Amp suggestion

[19supra19]

Just got a 24ssv gg. Boat was done at earmark years ago (saw a sticker on the boat and found the build on their site). Has 8 Polk db651 inboats with 6 db651 on tower and a 12 in Polk sub. Powered by 2 Boston GT-40 amps. The amp that powers 4 of the inboats and the sub has a blown channel. I was thinking of going to a kenwood 5 channel. Any suggestions comments for a new amp? Yes Ik the other amp would be replaced ideally bc of all the bridged channels but not gonna do that at this moment.

[Sdc77]

Forget about Kenwood, Alpine, Sony, Pioneer etc. for amps and speakers.
Go for American amps. Much more power and dynamics, even at same ratting power :

Rockford, MTX, Hifonics, Polk, Kicker, JL Audio, Precision Power, Soundstream etc.

I highly suggest class-D amps in boats. They draw less current for same amount of power, and don't get hot.
I use car amplifiers for years without any issue.

[trayson]

Just got a 24ssv gg. Boat was done at earmark years ago (saw a sticker on the boat and found the build on their site). Has 8 Polk db651 inboats with 6 db651 on tower and a 12 in Polk sub. Powered by 2 Boston GT-40 amps. The amp that powers 4 of the inboats and the sub has a blown channel. I was thinking of going to a kenwood 5 channel. Any suggestions comments for a new amp? Yes Ik the other amp would be replaced ideally bc of all the bridged channels but not gonna do that at this moment.

I have 8 of the Polk DB651's powered off a Precision power P900.4 and it just cranks. No overheating ever. No clipping, no problems. they're small in size and a great value. I have the P600.2 at 2 ohms for my tower speakers and the P1000.1 for my 2 10" subs.

[19supra19]

I have 8 of the Polk DB651's powered off a Precision power P900.4 and it just cranks. No overheating ever. No clipping, no problems. they're small in size and a great value. I have the P600.2 at 2 ohms for my tower speakers and the P1000.1 for my 2 10" subs.

So would you think the P900.5 would be good for 4 speakers and the sub?

[trayson]

So would you think the P900.5 would be good for 4 speakers and the sub?

You could go a couple different ways. You could do a PPI P900.4 and run 4 speakers on the front channels and the sub on the rear channels bridged:

http://www.electotronics.com/precisi...w4channel.aspx
That would give a total of 450 watts RMS for your sub and 450 watts for the remaining 4 speakers (running at 2 ohms, so you'd have a pair on each of the channels)

Or you could do the PPI P900.5 which is a 5 channel amp.
http://www.rakuten.com/prod/precisio...P1EaAmVZ8P8HAQ

You'd have 70watts for each of the 4 speakers (280 total) and they'd be at 4 ohms. then you'd have 270watts for your sub (assuming it's 4 ohms) or 440 watts if it's 2 ohms.

Pretty similar either way as far as how much power gets to your speakers. so I'd say that you might be best going with the 5 channel because that would get you a bass knob to control the level of the subwoofer independently, and you'd be able to adjust/fade the level of each pair of DB651's independent of the other pair.

[19supra19]

You could go a couple different ways. You could do a PPI P900.4 and run 4 speakers on the front channels and the sub on the rear channels bridged:

http://www.electotronics.com/precisi...w4channel.aspx
That would give a total of 450 watts RMS for your sub and 450 watts for the remaining 4 speakers (running at 2 ohms, so you'd have a pair on each of the channels)

Or you could do the PPI P900.5 which is a 5 channel amp.
http://www.rakuten.com/prod/precisio...P1EaAmVZ8P8HAQ

You'd have 70watts for each of the 4 speakers (280 total) and they'd be at 4 ohms. then you'd have 270watts for your sub (assuming it's 4 ohms) or 440 watts if it's 2 ohms.

Pretty similar either way as far as how much power gets to your speakers. so I'd say that you might be best going with the 5 channel because that would get you a bass knob to control the level of the subwoofer independently, and you'd be able to adjust/fade the level of each pair of DB651's independent of the other pair.

Yep that's why I'm definitely goin 5 channel. I don't know what exact model of sub it is just know Polk 12 inch so I'm not 100% sure on the ohms. I guess I could look up specs on the Boston amp and see what ohm it is since it currently powers the sub. This was the kenwood I was looking at..could get it for around $350-400. But I'm not stuck on it. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113XR90...9357385&awdv=m

[19supra19]

Forget about Kenwood, Alpine, Sony, Pioneer etc. for amps and speakers.
Go for American amps. Much more power and dynamics, even at same ratting power :

Rockford, MTX, Hifonics, Polk, Kicker, JL Audio, Precision Power, Soundstream etc.

I highly suggest class-D amps in boats. They draw less current for same amount of power, and don't get hot.
I use car amplifiers for years without any issue.

Ok I'll most likely go class D like you said nnow. But what would you say is a good amp for those 4 speakers and sub from some of the brands you say. I'm familiar with jl, kicker and Polk as I've had those. But what about others you've listed. Thanks

[Wylietunes]

Just got a 24ssv gg. Boat was done at earmark years ago (saw a sticker on the boat and found the build on their site). Has 8 Polk db651 inboats with 6 db651 on tower and a 12 in Polk sub. Powered by 2 Boston GT-40 amps. The amp that powers 4 of the inboats and the sub has a blown channel. I was thinking of going to a kenwood 5 channel. Any suggestions comments for a new amp? Yes Ik the other amp would be replaced ideally bc of all the bridged channels but not gonna do that at this moment.

Im gathering your woofer is a 4 ohm woofer. Most 5 chnl amps are not going to deliver their potential unless the woofer is a 2 ohm. So take this into account based on the woofers needs. As an example, the Wet Sounds HTX-6 would give you 300W rms to a 4 ohm woofer and up to 110W rms for 4 in-boats. Thats more than plenty for yours. A step up from there, would be something like the Arc XDi1200.6. It would deliver 600W for the woofer and 150 for the in-boats.

[wotan2525]

Also a big fan of the PPI Phantom amps. All of these small Class-D amps are basically clones of the first ones that were made for ARC. I suspect they even come out of the same factory. The WetSounds are custom designed to a different specification and more expensive because of the brand, the support, and the hydrophobic coating that they apply to the boards. NVX/PPI/AudioPipe/Kenwood/Polk/etc Class D amps are basically all the same. I like the PPI package but wouldn't have a problem with any of the others. Also, these amps are so inexpensive I would add 2 of them -- one dedicated to the speakers and one for the sub. It's worth it.

[trayson]

Also a big fan of the PPI Phantom amps. All of these small Class-D amps are basically clones of the first ones that were made for ARC. I suspect they even come out of the same factory. The WetSounds are custom designed to a different specification and more expensive because of the brand, the support, and the hydrophobic coating that they apply to the boards. NVX/PPI/AudioPipe/Kenwood/Polk/etc Class D amps are basically all the same. I like the PPI package but wouldn't have a problem with any of the others. Also, these amps are so inexpensive I would add 2 of them -- one dedicated to the speakers and one for the sub. It's worth it.

I just upgraded my Kicker HLCD 6pack to a pair of WS Rev10's. I have them powered by a pair of PPI Phantom P600.2 amps. They're giving 600w bridged at 14.4v @ 4 ohms (400w RMS at 12v). So each REV410 is getting what they want and then some. I went out yesterday with it and it rocked my socks off. WOW. That said MLA told me that I need a 'proper amp' for my rev410s. I'll see the reasoning soon enough. Gotta love Wakeworld (of course he's posting on this thread too. No disrespect to MLA, he knows his stuff and I'm sure really believes in the quality differential from the brand names vs these new value amps... I'm sure time will tell.)