Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 24
  1. #11

    Default

    Thank you, is there a way to dry the foam in the floor? or does that need to be replaced?

  2. #12

    Default

    or better yet, how can i find out if that is what the problem is. The floors are super solid and have no give so we did not think of rot.

  3. #13

    Default

    also, can the boat still be used. we only have a few more times before the fall/ school begins....
    i appreciate all the suggestions

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    315

    Default

    No way to dry the foam under the floor. If floor is solid, you need to check the stringers. Turn the engine mount bolts mounted on the side of the stringers. If they're tight, grab, don't spin - your motor mounts are solid in that part of the stringer. Traditionally in these boats the area where water comes in is around the exhaust outlets. You can also poke a hole with a pick and see how easily it penetrates the wood string once it's past the fiberglass and epoxy coating. People have been known to overlay a new floor to represent a 'solid' floor.

    If your motor mounts are solid - you're safe to use 3-4 more times. If they spin, no grab - tuck it away for tear down.

    To fix the waterlogged foam under the floor you need to pull the top cap, cut up the floor, shovel out the foam and rebuild all to new. Not a job that's impossible - but you do need the right tools, a lot of time and measuring, decent carpentry skills and friends to help tear down and reassemble. If you fix it right, it'll last another 30 years. Good luck!

  5. #15

    Default

    If I were to get this fix what am I to expect

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    N.W. Suburbs Chicago, IL
    Posts
    2,307

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    If I were to get this fix what am I to expect
    Doing it yourself or paying someone?
    '86 Comp TS6M - Reborn 2016
    Riding a HO Sports CX Ski

  7. #17

    Default

    all set...the original boat manufacturer (sweetwater metal products) was awesome...sent vin, and weight specs...got a registered letter sent to take to the dmv........CT dmv still tagged it "homemade" so they assigned their own vin....Oh well.....at least we are legal.....
    Marina said no water logged issues...stringers are ok...not wood but effectively coremat which was used for 2 years during the transition to full fiberglass

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Oyama, B C , Canada
    Posts
    650

    Default

    What weight specs did smp send younfor your trailer?

  9. #19

    Default

    Trailer 900, gvwr 3240, carrying capacity 2520....

    I think he took the carrying capacity as it is grandfathered........and reclassified as homemade. Did me a solid and at least allows me to have a little time to think about another trailer......

    Any suggestions?

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Oyama, B C , Canada
    Posts
    650

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    Trailer 900, gvwr 3240, carrying capacity 2520....

    I think he took the carrying capacity as it is grandfathered........and reclassified as homemade. Did me a solid and at least allows me to have a little time to think about another trailer......

    Any suggestions?
    So going back to earlier posts and figures provided when weighing the boat you are still approx 750 lbs over weight when compared to the boat and trailer total weight.
    When you weighed same was it stand alone on the scale. ( not attached to tow vehicle which was clear of scale altogether)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •