2005 22V Rough Idle and Water in Oil!!!

[Sluggo]

So if I am at 170-180 psi on all cylinders, doesn't that tell me my head gaskets, rings, valves are all good? Or relatively good for a 11-12 year old engine with 500 hours? Manual says min is 100 psi.

Would it make more sense to just take the intake manifold to get tested first given the gaskets look ok?

[roosm]

So if I am at 170-180 psi on all cylinders, doesn't that tell me my head gaskets, rings, valves are all good? Or relatively good for a 11-12 year old engine with 500 hours? Manual says min is 100 psi.

Would it make more sense to just take the intake manifold to get tested first given the gaskets look ok?

I think what one should do is do a leak down test.
Well of course taking the head to a shop would give even more insight.

If you haven't already removed the heads I would lean toward the why fix was isn't broken route, but to each his own. I cannot really recommend doing it, but I would lean towards it if it were my engine.
You need to figure out why you got water in your oil though.
If you think you got it through the air-intake for the engine by having a lot of water flying around in the bilge or through the exhaust by either having damaged riser/manifold gaskets or riding with that side of the engine too low, then fine. Probably this isn't an issue with the engine. Just change all exhaust gaskets and be careful coming off surf-speed to a stop. Might even have your spotter move side whenever a surfer falls. I have never surfed nor seen someone surf (except pro's on video) so not sure how bothersome this would be in the long run.

Depending on what equipment you have I would at least:
Remove all spark plugs, not doing this might lead to false results of test.
Remove the waterpump.
Put engine in neutral, and turn off any power to the engine.
Remove the Valve-covers.
Manually turn the engine over on the bolt behind the waterpump until you have both valves completely closed on one cylinder, doesn't really matter in what order, this would put that cylinder att Top Dead Center TDC.
At this point that cylinder should be air-tight and able to hold quite some pressure.

Attach a compressor to that cylinders spark plug hole and apply pressure. Best case use an actual leak down tester.
Otherwise at least apply the 8 bar pressure your compressor is probably capable of. Borrow a compressor if you don't have one.
I was able to use some of the parts that came with my compression tester to use it on my compressor and attach it to the spark plug hole.
Leave the compressor attached but not on, you would need to have like a compressor air-gun or something in between the cylinder and compressor so that you can shut of pressure.
After a minute or so detach the compressor. You should still have full pressure inside the cylinder so that when removing the compressor from the spark plug hole it would flow out air.
Otherwise you have a leak somewhere. Since it doesn't show up on your compression test it is a slow leak.
Then I might get worried at least worried enough to pull my heads.

Mike

[docdrs]

When you winterize , do you drain the block, and poke a wire thru the drain plug holes? It is virtually impossible for water to get in thru exhaust flappers. Water can get in if it is extremely high in the bilge .... you would notice this. What was the oil level with the water in it? Was it above the high mark? Could it be condensation from lack of use? Those plugs look aweful, they look rusty like they've been in water. Did the porcelain around the electrodes look chocolate brown? How old are they and did you check the gap on them, some look quite large.

[Sluggo]

I have installed ball valves on the block drains holes to drain the block. I don't poke anything up in there as I have always had good flow coming out both sides. I would have noticed water that high in the bilge and the pump running constantly to combat that. I did not notice the level being high, but I was pretty freaked out/disappointed when I saw the water. The plugs are brand new as they were one of the first things I changed. The dirt or rust color is the anticease grease or coating that I used. I did notice that when I pulled one of the new ones out the porcelain was bent at about a 10 degree angle. Not sure how I did not notice it, but it must work, as there was no change in the performance when I put the new plugs in. I gapped them to .06 per the manual and use 93 Octane whenever possible.

So update... I pulled the heads and had them reconditioned. The head gaskets looked fine, no obvious leaks or breaks. Installed new head gaskets and installed the heads with new bolts and torqued them in the recommended pattern to 65 in/lbs. Ran into a snag when installing the manifold. I had not thought to get new bolts and the old ones looked brand new. Well, now I know why you always go with new. When torquing to 30 ft/lbs, one snapped. Luckily it was fairly high up on the bolt so all I have to do is remove the manifold and vice grip it out. Waiting for some warmer weather to do that and picking up new intake bolts.

I have new exhaust gaskets but was going to wait until I had the top end together before re-installing those. New bolts there as well?

Picks below - 1st is after pulling head off. 2nd 3rd are cleaned up prior to heads going back on. Any idea where the discoloration would have come from on the rear of the block? Intake gasket residue?

[Sluggo]

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[Sluggo]

More progress today. Removed and re-installed manifold with new bolts. Everything went fine as I found that 30 ft/lbs was way too much torque. I have found several sources that said 30, but I guess the accepted more recent number is 11 unless otherwise specified by the gasket manufacture. Got to a stopping point when the sun went down and it was time to adjust the valves. I found a decent article on it but it say to rotate the engine. Does the raw water pump have to come off or can I grab on to one of the pully bolts and spin it that way?

Valve Adjustment. There is a specific sequence you must adhere to. Set the motor for #1cyl at Top Dead center, To adjust a valve back off the adjusting nut until lash is felt at the pushrod. Tighten the nut until all lash is removed. This can be determined by rotating the pushrods with your fngers. When all lash is removed the pushrod will stop rotating. When all play is removed rotate the nut 3/4-1 full turn.

With the engine in #1 firing position the following valves can be adjusted:
Exhaust 1,3,4,8
Intake 1,2,5,7

Crank engine one full revolution - The following valves can now be adjusted:
Exhaust 2,5,6,7
Intake 3,4,6,8.

Please let me know if there is another more efficient or acceptable way to adjust the valves. Right now it looks like #4 is at TDC.

Again, any and all input is greatly appreciated.

Dave

[Sluggo]

Ok, more progress today, but no results. Got everything back together and ready to start. Turned key a few times without engaging starter to build up fuel pressure, turned on water, low pressure then tried to start. Engine rotated through a few cylinders and then stopped. Tried one more time and it starts to turn over, but stops. No clancking or noises or hard stop, kind of sounds like there is too much pressure in a cylinder for it to keep cranking. Removed plugs and it turns over freely. Did I mess something up royally? Should I reset timing? I am pretty sure I did it correctly. Found TDC on #1 when adjusting valves and made sure distributor was pointing to #1 wire. Rotated 360, adjusted rest of valves and then that is where I tried to start from when everything was put back together. Suggestions?

[NorCalPR]

Try a fresh battery?

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[leetudor]

Are the valves too tight?

[Sluggo]

Ok, we have a winner. Apparently my battery that is always on a battery tender did not have enough cranking amps. I combined the two batteries and it fired right up. I immediately noticed there was no oil pressure so I turned it off. After a little poking around I found the ground had slipped off while I was moving other hoses etc around. So, I let it run for a few minutes with good oil pressure and plan to drain oil and change filter tomorrow just to make sure all the contaminated oil is out or at least diluted enough to not cause any damage.

So since it had not been running well and I did all this work along with changing out MAP and TPS sensors, I did not expect it to idle or run very well, and it did not. In addition to it running a little rough, the idle was surging between low RPMs (1100-650) and then finally stalled. Restarted and it would run for about 30-40 seconds with surging idle and then stall. I plan to switch my TPS back and see if that changes anything.

Any other suggestions on where to go from here? I guess worst case is I have it running with clean oil enough so I can get anti-freeze in it and store it for the winter.