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Thread: Amp suggestion

  1. #1

    Default Amp suggestion

    Just got a 24ssv gg. Boat was done at earmark years ago (saw a sticker on the boat and found the build on their site). Has 8 Polk db651 inboats with 6 db651 on tower and a 12 in Polk sub. Powered by 2 Boston GT-40 amps. The amp that powers 4 of the inboats and the sub has a blown channel. I was thinking of going to a kenwood 5 channel. Any suggestions comments for a new amp? Yes Ik the other amp would be replaced ideally bc of all the bridged channels but not gonna do that at this moment.

  2. #2
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    Forget about Kenwood, Alpine, Sony, Pioneer etc. for amps and speakers.
    Go for American amps. Much more power and dynamics, even at same ratting power :

    Rockford, MTX, Hifonics, Polk, Kicker, JL Audio, Precision Power, Soundstream etc.

    I highly suggest class-D amps in boats. They draw less current for same amount of power, and don't get hot.
    I use car amplifiers for years without any issue.
    Stéphane
    -----------------------
    1989 Supra Saltare

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by 19supra19 View Post
    Just got a 24ssv gg. Boat was done at earmark years ago (saw a sticker on the boat and found the build on their site). Has 8 Polk db651 inboats with 6 db651 on tower and a 12 in Polk sub. Powered by 2 Boston GT-40 amps. The amp that powers 4 of the inboats and the sub has a blown channel. I was thinking of going to a kenwood 5 channel. Any suggestions comments for a new amp? Yes Ik the other amp would be replaced ideally bc of all the bridged channels but not gonna do that at this moment.
    I have 8 of the Polk DB651's powered off a Precision power P900.4 and it just cranks. No overheating ever. No clipping, no problems. they're small in size and a great value. I have the P600.2 at 2 ohms for my tower speakers and the P1000.1 for my 2 10" subs.
    2008 Moomba Mobius XLV. Monster Cargo Bimini, and more mods to come...

    1992 Supra Sunsport. **SOLD** 2k pounds ballast, Surf System, Blue LED's everywhere, decent audio system.


    Tow Rig: 2013 F150 Ecoboost FX4 (wife's rig) Other money pits include:1998 BMW M3 Cabriolet, 2002 Audi S6 Avant, 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636.

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sdc77 View Post
    Forget about Kenwood, Alpine, Sony, Pioneer etc. for amps and speakers.
    Go for American amps. Much more power and dynamics, even at same ratting power :

    Rockford, MTX, Hifonics, Polk, Kicker, JL Audio, Precision Power, Soundstream etc.

    I highly suggest class-D amps in boats. They draw less current for same amount of power, and don't get hot.
    I use car amplifiers for years without any issue.
    Ok I'll most likely go class D like you said nnow. But what would you say is a good amp for those 4 speakers and sub from some of the brands you say. I'm familiar with jl, kicker and Polk as I've had those. But what about others you've listed. Thanks

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by trayson View Post
    I have 8 of the Polk DB651's powered off a Precision power P900.4 and it just cranks. No overheating ever. No clipping, no problems. they're small in size and a great value. I have the P600.2 at 2 ohms for my tower speakers and the P1000.1 for my 2 10" subs.
    So would you think the P900.5 would be good for 4 speakers and the sub?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 19supra19 View Post
    So would you think the P900.5 would be good for 4 speakers and the sub?
    You could go a couple different ways. You could do a PPI P900.4 and run 4 speakers on the front channels and the sub on the rear channels bridged:

    http://www.electotronics.com/precisi...w4channel.aspx
    That would give a total of 450 watts RMS for your sub and 450 watts for the remaining 4 speakers (running at 2 ohms, so you'd have a pair on each of the channels)

    Or you could do the PPI P900.5 which is a 5 channel amp.
    http://www.rakuten.com/prod/precisio...P1EaAmVZ8P8HAQ

    You'd have 70watts for each of the 4 speakers (280 total) and they'd be at 4 ohms. then you'd have 270watts for your sub (assuming it's 4 ohms) or 440 watts if it's 2 ohms.

    Pretty similar either way as far as how much power gets to your speakers. so I'd say that you might be best going with the 5 channel because that would get you a bass knob to control the level of the subwoofer independently, and you'd be able to adjust/fade the level of each pair of DB651's independent of the other pair.
    2008 Moomba Mobius XLV. Monster Cargo Bimini, and more mods to come...

