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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Posts
    12

    Default 1995 supra Sunsport engine swap

    Hey guys I'm new here. I have searched and haven't found anything yet. I have a cracked block on my pro boss. I just bought a ford 351 Windsor to replace the old motor. It is a rebuilt motor a little over a year ago coming out of 65 mustang. Can anyone make suggestions I need to do to it to make it a marine engine. I will be using most of all my old parts from the original motor. Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Guelph Ontario
    Posts
    528

    Default

    I'm not a motor guy, but I do know the cam for that motor will not be the right one. I'm sure it'll work, but I know the marine version is not the same. As I understand it the marine version is set up for a lot more bottom end torque, so I'm guessing your hole shot will be a bit weak. There are some really good motor guys on the forum so they can chime in on anything else to watch for. Since you're moving everything over from the old motor, I don't see a problem otherwise. For safety you must use the starter, alternator, distributor and carb off the old motor for sure. And fuel lines should not be rubber.
    Last edited by chris young; 07-25-2016 at 02:03 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Burden Lake NY
    Posts
    272

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    i'm not a ford guy, but i know some of the older chevy cylinder heads do not have the mounting locations for the marine accessory brackets. Double check your heads to make sure you can bolt all of your brackets onto the old mustang motor/cylinder heads. Also verify that the exhaust manifolds have the same bolt pattern and are compatible. Chris is correct, the camshaft will not be optimized for marine use, but should work. Depending on what intake manifold you have, it may be the same case as the camshaft.

    I'd verify the donor motor is good with a compression test and leak down test before i even considered it. Just because it was rebuilt a year ago, doesn't mean its a healthy engine. A lot can happen in a year, and "rebuilt" can mean a lot of different things to different people. Why is the mustang owner getting rid of an engine he just rebuilt last year?
    1988 Supra Sun Sport 454 PCM
    1972 Olds Cutlass 455
    1998 BMW 750il
    1996 BMW M3 coupe
    1995 Toyota Tacoma 4x4

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Posts
    12

    Default

    alright thank you both. I had my mechanic check out the motor before I purchased it. Everything seemed to check out. He was selling it because It was too big for the engine bay and power steering would not fit. It originally came out of a crown Victoria. I will check out the brackets and exhaust manifold bolt pattern.

    Again thank you. I will post some pictures and updates for anyone interested in following the progress.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Syracuse NY
    Posts
    934

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    So your Proboss and the 351 are both fords and are the same block. The difference is the marine engines were set up more like the trucks versions. You're going to use the gt40 heads off the Proboss engine. You'll add a bunch of horsepower. Also all the freeze plugs will have to be switched to the brass ones. Last thing to check is to make sure the Proboss wasn't a reverse rotation motor. If it is, You're going to make to switch the prop. Keep us posted. I love these threads.

    1995 supra labrisa
    Pro boss gt40
    GPS Ridesteady
    Pioneer headunit kicker speakers

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cusefan78 View Post
    So your Proboss and the 351 are both fords and are the same block. The difference is the marine engines were set up more like the trucks versions. You're going to use the gt40 heads off the Proboss engine. You'll add a bunch of horsepower. Also all the freeze plugs will have to be switched to the brass ones. Last thing to check is to make sure the Proboss wasn't a reverse rotation motor. If it is, You're going to make to switch the prop. Keep us posted. I love these threads.
    Good point on the rotation. This boat would have a 1.23:1 transmission, right? I believe you would have to also switch something on the transmission if you had to switch the direction it's being spun. My memory is a bit hazy and I'm at work so I can't spend a lot of time googling it, but that was my recollection. (Front main seal??) If they're the same rotation, there's no problem obviously. But you may still want to check WOT RPM and consider a new prop regardless. Any change in power might make a prop swap a good idea.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Syracuse NY
    Posts
    934

    Default

    most direct drives made 1989 and later use the 1.23:1 transmission, and have LH engines. There are some RH rotation engines mated to 1:1 PCM transmissions.

    If you have a reverse rotation you'll need to change the starter, distributor, prop, and I believe all you'll need to do for the tranny is rotate the pump 180 degrees. some of the engine guys on here should be able to verify this.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Posts
    12

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    Thank you everyone. This is all very helpful. We will be starting Monday morning to begin the project. Definitely excited. Again I will keep you all posted and up to date with the progress

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Posts
    12

    Default

    Here is a picture of the stock engine coming out. This was this spring when I was replacing spark plugs and the fuel filter (before I knew the block was cracked)
    IMG_2137.jpg

    This one is of the new Engine purchased being swapped in.
    IMG_2271.jpg
    IMG_2327.jpg
    IMG_2328.jpg

    So to date. This week I have been disassembling the old motor in the boat in order to lift her out. Ran into a few hickups. One the old alternator I was going to reuse and rebuild cracked inside as I was unscrewing a nut holding wiring to it. I will most likely need to buy a new alternator. Also the headers need to be removed in order to get an impact gun on the motor mount. the bolts being used for the exhaust manifold are hex. unfortunately they stripped out because they are so rusty. will need an easy out or other way to get a few of those bolts out (successfully removed 10 of the 16 bolts). Last hickup is that on top of the exhaust that connects to the headers, 3 of the 8 bolts broke when loosening them. So I have 3 bolts sticking out about a quarter of an inch. I will most likely need to drill them out.

    Here is where it is at as of a half hour ago

    IMG_2437.jpg
    Last edited by miller; 08-04-2016 at 06:32 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Burden Lake NY
    Posts
    272

    Default

    Try some heat on the broken / stuck bolts. If you have access to an acetylene torch use that. If not a bottle of map gas and a torch tip from home depot is the next best thing. For the broken bolts, heat up the area of the casting that the bolt is broken off in, do not heat the bolt its self. Get it as hot as you can, and clamp a GOOD pair of vise grips on it as hard as you can and try to work it free. Heating it and letting it cool down, then reheating a few times, and applying a good penetrating lubricant in between heat cycles works good for really stubborn bolts. Keep a bucket of water near by just incase of fire. It takes a little practice and patience, but its a lot better than drilling out broken bolts and retapping the holes.
    1988 Supra Sun Sport 454 PCM
    1972 Olds Cutlass 455
    1998 BMW 750il
    1996 BMW M3 coupe
    1995 Toyota Tacoma 4x4

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