$4000 later

[Salty87]

Replace the pump (again)....don't replace the pump....

Test the pump. You or the next mechanic will have to anyway if this mechanic hasn't/won't. Tossing parts at a problem rarely has a good outcome.

[Cusefan78]

So don't take this the wrong way but the mechanic is never going to get this boat right. It's been almost two months. If you want your boat repaired pull it and bring the guy to small claims court. $4k is absurd money to throw at a boat and still have the original problem. I doubt you'll ever see a dime of it back but just having it on record that this guy screwed you should make some of the wound heal a bit. I'm kind of over this thread. We have all tried to help you. Not really sure what else we can do Other then flying out and spending two hours repairing it ourselves. If you try selling the boat you'll never recoup a fraction of what you have into it. Pull the boat and I'm sure any of us will walk you through repairing it correctly. This really isn't brain surgery if it's overheating it can only be a few things. I would be glad to FaceTime you when you get it and help out.

[bens250ex]

I've personally rebuilt the Sherwood pump on my boat, all you need is a small press... One from harbor would do the trick..

[Cusefan78]

He needs to see if it's the pump first. If I was him the 4K would steer me away from buying more stuff till the issue is figured out.

[docdrs]

pull the intake hose off the intake then attach a hose to it and see if it will suck water out of a pail.....if it does not then the pump is no good.
imo. when winterizing i remove it from my v drive and let it suck up antifreeze. Use a clear braided hose so you can see it sucking. 02 if you are running it out of the water on a fake a lake the pump will always look good

[Awill10291]

Pulled her out of storage today. Have some more funds to put into the Beast. Never going back to that mechanic. **NOTE: STILL OVERHEATING. It's NOT the thermostat, regular water pump, imperller, or THE HEADS. Had the heads taken to a machine shop and grinded down. Raw water pump was never replaced. Only Impeller. Unfortunately almost no mechanic/boat shop will take a look at my boat because it's so old and has the engine swap. Does ANYONE know of a knowledgable boat mechanic in the Omaha/Council Bluffs/or Lincoln area? Would anyone be down to skype me with my boat hooked up to a fake a lake to determine the overheating issue? Talked to a few guys at the boat show this past Sunday, and they said it's likely the raw water pump. Either needs a rebuild or a whole new pump like other have mentioned on this forum (although according to mechanic that had worked on it the last year it had plently of water flow when hooked up to a fake a lake).... I did talk to a boat mechanic in Omaha today that said it's likely the timing and that the timing needs to be exact and tuned up perfectly in order for the 460 truck engine to run at a normal temperature. He said that should be the first thing I should have a mechanic check and that at idle should be set at 9? and at 32 or 33 when at TOTAL ADVANCE... Of course none of that terminology means anything to me. Any more advice/help from anyone is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[Salty87]

Dude, test that darn pump already. The fake a lake is an awful test. The water from a garden hose is under pressure. When a boat is on the lake it has to suck water uphill. Any mechanic who would tell you that a fake a lake is a good test is an idiot. No other way about it. Wouldn't you rather know the pump is in fact good or bad so you can stop guessing? It's a hell of alot cheaper to test it than just replace it without knowing.

[SquamInboards]

Would anyone be down to skype me with my boat hooked up to a fake a lake to determine the overheating issue? Talked to a few guys at the boat show this past Sunday, and they said it's likely the raw water pump. Either needs a rebuild or a whole new pump like other have mentioned on this forum

Dude, test that darn pump already. The fake a lake is an awful test. The water from a garden hose is under pressure. When a boat is on the lake it has to suck water uphill. Any mechanic who would tell you that a fake a lake is a good test is an idiot. No other way about it. Wouldn't you rather know the pump is in fact good or bad so you can stop guessing? It's a hell of alot cheaper to test it than just replace it without knowing.

Definitely gotta do the bucket test next. You disconnect the hose from the fitting that goes through the hull near the transmission, and stick that into a 5-gal bucket full of water. Then you start the engine and time exactly how long it takes to empty the bucket at idle. If you want to get fancy, you can drill a hole in the side of the bucket near the bottom and put a hose fitting right on it (seal it with caulking of course) - you can even put a little valve inline to get really fancy. It's a good way to non-tox the engine when winterizing, too. It allows you to put the bucket above the height of the engine so gravity is on your side.

One thing I would do BEFORE that, is to run the engine on a hose / fake-a-lake / whatever, so you know the system is primed (aka full of water). THEN try your bucket test.

In fact, it's not a bad technique to run your engine on dry land using a bucket, rather than a hose directly - you can put the garden hose into the bucket so it stays filled. It's possible to create enough suction at higher RPM to flatten a regular garden hose when hooked up directly to the intake hose on the RWP. The bucket creates a buffer against that especially if you are going above idle speed. Always in netural only of course!

[Jetlink]

Take some pictures of your raw water pump both installed in the boat and out of the boat and apart as well. Post them up here and it will help us get you pointed in a good direction.

We will make a boat mechanic out of you yet.

[agetech]

Float your boat down the Missouri to St Joe and I'll take a look at it! Make sure your transmission cooler isn't clogged with debris, this happened to me. Seriously I would like to take a look, I am a retired Air Force mechanic, now it's muscle cars and boats.