Guys, reading the work order, the boat was never overheating. It was a faulty temp sender causing a false overheat reading.
Senior Member
Guys, reading the work order, the boat was never overheating. It was a faulty temp sender causing a false overheat reading.
Member
It's definitely overheating. You can't touch the large metal exhaust risers with your hand without burning yourself. You also can't even touch the hoses that are connected to the front of the motor where the cold water is supposed to be coming in at.
Our last two emails.
ME: I’ve done some hw on the raw water pump. http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-MerCruis...-/400155601291
That is another $600.00. Everyone on the Supra boat forum seems to think the one on there should work if we can get brackets mounted correctly, or it may need rebuilt. Do you expect me to buy one of those pumps for that much? I thought you had replaced the raw water pump from the beginning. According to the forums that should’ve been the first thing checked and replaced. Please email back asap.
Mechanic: As I have explained numerous times. Your raw water pump is fine. It's been replaced twice. Finding brackets to fit your engine to modify a bravo water pump to fit is going to be very difficult. They never had a bravo pump on a Ford engine.
Getting frustrated. Maybe small claims court? Where from here....
Senior Member
You need to talk to this guy in person. Something is being lost in translation.Originally Posted by Awill10291
Former owner of a 1987 Supra Saltare. Current owner of a Malibu 23LSV.
Moderator
Right, if the raw water pump is fine, then why is there a flow issue in cooling the engine and the exhaust? On my engine, the raw water pump pumps water from the lake pretty much directly to the thermostat housing and the exhaust manifolds. If the hoses are getting hot then either the pump is toast, installed backwards with regards to rotation or any other issue. At this point in time, I would think you are best to just go pick up the boat and stop writing checks for this shady tree mechanic.
Go pick up your boat, bring it home if you can and then start taking pictures and maybe video and post them up here so we can get a visual on what you are dealing with because this has been turned into something way more difficult and expensive than it ever should have been. Like was said above, for $4,000 or so you could have had a new crate engine dropped in there I bet.
'86 Comp TS6M - Reborn 2016
Riding a HO Sports CX Ski
Senior Member
This is why I don't pay people to work on my stuff, go get your boat and learn a thing or two along with saving your wallet. If it was me I would start at water inlet and go to town with the cooling system which is an extremely simple design. Everything on these engines are very simple and straight forward.
Senior Member
Have you hooked your boat to a bucket or fake-a-lake to see if the pump is sucking water and is the water coming out the exhaust?
1987 Supra Saltare
PCM 454
Senior Member
Have you tried calling skidim. I know they have universal raw water pump brackets for fords. Just from the info from that email this guy is in over his head. If he has put two pumps in and have done all he says he has then you would be using your boat right now.
1995 supra labrisa
Pro boss gt40
GPS Ridesteady
Pioneer headunit kicker speakers
Senior Member
I would really go down and look at the boat with the mechanic. If everything else is working, this is an issue you can resolve systematically. Verify that each component is working properly, one at a time.
Reading over the work orders you posted, it sounds like the boat had numerous issues when you got it. To quote a few:
- bad distributor
- broken distributor clamp
- battery had been hooked up backwards
- various electrical issues including main ground to battery
- bad neutral safety switch
- severely warped heads (having been recently installed this way - gaskets looked "fairly new")
- bent push rods
- automotive starter and fuel pump
- carb needed rebuild
- battery CCA rating too low
- temp sender was bad
- tower mounts are not reinforced
The fact that the engine was not originally marine doesn't necessarily matter, but adding up all these things tells me a bigger story. The previous owner didn't properly maintain this boat, leaving you with a rash of issues to attempt to figure out. That leads me to question where else corners were cut. I do agree with others that perhaps this mechanic is good with I/Os but not familiar with inboards, which is (at best) a disadvantage to you both. It does sound like he's trying to do the right thing at this point and get to the bottom of it. This is one of those situations where everyone loses. I hope he can get you straightened out and back on the water. Just work with him to get to a resolution unless you have a good alternative; I get the feeling that this is what you really want to do.
TL;DR: There is nothing more expensive than a cheap boat.
Senior Member
What really is bothering me is of the raw water pump is fine then why is he trying to add a bravo pump. If you need a new bracket they make ford universals that you can get. If he's saying the pump is good and he still can't figure it out the mechanic is guessing. But i do agree with the above. This boat had a ton of issues because it was neglected by the previous owner. Find a mechanic that knows inboards. someone on here has to know a mechanic in your area
1995 supra labrisa
Pro boss gt40
GPS Ridesteady
Pioneer headunit kicker speakers
Senior Member
I agree with others... Get a new Sherwood pump. It will take care of the issue. I had a similar issue. Boat was running hot. Put a new impellar in and thought problem was fixed. Still had the same problem. I hook my boat to a rubbermaid storage container on the trailer. Could tell by putting my hand on the inlet that it did not have good suction. Pump was worn just enough that it would pull the water in. I called Skidim and got a new pump. Bamm... Had so much suction it would pull your finger in the hose.
Others might be able to rebuild the pump, but I just replaced it.
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