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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    8

    Default First time winterizing 1985 Sunsport

    Probably beating a dead horse topic wise, but I want to get this right.

    As we are heading towards the colder months (freezing cold months in Vermont) I am starting to think ahead to what I need to do to winterize my 1985 Sunsport.

    I've never winterized a boat and brought my previous boat (Mercrusier 3.0 I/O) to the marine mechanic for winterizing in the past. I want to do this one myself.

    So, what are the steps to winterizing this boat for the first time? Previous owner suggested unclasping the main water hose, put in a funnel, start the boat and dump in 4 to 6 gallons of RV antifreeze. When it begins spurting out the exhaust stop adding it. At the same time, have someone spray fogging oil into the carb. And add fuel stabilizer before doing any of this so the treated fuel has the chance to get into the system.


    Am I way off. Any other things I need to do. I have to get this right....


    Thank you-

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    N.W. Suburbs Chicago, IL
    Posts
    2,307

    Default

    Start adding fuel stabilizer to the tank before you fill it for the last time of the season, be sure to run the boat for about 15-20 minutes to give the treated fuel an opportunity to get through to the carb. I don't fog the carb at all, never have. Instead, I run the boat, warm the oil, change the filter and oil, run the boat again to make sure the job is done and to also circulate clean oil through the engine before lay up. Then I pull the trans fluid and change it as well.

    Then, I will pull the cooling system apart and remove all the water that I can from the system with air, there are five plugs that come out between the block, the manifolds and the "J tube" before the raw water pump. Also, be sure to note both halves of the raw water pump with way the two halves mate up and which way is "up" or the correct way to install it for drawing water in to cool the engine as you are going to take this off completely to remove the impeller. You can put the whole thing together again and snug it up or loosely like I do after getting rid of all the water that I can manage.

    Then, I pull the spark plugs wires and plugs one at a time and fog the cylinders one by one. After I get all eight done, I bump the starter a few times real quick. You don't want it to start but just turn over briefly a few times to get that fogging oil to coat the cylinders.

    After that, I pull the battery and interior, vacuum it all out, let it dry and then store it in an enclosed, non climate controlled unit without access from October until March or April without antifreeze.

    Main thing is take your time and try not to rush it. When I did this the first time, I had a friend help me and it took us over an hour or so. Now I can knock it out in under an hour easy.
    '86 Comp TS6M - Reborn 2016
    Riding a HO Sports CX Ski

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    645

    Default

    On most boats the heads and intake are iron. The only way to preserve the insides from rust is fogging during the final shutdown.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Syracuse NY
    Posts
    934

    Default

    Agree with everything the only other thing I do is after I drain everything I pull the intake line and drop it in a five gallon pale of antifreeze. I then run the motor till antifreeze comes out the exhaust. Only reason I do this step is for peace of mind there is no water left in the system. Changing the oil is very important. Old oil is acidic and will rot your oil pan

    1995 supra labrisa
    Pro boss gt40
    GPS Ridesteady
    Pioneer headunit kicker speakers

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Farmington, CT
    Posts
    208

    Default

    i have an '88 sunsport and am in CT, so pretty much the same winter that you have. it's stored outside as well, so that's about the coldest you can get on the engine internals. i've done the following for the past 5 seasons without any issue.

    1. fill the gas tank full and put stabil in it.
    2. let the motor run to operating temperature on hose water. take off the spark arrestor once the motor has warmed up, to prep for fogging. bucket method works best for running the motor, rather than a fake-a-lake because of the next step.
    3. have a bucket with 5 gallons of RV antifreeze ready to run through the motor. side note: i replace the impeller every spring, so i also run the motor for ~15-30 seconds with no water to absorb any moisture in the system (some people do that, some don't). run the RV AF through the motor until it comes out the rear exhaust ports. this will probably only take 2-3 gallons before it runs out of the back, but might as well run all 5 to be sure.
    4. once you are down to a gallon or so remaining of AF, spray fogging oil into the carb on both sides. spray a little at a time to make sure it gets in all 4 barrels without stalling, then soak it with fogging oil down the carb until the motor stalls.
    5. drain old oil while the motor is still warm. you don't want to leave used oil in there all winter as it is more acidic once used.
    6. replace oil filter, re-fill with fresh oil to proper level.
    7. crank motor for a few seconds with the coil wire removed, to circulate new oil.
    8. spray fogging oil on moving parts/cables, i.e. carb linkage.
    9. loosen alternator and raw water pump belts until they are slack.
    10. pull batteries.

    i also get a few buckets of damp-rid and put one up front, two in the back to absorb any moisture in the boat while sitting over the winter. some people put dryer sheets around the boat to do the same. might be a good idea to use a wet-vac on the carpets to get any excess moisture out, if your carpet isn't excessively dry when you are wrapping it for the winter. i also pull all the seat cushions and store them somewhere dry, to let everything air out over the winter.
    '88 Sunsport, 2250lbs ballast, automated surf system, home made surf exhaust, surf flap, ACME 913, Krypt 6.5 HLCD's, Perfect Pass Stargazer

    2007 Centurion Typhoon to be upgraded this winter!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Wolcottville, IN
    Posts
    761

    Default

    Is it that time already for the Winterization thread?

    There are 2 types of people.

    1. pull the block plugs and drain the water

    2. run it to operating temp and suck down 5 gallons of Antifreeze.

    If you do the latter make SURE you are at operating temp and that your Tstat has opened.

    If you search winterization, there was a thread last year where someone gave the specifics of how much water will delude anti freeze and make it less effective.

    In NE Indiana there is a place you can store indoors and heated for 400-500 a year...

    Good Luck!
    86 Saltare


  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    N.W. Suburbs Chicago, IL
    Posts
    2,307

    Default

    I think Doc posted that info.
    '86 Comp TS6M - Reborn 2016
    Riding a HO Sports CX Ski

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Syracuse NY
    Posts
    934

    Default

    It really stinks we are starting to talk about this already. I have only put around 5 hours on my boat this year.

    1995 supra labrisa
    Pro boss gt40
    GPS Ridesteady
    Pioneer headunit kicker speakers

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    N.W. Suburbs Chicago, IL
    Posts
    2,307

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cusefan78 View Post
    It really stinks we are starting to talk about this already. I have only put around 5 hours on my boat this year.
    More than me. I think I am just under an hour and I would say all but half an hour was accumulated running on my trailer doing systems checks.
    '86 Comp TS6M - Reborn 2016
    Riding a HO Sports CX Ski

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