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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    5

    Default 1989 Conbrio Classic - rudder and steering cable

    Hey folks

    Helping my dad get his 1989 Supra Conbrio Classic ready for spring after a number of years collecting dust in the garage.

    8F7D0E07-F6CB-4B2E-9CE4-2477B0B8D2B4.jpg

    I noticed the rudder had some play in it. When looking at the top side of rudder, should there be rope packing pinched down by the thin locknut (see pic)? Currently I can spin that lock nut by hand.

    F3B0F93D-6DDA-4A38-8FF6-8C80113E4E4B.jpg

    We also want to replace the steering cable. Can anyone make recommendations on which unit, length and where to buy?

    I would also like to find a plastic grill to replace this one which is diteriorating (pic below). Any leads would be greatly appreciated!

    D07265FC-5680-476F-844D-8DC7325477C5.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    St. Louis
    Posts
    188

    Default

    The short answer on a part like a steering cable is to call Skidim. They usually have the answer and the part.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Oyama, B C , Canada
    Posts
    650

    Default

    Go to SkiDim for your rudder question and actual cable.
    Go to “Go2marine” website for your louvered vent.
    In their search box enter “ plastic louvered vent”
    Before doing so measure the length and height of your existing vent cover.
    Good luck

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    208

    Default

    Check out this thread for the rudder rebuild. https://forum.supraboats.com/showthr...le-rudder-port

    I've done this on my rebuild project and it's pretty straightforward. You can still find the seals online and IIRC the whole rebuild (seals, snap rings, grease zerks, etc.) was like $20.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Thanks for the feedback on the vent. I will have to see if that Attwood one will work.

    I will call SkiDim but was hoping someone had experience with a helm/cable kit that could be shared.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Thanks Cooose. I found that rudder rebuild kit post prevously but I think I have the rope packing version versus your sealed version. Not sure if the rope goes between the bottom plate and the thin nut.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    208

    Default

    Have you already disassembled the rudder...if so post up the pics of the internal "guts" and such. Did you find rope packing when you disassembled?

    Also on your steering cable...I went with a uflex replacement 18' Rotech unit from Anchor Marine for right at $100 using some coupon I mined from some nefarious internet location. It looks like it's listing for 129 there now.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    2,164

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by g unit View Post
    How does a bilge/tiller stay so clean??

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Salty87 View Post
    How does a bilge/tiller stay so clean??
    LOL! I wondered the same thing after seeing some of the other rudder rebuild threads.

    My dad is VERY particular and is the original owner, so I'm chalking it up to that.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cooose View Post
    Have you already disassembled the rudder...if so post up the pics of the internal "guts" and such. Did you find rope packing when you disassembled?

    Also on your steering cable...I went with a uflex replacement 18' Rotech unit from Anchor Marine for right at $100 using some coupon I mined from some nefarious internet location. It looks like it's listing for 129 there now.
    No, I haven't disassembled. Plan to open it up this weekend. It doesn't have a zirk fitting or look like your post on this subject, so I was just guessing it was the rope packing version. After reviewing your thread again I guess the rope would be between the big nut and the rudder arm. I don't quite know how it all fits together at this point since I didn't see any rebuild pictures that looked quite like mine. Perhaps tightening the big nut down on the threaded surface and then back up the locknut to the bigger nut is all I need to do. We'll see.

    Thanks for the info on the cable.

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