happy.