1989 Supra TS6M Pro Comp. Rebuild

[codemonkey82]

Its a lot of work . Why did you start this in prime boating time. Was it not useable with the old stringers for the rest of the season. A couple places to get supplies US Composites for resin,glue and glass matting . Rot doctor for CPES [clear penetrating epoxy sealer].

Unfortunately Michael the stringers were rotten to the point the engine mount lags were ripping out of the main stringers and the floor board was giving in. The boat was also given to me by a family member who had already removed one of the stringers. I have two weeks off of work and decided that now was the best time to get a good start on this project.

[codemonkey82]

Let the fiberglass grinding/sanding begin.DSC05593.jpgDSC05594.jpgDSC05595.jpgDSC05596.jpg

[cadunkle]

I also need to know if I should remove all thru-hull and thru-transom bolts and reseal with 5200 or is it a 'if it ain't leaking don't touch it' kind of a thing? The goal of this rebuild is to never have to tear this far into this boat again.

As someone currently resealing platform brackets, I would reseal everything below the water line if I was doing a stringer job and it was all easily accessible. I'm using 4200 on my platform brackets in case they need to come off at some point if they leak again. I used 5200 for my perfect pass paddlewheel as I figure that shouldn't ever need to come off.

[flipz96]

I also need to know if I should remove all thru-hull and thru-transom bolts and reseal with 5200 or is it a 'if it ain't leaking don't touch it' kind of a thing? The goal of this rebuild is to never have to tear this far into this boat again.

I would change out the lower transom boards while you are at it. It shouldn't take long to get them out. Mine didn't seem that bad, covered up. Luckily I dug it out because water was definitely soaking my transom boards. I would reseal everything with at least 4200.

[codemonkey82]

Thank you cadunkle

flipz, what is the easiest way to dig out the lower transom boards?

[codemonkey82]

When I put the swim platform bolts back in along with any other 'thru-hull/thru-transom' bolts do I just put 5200 or 4200 on the threads and around the washer and bolt heads?

[flipz96]

Thank you cadunkle

flipz, what is the easiest way to dig out the lower transom boards?

I used a diamond cutoff tool to cut it out and a crow bar to get behind it. Make sure to use a board behind the bar to avoid damaging the glass when prying.

[codemonkey82]

Okay guys, sorry for all the questions this is my first rebuild and I want to make sure I get it right. I pulled the thru-transom bolts (swim platform, ski-hook, tow bolts) and it looks like the steel (maybe aluminum) plates were sealed with a white silicon (the silicon was beginning to peel loose) and the bolts were also coated with silicon and it looks like the silicon was disintegrating. I am planning on using 5200 to secure the plates and possibly even fiber glassing around the edges. My question is what should I use to coat the bolts? It seems like silicon will just begin to pull loose or disintegrate after a certain period of time. DSC05603.jpg

[codemonkey82]

1. Looking at the transom boards it seems that one board runs the full length of the transom and then additional boards are applied behind the areas where any thru-transom bolts exist (swim platform, ski-hook, tow bolts). Am I looking at this correctly? DSC05598.jpgDSC05600.jpgDSC05601.jpgDSC05598.jpg

2. I am looking at the thru-transom exhaust ports and I see what looks like wood. From what I can tell the wood is not rotten and is in good shape but was only coated with what looks like silicon. I was thinking about just applying resin before I replace the exhaust ports and then gel-coating around them once they are screwed in place.DSC05597.jpg

flipz, do you have any pictures from when you removed the transom boards?

[wotan2525]

I also need to know if I should remove all thru-hull and thru-transom bolts and reseal with 5200 or is it a 'if it ain't leaking don't touch it' kind of a thing? The goal of this rebuild is to never have to tear this far into this boat again.

I would. Those backing blocks look like they've been done by a previous owner and look to be untreated wood? You'll want to use plastic or aluminum plates so that you don't need to worry about them again. I'd use nylick nuts and 4200 (5200 is PERMANENT!)