Before you put the cap back on it will be a good time to put blocking in under the gunnels to support the tower mounts.
Before you put the cap back on it will be a good time to put blocking in under the gunnels to support the tower mounts.
I would cut 3/4 marine plywood as large as will fit and maybe 15'' long coat them with fiberglass then epoxy them to the underside of the gunnel.You can use the tower mount bolts to pull the blocking tight to the top cap. The epoxy will fill the gaps in between . The plates can be added after it dries . The whole idea is to spread the load over a larger section of the cap.
What’s the best way to cut stringers out? Don’t I need to cut all the way down to Hull? And what’s the best foam to put back in? I got s buddy that does spray foaming would that work?
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Ok so the foam doesn’t serve a purpose then?
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The principle behind foam is to attempt to prevent your boat from totally sinking in the event of a hull breach however the open cell foam that was used in the old Supra boats actually ended up retaining water, making the boat heavier and also contributed to the stringer rot issue. Some have gone back and used closed cell foam in various forms and methods. I elected to go with no foam so that I can better air out the boat and avoid issues going forward, plus I was on a mission to make it into a better ski boat and weight is the nemesis of that so I opted to forgo it. You cannot really go wrong either way, I like mine because I can air it out, see what is going on and I know the limber holes I added for any drainage needs can work effectively.
'86 Comp TS6M - Reborn 2016
Riding a HO Sports CX Ski