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  1. #1

    Default First Inboard 1986 Supra Sunsport Skier starting the rebuild process

    Hello to all!

    I am newer to the forum but love the information and comradery here. I grew up with boats but spent most of my time skiing behind a fishing boat. We even went as far as to make our own ski pylon out of SS tubing. Of course once I moved 12hrs away from home dad finally bought a ski boat... I then started my boat ownership with a 1979 Viking Deck boat for $500 which actually could pull me skiing with the 85hp Evinrude it came with but before long I had dropped a 115 Mariner on it that really made that 800lb tri-hull move!

    A friend of mine was boat shopping after getting the bug while out skiing with me :^) and he stumbled on this Supra for $1,995. I couldn't resist and brought it home. Little did I know what I was getting into. Had I read the forums before going to look at it I would have know it would need stringers but it did run and drive smooth. The first red flag should have been the exposed wet foam around the exhaust log and the soft spots in the floor. Having done floors in Aluminum fishing boats before I wasn't too worried but I didn't understand the mechanism of water intrusion in these boats, I had never had an inboard before, not even an I/O. Well I have had it out a few times and LOVE the real inboard concept. I can't believe that they ever made I/O boats when inboards are this good!

    Now the real work starts as I noticed a bolt was loose on the ski platform and I wanted to pull the gas tank anyway to fix the fuel gauge sender. I couldn't help myself and starting pulling the floor and the wet foam. So far the stringers are wet but not rotten and my motor mounts are still solid. I have checked what I have exposed and there is minimal to no de-laminating so my plan is to get as much as I can out and put in a temp floor so that I can get a feel for what the boat would be like after a rebuild (without the 300lbs+ of ballast) before I jump in to a full rebuild. Feel free to post responses to my temporary floor concept below. I know it isn't the right way of doing things but the budget doesn't allow a full rebuild right now and if I can't use it I might as well sell it until I can afford to either buy a boat that is done/composite or find a deal on a boat that needs some love....
    DSC02983.jpgDSC02987.jpg
    Last edited by zroe; 06-22-2017 at 05:59 PM. Reason: add more pictures
    1986 Supra Sunsport Skier with 351W and swivel spotters seat

  2. #2

    Default a few more pictures of the floor removal

    Tools of the day
    DSC02988.jpg
    Peeling up the floor
    DSC02984.jpg
    DSC02985.jpg
    I could squeeze water out the foam (sponge)!!
    DSC02990.jpg
    The floor was coming out in various sizes of splinters but was reasonably strong yet.
    DSC02997.jpg

    I have a few more photos to post but thought I would ask if there is a better way to do this. I was hoping the manage attachments button would let me select multiple pictures at once?
    Also my pictures seem so much smaller than everyone else's on the forum. Is it a new member restriction? I took these with our nice 20MP camera so I thought they would have been bigger?

    Thanks for "participating" in my madness. Feel free to post advice below as I am making this up as I go.
    Last edited by zroe; 06-22-2017 at 05:58 PM.
    1986 Supra Sunsport Skier with 351W and swivel spotters seat

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    208

    Default

    I'm currently in the middle of a rebuild myself. I'm not sure what your DIY appetite is, but if you are happy with the ride & boat (outside of the soft floors) you could do the job be at ~ $4500 including your initial purchase. It's possible to find another inboard/deal that needs some love (as you put it ~ 5k, less so with documented stringer repairs and nearly impossible with composite. If you don't like/want to DIY, then I would run it and keep checking the motor mounts.

    In my opinion, if the full rebuild isn't in the budget I would not try any sort of temporary solution because the "demo" aspect has a way of getting away from you and next think you know you are cutting out stringers and posting threads about epoxy vs poly

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    208

    Default

    try to use a photo hosting site like photobucket or the like...i use imgur

    You are going to find that the stringers at the cross sections are going to be rotted for sure.

    Welcome to the club!

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cooose View Post
    try to use a photo hosting site like photobucket or the like...i use imgur

    You are going to find that the stringers at the cross sections are going to be rotted for sure.

    Welcome to the club!
    Thanks Cooose,

    So did you choose epoxy or poly


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1986 Supra Sunsport Skier with 351W and swivel spotters seat

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    2,164

    Default

    Good luck, zroe.

    Cooose is right on the partial repair slippery slope although I'm all for running it until you have no choice. One thing to watch out for is dry rot. Once wood dries out the rot gets the upper hand and wood will deteriorate more quickly. That's the reason it's called dry rot. You're better off with wet wood.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    208

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zroe View Post
    Thanks Cooose,

    So did you choose epoxy or poly
    My "boat deal " purchase came with 20 gallons of vinyl Ester which had sat for about 1 year past the shelf life. With some new harder it actually kicked off nicely so I'm using this for coating the wood going back in and for fillets. I bought a few gallons of epoxy to wet out the 1708. So far it's working pretty good for me.

  8. #8

    Default

    I can appreciate the quotations around "boat deal" as I'm hoping mine doesn't cost me marriage counseling as well
    I guess I should have read your thread a little closer to find out which resin you used, I did find the comment entertaining about demolition leading to resin discussions. I am trying to keep it simple and figured that the least I could do was get rid of all of that weight and moisture while I decide if I should keep it or not.

    So far the exposed wood where the cross-member was seems solid albeit wet. I'm going to test out imgur and post more pictures soon.

    "PMSalty87
    Good luck, zroe.

    Cooose is right on the partial repair slippery slope although I'm all for running it until you have no choice. One thing to watch out for is dry rot. Once wood dries out the rot gets the upper hand and wood will deteriorate more quickly. That's the reason it's called dry rot. You're better off with wet wood."

    From this it would seem that I was better off leaving the wet foam in the boat? I have only done the port side so far, but stopping now would induce a pretty bad list so I guess I will carry on the madness and keep an eye on the dry rot.

    I can't help but make a comment about most guys preferring "wet wood" over dry rot.... I hope I didn't offend anyone
    1986 Supra Sunsport Skier with 351W and swivel spotters seat

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Nice good luck with the project it's a lot of work but it will be well worth it. if you're really considering getting into it mine as well take the cap off now!!! Feel free to ask about any questions about the stringers I did a lot of research but there's always different ways to do it. good luck withe the wife !! Haha


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    208

    Default

    I'm not sure of the sunsport skier length compared to the saltare, but I have a 50' rub rail posted in the classifieds if you decide to split the hull & cap.

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