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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
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    Alberta
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    Default RPM's hanging after a pull?

    Anybody else have this problem?

    I recently set timing on my 89 Sunsport PCM 5.8L. I set it to 12 degrees base. It runs much better now (was in the neighborhood of 20 degrees before), but I am encountering a new problem since adjustment. After pulling someone on a tube or board, the RPM's hang at ~2000rpm and will not drop to idle speed. Obviously, the boat won't come out of gear at that speed. If I turn the boat off and fire it back up, it runs at 700rpm idle speed.

    What could be causing the rpm's to hang out up there? Engine has a Holley 650cfm carb on it, but the fact that it returns to normal after shutting down leads me to suspect something electrical? Any ideas are welcomed, thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    fort worth , tx
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    1,171

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    Quote Originally Posted by Knully View Post
    Anybody else have this problem?

    I recently set timing on my 89 Sunsport PCM 5.8L. I set it to 12 degrees base. It runs much better now (was in the neighborhood of 20 degrees before), but I am encountering a new problem since adjustment. After pulling someone on a tube or board, the RPM's hang at ~2000rpm and will not drop to idle speed. Obviously, the boat won't come out of gear at that speed. If I turn the boat off and fire it back up, it runs at 700rpm idle speed.

    What could be causing the rpm's to hang out up there? Engine has a Holley 650cfm carb on it, but the fact that it returns to normal after shutting down leads me to suspect something electrical? Any ideas are welcomed, thanks!
    12 is too much , 10 BTDC and adjust idle from there , or your throttle linkage is hanging up ..
    LIFE IS TOO SHORT NOT TO BE LIVELY

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    NJ
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    1,393

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    20* was too much, I'm surprised it started well enough without kicking back, killing the starter, or detonating itself to death if you ran it there any length of time. Maybe you're running 91-93 octane and that kept it safe.
    8*-12* is a good range for initial, and total around 30*-32*. Up to 16* is good for those inefficient heads with 36* total if it doesn't detonate, but I don't recommend that much timing in a towboat as you can be too close with detonation in an application where it's hard to hear. 10* initial and 32* total is pretty safe.

    On the hanging revs, check your throttle lingage. May need to be adjusted to allow enough slack at idle to release fully consistently. Also set your idle mixture and idle stop screw after any base timing change. Check timing when it hangs, could be your mechanical advance sticking. Finally it could be an intermittent vacuum leak. I had one on mine that took forever to find, ended up being a leak to under the intake so only found the damaged gasket after removing the intake.

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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    185

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    Quote Originally Posted by cadunkle View Post
    Check timing when it hangs, could be your mechanical advance sticking.
    I had this happen on an old boat. It had so many hours that the guides that the weight ran in had a notch worn into it at the fully advanced position! It would stick, i thought the whole distributor slipped, so I'd adjust it back, then it would spring back at random (and wouldn't advance further) so generally ran horrible...
    Korey Morris -
    Sold to Arkansas: 1986 Supra Saltare
    Current: 2018 Moomba Craz

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Alberta
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Thanks everyone for the replies. I had already determined that the throttle linkage was not the cause but forgot to mention that.

    This carbeurated engine is new to me - I have never owned something without EFI so trying to learn as I go. I will be sure to how-to setting the idle mixture. I have a rotor and cap to try out, what you are saying makes sense to me Korey. If timing advance is controlled mechanically, what is the function of the vacuum hose run to the front of the carb?

    Thanks fellas, here is a picture of my weapon. Bought it in July, haven't had it out much. Life, weather and work get in the way. On the rare nice day, my brother has had his SAN 230 out so the Supra hasn't got much love.




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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    fort worth , tx
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knully View Post
    Thanks everyone for the replies. I had already determined that the throttle linkage was not the cause but forgot to mention that.

    This carbeurated engine is new to me - I have never owned something without EFI so trying to learn as I go. I will be sure to how-to setting the idle mixture. I have a rotor and cap to try out, what you are saying makes sense to me Korey. If timing advance is controlled mechanically, what is the function of the vacuum hose run to the front of the carb?

    Thanks fellas, here is a picture of my weapon. Bought it in July, haven't had it out much. Life, weather and work get in the way. On the rare nice day, my brother has had his SAN 230 out so the Supra hasn't got much love.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Then you have the wrong carb , should be a a Holley 4160 w/out vacuum advance port . Take a pic of what you got . There should a blow by hose out the back and then a over flow for the fuel pump . As well the carb overflows should have 90degree elbows pointing into the boosters


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    LIFE IS TOO SHORT NOT TO BE LIVELY

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Alberta
    Posts
    25

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    It's possible I'm just confused. All I remember seeing on the carb is Holley and 650 cfm. I'll grab a picture later on today, it's stored at a friends place at the moment.


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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Alberta
    Posts
    25

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    Looks like you are right. What I thought was a vacuum line runs back down to the fuel pump. I need to take some time and read/tinker until I understand carbs a little better. It's all greek to me at this point.

    Now, I had a chance to do a little tinkering tonight finally. My total timing is only 25 degrees, stops advancing about 3000rpm. Thinking the distributor would be the culprit here?


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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    fort worth , tx
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    What is your base timing set at ? And what does the boat idle at ?

    I set mine to 600-750 idle rpm

    8-10 degrees BTDC

    And that should set about 26 -27 total timing of I remember correctly . Too much advance is no good , then you develop spark knock , just set it right when it starts with one key bump sometimes it's better to adjust by ear also .


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    LIFE IS TOO SHORT NOT TO BE LIVELY

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Alberta
    Posts
    25

    Default RPM's hanging after a pull?

    I have idle set at 700-750 now, timing was set at 600 RPM when I set timing.Thanks Lively, I did set base timing more by ear which is how I ended up at 12 degrees base. It just seemed to idle smoother there than 10 or 11 degrees. Timing seemed to bounce around when trying to set at 10 as well. My concern comes from me reading that I should be 30-34 degrees total timing, and I only have 25-26.

    We do run 91 octane, and the boat ran great last time out aside from the RPM's not dropping. Had good, smooth power. Looks like it might be a winter project now, frost on my grass today. Boat is hopefully being pulled apart this winter to replace stringers.


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    Last edited by Knully; 09-13-2016 at 08:58 AM.

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