Drive shaft pulled out of transmission - 89 Supra Sunsport

[dyost]

So it looks like the coupler key sheared off, split right down the middle. It doesn't look like there was any other damage caused to either the drive shaft, or the coupler. So what is my fix here? Get a new key and bolt everything back together?

Any concerns with reusing the coupler?
How about alignment, do I need to do anything to move the engine/trans around to make sure everything is lined up?

I can't figure out how this happened, there is absolutely no damage to my prop as far as I can see. No dings, no bent blades, no chips, nothing? I do have a stainless prop though so maybe it's just that much tougher than a 4 blade?

Please look over the pics and let me know what everyone thinks....

[dyost]

more pics......

[dyost]

Also, anyone know where to buy these keys and/or couplers if I need one?
Thanks,
-dy

[Jetlink]

You are running a stainless prop and not a brass one on your boat? I would address that while I was at it.

[Moor]

Looks like maybe the lock nut that secures the shaft into the coupler was loose? That's the only thing i can think of that would shear off the woodruff key like that. try skidim.com for the key. not sure if this one is the correct size for you: http://www.skidim.com/KEY-STRAIGHT-B...nfo/KEYBR25X2/

[Moor]

You are running a stainless prop and not a brass one on your boat? I would address that while I was at it.

is there a reason why a stainless prop isn't a good idea? I've always run brass on my inboards, just curious why stainless is a no-no.

[Jetlink]

is there a reason why a stainless prop isn't a good idea? I've always run brass on my inboards, just curious why stainless is a no-no.

With an direct drive or V-drive, there is no "weak link" built into the drivetrain such as an I/O or Outboard engine. So, with that being said, if/when you find something substantial with your prop you do not have a "Sacrificial" piece to prevent major damage. That is why brass props are the norm for our boats, the metal is obviously weaker and more forgiving saving the remainder of your driveline.

[dyost]

Yeah I've been meaning to get a new prop, not so much to just get brass but to get something better for the amount of weight I'm running in this boat and a better hole shot. Typically run around 3k in ballast and get a pretty decent wake for a 89 model year boat. Problem is I'm right at the threshold of too much for the engine, so you add a person to the boat and it will take 1/2 mile to plane out pulling a rider. So I'm thinking a newer designed, more efficient, smaller pitch prop would be the ticket.

But what are the thoughts on just replacing the key and putting it all back together to ride?

I called around a few places today, now bear in mind Kansas City doesn't have any proper inboard boat dealers so getting service advice or anyone who even knows how to work on this stuff is a stretch. But I made contact today with a guy from Summit Boats & Gear (a Nautique and PCM dealer) and the guy told me go to Ace Hardware and get a stainless steel square key stock to fit the coupler and use that. Is there any logic to the original brass key and the way mine sheared that is a bit of a fuse link in the case you hit something? He said some hardware stores might have brass also. I'm going to take Moor's suggestion and order a couple of the brass ones from Skidim. I'm out of town this weekend so will I would probably have them just in time to work on the boat next week and maybe get out next weekend.

Thanks

[tripster]

I would go with the brass if that is available from Skidim. If you hit something with your prop, the key will break before damage gets to the tranny. I am not sure the stainless would break.

[Moor]

With an direct drive or V-drive, there is no "weak link" built into the drivetrain such as an I/O or Outboard engine. So, with that being said, if/when you find something substantial with your prop you do not have a "Sacrificial" piece to prevent major damage. That is why brass props are the norm for our boats, the metal is obviously weaker and more forgiving saving the remainder of your driveline.

That makes perfect sense, thank you for the explanation.