    1992 Supra Sunsport. **SOLD** 2k pounds ballast, Surf System, Blue LED's everywhere, decent audio system.


    Tow Rig: 2013 F150 Ecoboost FX4 (wife's rig) Other money pits include:1998 BMW M3 Cabriolet, 2002 Audi S6 Avant, 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636.

  7. #7

    Default Amp suggestion

    Quote Originally Posted by trayson View Post
    You could go a couple different ways. You could do a PPI P900.4 and run 4 speakers on the front channels and the sub on the rear channels bridged:

    http://www.electotronics.com/precisi...w4channel.aspx
    That would give a total of 450 watts RMS for your sub and 450 watts for the remaining 4 speakers (running at 2 ohms, so you'd have a pair on each of the channels)

    Or you could do the PPI P900.5 which is a 5 channel amp.
    http://www.rakuten.com/prod/precisio...P1EaAmVZ8P8HAQ

    You'd have 70watts for each of the 4 speakers (280 total) and they'd be at 4 ohms. then you'd have 270watts for your sub (assuming it's 4 ohms) or 440 watts if it's 2 ohms.

    Pretty similar either way as far as how much power gets to your speakers. so I'd say that you might be best going with the 5 channel because that would get you a bass knob to control the level of the subwoofer independently, and you'd be able to adjust/fade the level of each pair of DB651's independent of the other pair.
    Yep that's why I'm definitely goin 5 channel. I don't know what exact model of sub it is just know Polk 12 inch so I'm not 100% sure on the ohms. I guess I could look up specs on the Boston amp and see what ohm it is since it currently powers the sub. This was the kenwood I was looking at..could get it for around $350-400. But I'm not stuck on it. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113XR90...9357385&awdv=m
    Last edited by 19supra19; 06-08-2016 at 05:42 PM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 19supra19 View Post
    Yep that's why I'm definitely goin 5 channel. I don't know what exact model of sub it is just know Polk 12 inch so I'm not 100% sure on the ohms. I guess I could look up specs on the Boston amp and see what ohm it is since it currently powers the sub. This was the kenwood I was looking at..could get it for around $350-400. But I'm not stuck on it. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113XR90...9357385&awdv=m
    How much power the amp puts out for the sub channel in your case will be dependent on the SUB that you have. if it's a 4 ohm sub, it'll put out a certain number of watts, but if it's a 2 ohm sub it'll put out more power to the sub (but it'll be working the amp harder in the process and generating a little more heat).

    For the money, I'd go with the PPI amp over the kenwood. the kenwood is almost double the price. The PPI amp will put out as much or more than the Boston amp you're replacing.
    2008 Moomba Mobius XLV. Monster Cargo Bimini, and more mods to come...

    1992 Supra Sunsport. **SOLD** 2k pounds ballast, Surf System, Blue LED's everywhere, decent audio system.


    Tow Rig: 2013 F150 Ecoboost FX4 (wife's rig) Other money pits include:1998 BMW M3 Cabriolet, 2002 Audi S6 Avant, 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 19supra19 View Post
    Just got a 24ssv gg. Boat was done at earmark years ago (saw a sticker on the boat and found the build on their site). Has 8 Polk db651 inboats with 6 db651 on tower and a 12 in Polk sub. Powered by 2 Boston GT-40 amps. The amp that powers 4 of the inboats and the sub has a blown channel. I was thinking of going to a kenwood 5 channel. Any suggestions comments for a new amp? Yes Ik the other amp would be replaced ideally bc of all the bridged channels but not gonna do that at this moment.
    Im gathering your woofer is a 4 ohm woofer. Most 5 chnl amps are not going to deliver their potential unless the woofer is a 2 ohm. So take this into account based on the woofers needs. As an example, the Wet Sounds HTX-6 would give you 300W rms to a 4 ohm woofer and up to 110W rms for 4 in-boats. Thats more than plenty for yours. A step up from there, would be something like the Arc XDi1200.6. It would deliver 600W for the woofer and 150 for the in-boats.
    Michael
    Mikes Liquid Audio

  10. #10
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    Also a big fan of the PPI Phantom amps. All of these small Class-D amps are basically clones of the first ones that were made for ARC. I suspect they even come out of the same factory. The WetSounds are custom designed to a different specification and more expensive because of the brand, the support, and the hydrophobic coating that they apply to the boards. NVX/PPI/AudioPipe/Kenwood/Polk/etc Class D amps are basically all the same. I like the PPI package but wouldn't have a problem with any of the others. Also, these amps are so inexpensive I would add 2 of them -- one dedicated to the speakers and one for the sub. It's worth it.
    Former owner of a 1987 Supra Saltare. Current owner of a Malibu 23LSV.

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