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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    15

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    So had to update. I FUCKING FIXED IT. What a long summer last year chasing this issue. Had to run it 3 times this summer just to confirm I actually ACTUALLY fixed it.

    It was the IGNITION COIL. Big thanks to roosm. I guess it must overheat after an hour of use.

    So here is a final list of things I replaced/addressed trying to track down this issue. Got a lot of 'long term' maintenance items knocked out cuz of this issue. Should add, I don't think the boat threw any codes this entire time that weren't my own doing by unplugging wires, etc. I don't think it was ever going in to limp mode.

    1) Spark plugs
    2) Plug wires
    3) Distributor Cap
    4) Throttle Position Sensor (left old one in, because new one cause it to run extremely rich/rough)
    5) Fuel Filter
    6) Both Fuel Lines (found a leaky line which made this entire endeavor worth it)
    7) Impeller
    8 ) Transmission Cooler Inspect/Clear
    9) Fuel pick up tube
    10) Ignition Coil

    On another note. I was losing power and getting symptoms of running out of gas this past weekend despite having a half tank. I had felt minor symptoms over the past month, but chalked it up to prop wash. Then on the trailer it wouldn't even start and the fuel pump wasn't priming or making noise. I replaced the fuel pump ($400 part!) and it still didn't make noise. No 12v to the pump wires either. I traced the power lines to some in line fuses, and bam one was shot. Plugged a new one in and it ran perfectly tonight. A full 30 psi from the fuel rail. I think the fuel pump died and threw a fuse on the way out.

    Oh yeah and that short on the wake plate was because the wires running from the steering column to the stern were rubbing on the sharp edge of the aftermarket radio and grounded them out.

    What a trip these boats can be. Hoping I can make it the rest of the summer without another issue!
    Last edited by tbs156; 06-21-2018 at 02:35 AM.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    1

    Default

    I have a 2005 24SSV.

    It was doing exactly as you described. Coughing and Spitting after almost exactly 1 hour of running. You could set your watch by it.

    I found your thread and replaced the ignition coil 2 weekends ago.

    I am declaring it fixed since I have had 2 perfect running weekends.

    Thanks a bunch to ALL.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Dayton, Oh
    Posts
    292

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    Just another data point. I found this thread as I was experiencing very similar symptoms. The only difference was that mine did not go away once the engine cooled down. Ran fine for an hour or so and then bam, no power over a certain RPM. Took a chance and replaced the coil as I was able to find one near the lake I am at and it worked. After removing the old one I noticed it had been blown out the side but on the bottom where it was not visible.

    Anyway, thanks for sharing your solution and it saved me a ton of time and money.

    Dave
    2005 22 SSV GG

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Dayton, Oh
    Posts
    292

    Default

    So as it turns out, the coil really appears to be bad, but it did not completely fix the issue. I still have a cold high idle with surging and I think misses as it vibrates more than usual. I just got my code scanner so going to see if that turns up anything. Rotor, cap, plugs, impeller, and egr all changed this spring, but honestly, I had the high and surging idle for a couple years. Exhaust manifolds were off getting freeze plugs redone, so took advantage of the easy access. I will update with any codes I find.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    2005 22 SSV GG

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    St. Louis , MO
    Posts
    135

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sluggo View Post
    So as it turns out, the coil really appears to be bad, but it did not completely fix the issue. I still have a cold high idle with surging and I think misses as it vibrates more than usual. I just got my code scanner so going to see if that turns up anything. Rotor, cap, plugs, impeller, and egr all changed this spring, but honestly, I had the high and surging idle for a couple years. Exhaust manifolds were off getting freeze plugs redone, so took advantage of the easy access. I will update with any codes I find.
    You might want to check your IAC. That will definitely cause high idle and surging. I disconnected mine doing some routine maintenance and forgot to plugsit back in. It would not idle down. As soon as I saw it was unplugged, I reconnected it and went back to normal idle. The ECM goes into a high idle if the IAC is not sending a signal. Your scanner will give you a lot of got info. I bought the one from Rinda. $500. Bucks, but worth every penny.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Dayton, Oh
    Posts
    292

    Default

    Thanks @secondsupra2004, that had crossed my mind as well but wanted to get codes, if any, before buying parts.

    I was able to get my scanner and it did show codes 22 and 34. Low voltage on both TPS and MAP. I picked up a MAP from Advance Auto today and TPS sould be here tomorrow. Plan to replace both, clear codes, and see what happens. Fingers crossed as we head out Friday morning to Lake Norris for a HB Trip out of Beach Island Marina.
    2005 22 SSV GG

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