2008 24SSV Perfect pass headaches

[tg0824SSVGG]

Have you called PP directly? They were always helpful to me - but since this is built into the Supra controller software, they may be less helpful. But give it a shot if you have not.

[sailnaked6842]

Tried that too but they said they didn't know much about the system since they licensed the software to Medallion who designed the gauges and interfaces. Called Medallion and all I got was "Yeah, we have no idea why it's acting like that." In truth they were actually a lot more helpful but in that way where someone is trying to help you but you can tell they don't really know what to do. He spent a lot of time on the phone trying to find a solution or helpful documents but couldn't find any wiring diagrams that showed more than the 36 pin connector which only included the PP on/off wire. And tracing other wires as they leave the gauges is impossible since they all merge and run down the side. Also cleaned the connectors at the engine but don't see any improvement. At this point it is starting to sound like a computer problem. I'll try calling Supra and see what they say since I don't remember if I've talked to them.

[Zim]

Ah, yeah mine reads speed accurately on both the analog and digital gauge, even when PP is engaged it will read speed. It'll show the speed set point, highlight the actual speed, randomly tell you W or ask for more throttle even if you're above the set point. It's very annoying. Doesn't work on rpm mode either, although it may be more consistent? It was set for 3000 RPM and stayed level at 3000 when we were heading in, but once it was set for over 3000 rpm it wouldn't move to it and just stayed at 3000.

As for the wheel I think it's okay since it reads speed accurately on both gauges. Only thing that makes sense to me is a communications error from the throttle to the engine (when PP is engaged) or PP is having a communications error with the throttle, ECU or computer, which ever allows PP to control the engine, since it will work fine with PP off. It's like PP is intermittently instructing to speed up or slow down

Have you actually looked at the paddle wheel and verified none of the paddles are broken or missing? Start with the easy least expensive stuff. Computer issue doesn't sound like the culprit. If it's a signal issue, it could actually be the triducer that sends the signal, which you can test for with a multimeter. Wires are all color coded, so you should be able to identify which is which going into that 32 pin connector when you verify the color of the wires at the sending unit/triducer.

[Zim]

Here's a diagram that shows the wires coming off the paddle wheel triducer

http://www.bakesonline.com/images/Me...eWheelTest.jpg

That's how you test it. Confirm that's good first.

[sailnaked6842]

Thanks for the diagram, I'll check it out but always assumed it was good to go since the speed was always accurate and never varying wildly

[sailnaked6842]

So, finally had an opportunity to check the paddle wheel last night but ran into a road block...where is the plug that exits the triducer? There was some zip ties under the deck near the triducer and no 4 wire plug I could find under the dash with the wire colors it called for. Also only looks like 1 wire exiting the triducer, but it could be bundled. Tried to open it but it's all epoxied in as well so getting the colors/tracer was nearly impossible without cutting the wire exiting.

[Zim]

So, finally had an opportunity to check the paddle wheel last night but ran into a road block...where is the plug that exits the triducer? There was some zip ties under the deck near the triducer and no 4 wire plug I could find under the dash with the wire colors it called for. Also only looks like 1 wire exiting the triducer, but it could be bundled. Tried to open it but it's all epoxied in as well so getting the colors/tracer was nearly impossible without cutting the wire exiting.

On my boat (20v) if you pull up the rear seat that covers the V-drive, the triducer should be offset to the port side right around that area. The wire coming off of it is bundled. Follow that and you may have to pull the wire out from under the flooring a little to find the connector. There should be a connector there down by the v-drive area though. It won't be up behind the dash, it will be maybe 2 feet or so off the triducer.

Also, I was recently having PP problems (as of last weekend), where my PP would indicate that my RPM's were much different than the analog gauge, and would never engage. Called PP, and they told me to unplug the paddle wheel connector at the brain box of PP (you don't have this since the software is integrated i believe). The rep said that a bad triducer can send high frequency noise that messes with the way PP works. It could just be that your paddle wheel assembly is bad as well, causing this noise, and causing the same type of issue I was having. If you can find that plug, unplug it and go try running in RPM mode with your boat, and see if you have any engagement or surging issues. These triducers definitely go bad though, and if it is bad, take a look at this (I'm buying one of these also).

It replaces the paddlewheel with a GPS unit. Instead of your computer receiving a speed signal from the paddle wheel, this replicates it using a GPS signal rather than that innacurate paddle wheel. Direct plug and play replacement. May be worth looking into if you test and find the paddle wheel signal isn't consistent.
http://nauticlaugic.com/nl4-sr%20packages.html

[tg0824SSVGG]

Thanks for that Zim! I had asked PP about going GPS - but they said I would have to buy a whole new unit, since the brains are in the software.

Buying this is MUCH cheaper than a new triducer. I would try this next time. You still need the triducer for water temp.

Do we know this works with the medallion software (and not the normal PP separate unit)?

[Zim]

Thanks for that Zim! I had asked PP about going GPS - but they said I would have to buy a whole new unit, since the brains are in the software.

Buying this is MUCH cheaper than a new triducer. I would try this next time. You still need the triducer for water temp.

Do we know this works with the medallion software (and not the normal PP separate unit)?

Yes, it's been confirmed it works on other sites. They have two separate versions... up to 2006, and 2007+ (when medallion software was integrated). Works regardless of which version you have. You still keep the triducer for the water temp portion. My boat doesn't have that on the gauge so its not important to me. There's a separate plug on the nauti-logic unit that plugs in to keep the water temp function. Works just like a paddle wheel, just running off GPS.

[sailnaked6842]

Alright, unfortunately work has been taking over my life for the last few weeks so I haven't been able to take a look at it so haven't had time to look at the transducer again.

As for the Nautic Logic, this industry has been waiting a long time for a product like this. It's going on the upgrade list...even quicker if this transducer is bad. Is the only way to check for the high frequency signal to disconnect the paddlewheel and run in RPM mode or do you know if there's a way to check with a multimeter?