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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    208

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    392 trips in and out of the boat on Saturday yielded this.

    I'm using a combo of marine ply and some left over PT 4x4's which have been sitting around for a few years.

    I'll be looking to bed this side down and tab in once we get a little warmer weather.






  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    fort worth , tx
    Posts
    1,171

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    Double check your engine measurements and you will be golden , looks real good , I used a propane heater when mine got cold , it worked like a boat oven if you will lol , but I was pretty determined to get the glass work cured .


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    LIFE IS TOO SHORT NOT TO BE LIVELY

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    208

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    I remember reading your thread and seeing your tent to warm things up. I've been thinking about switching to PL to bed the stringers and then start cutting out and prepping the other side. By the time I get that done it may warm up enough to start Glassing without a tent/heater.
    Last edited by Cooose; 03-20-2017 at 08:36 PM. Reason: spelling

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    fort worth , tx
    Posts
    1,171

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooose View Post
    I remember reading your thread and seeing your tent to warm things up. Ive been thinking about switching to PL to bed the stringers and then start cutting out and prepping the other side. By the time I get that done it may warm up enough to start Gladding without a tent/heater.
    PL work well , you can hold the stringer off the hull with foam and then bed with PL . I would recommend using it in warmer weather though , cold it seems like it took a week before full cure .

    But it sure beat mixing up cabosill and glass for some peanut butter .


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    LIFE IS TOO SHORT NOT TO BE LIVELY

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    208

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    Do I need to sand away all the bilge paint before glassing? There is some bilge type paint on the backside​ where I'm strengthening the swim bracket mounts and I'm trying to get a feel for how much of it needs to come off.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Collegedale, TN
    Posts
    1,905

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooose View Post
    Do I need to sand away all the bilge paint before glassing? There is some bilge type paint on the backside​ where I'm strengthening the swim bracket mounts and I'm trying to get a feel for how much of it needs to come off.
    Yes, it needs to be sanded off. The resin and fiberglass have to bond with something and you don't want it to be the paint.

    1986 Saltare
    Restoration link: http://supraboats.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=7839

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    208

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    Quote Originally Posted by TitanTn View Post
    Yes, it needs to be sanded off. The resin and fiberglass have to bond with something and you don't want it to be the paint.
    Yeah, that's what I was thinking, but thank you for confirming. Everytime I think I'm close to done with grinding I find more.

    I do need some help I'm hoping some of those who've come before me can help with.

    Since I picked up the boat already torn apart, I don't know how the vent hoses were run, nor where the blower or blower(s) were positioned, so I'm looking for help from the forum members on what to do here. I've seen in many of there rebuilds that there is typically some sort of box or something on the transom where the hoses tie in, but I haven't come across anything like this. I know I will be replacing 100% of the tubing along with the blowers and wiring, but I'm not sure what lengths to buy, etc, etc,...it would be much easier if I'd taken it apart in the first place. I appreciate any insight here!

    I also placed an order today with US Composites for some Expoy which I can use at colder temperatures so I can go ahead and proceed with bedding the stringers and getting them set up. I decided I didn't want to roll the dice using the vinyl ester from the PO which had been sitting around for 14 months or so...i figure I can use it to seal up plywood which I will use above the floor, so if it doesn't work out it won't be too big of a deal.

    I'm also planning to place an order with CME Engines by Friday to get a long block. The block I have is indeed trashed so I'll be into it for ~ 3k shipped to my door with a 12mo / 300hr warranty.

    We are looking to close on a small lake cabin at the end of the month so, I'm really looking to pick up the pace a bit so I can get this thing on the water this summer. The downside is that the cabin is going to need some work so it will be competing for the time I can spend on the boat.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    208

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    Just a little update.

    I've gotten the main stringer on the stbd side bedded down with PL and plan to start on the fillets and tabbing on Sunday. I was constantly fighting the weather and finally broke down and picked up a 12x25 tent from pep boys on sale for 169 so I can finally make some headway on the glassing.

    The rudder assembly is rebuilt, and I've gotten the rebuild kits for the Sherwood RW pump and Holley, so will start in on those soon.

    Parts are starting to show up pretty much daily. My goal is to get her on the water by August but with any luck it could be sooner.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Collegedale, TN
    Posts
    1,905

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    Come on now, you know the rule. Pics or it didn't happen!

    1986 Saltare
    Restoration link: http://supraboats.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=7839

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    208

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    Quote Originally Posted by TitanTn View Post
    Come on now, you know the rule. Pics or it didn't happen!
    haha...so true!

    Here is the sherwood semi broken down...working on rigging up a press to swap in the new bearings.


    And the rebuild kits


    Rudder, before with the snap ring rust welded in, and after with it cleaned up.


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