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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Flowery Branch Georgia
    Posts
    2,742

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    Before you put the cap back on it will be a good time to put blocking in under the gunnels to support the tower mounts.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Phoenix / Chicago
    Posts
    124

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    Quote Originally Posted by michael hunter View Post
    Before you put the cap back on it will be a good time to put blocking in under the gunnels to support the tower mounts.
    I’ll second that! I got into a rush to get my cap back on when I moved. Now it’s time for the tower install and I’m at a stand still until I transform into a human noodle to wiggle my way into the sides of my boat



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  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    28

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    Quote Originally Posted by michael hunter View Post
    Before you put the cap back on it will be a good time to put blocking in under the gunnels to support the tower mounts.
    What is best option for bracing in gunnels fiberglass in extra wood support or just put plate under mounts? Or like how long should they be?


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  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Flowery Branch Georgia
    Posts
    2,742

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    I would cut 3/4 marine plywood as large as will fit and maybe 15'' long coat them with fiberglass then epoxy them to the underside of the gunnel.You can use the tower mount bolts to pull the blocking tight to the top cap. The epoxy will fill the gaps in between . The plates can be added after it dries . The whole idea is to spread the load over a larger section of the cap.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    28

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    What’s the best way to cut stringers out? Don’t I need to cut all the way down to Hull? And what’s the best foam to put back in? I got s buddy that does spray foaming would that work?


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  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    N.W. Suburbs Chicago, IL
    Posts
    2,307

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    Quote Originally Posted by roll.model View Post
    What’s the best way to cut stringers out? Don’t I need to cut all the way down to Hull? And what’s the best foam to put back in? I got s buddy that does spray foaming would that work?
    I cut mine down as low as I could on one side, then started fabricating mine, then ground down the remainder and glassed in from there. Best foam is no foam, that was the option I went with.
    '86 Comp TS6M - Reborn 2016
    Riding a HO Sports CX Ski

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    28

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    Ok so the foam doesn’t serve a purpose then?


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  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    N.W. Suburbs Chicago, IL
    Posts
    2,307

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    Quote Originally Posted by roll.model View Post
    Ok so the foam doesn’t serve a purpose then?
    The principle behind foam is to attempt to prevent your boat from totally sinking in the event of a hull breach however the open cell foam that was used in the old Supra boats actually ended up retaining water, making the boat heavier and also contributed to the stringer rot issue. Some have gone back and used closed cell foam in various forms and methods. I elected to go with no foam so that I can better air out the boat and avoid issues going forward, plus I was on a mission to make it into a better ski boat and weight is the nemesis of that so I opted to forgo it. You cannot really go wrong either way, I like mine because I can air it out, see what is going on and I know the limber holes I added for any drainage needs can work effectively.
    '86 Comp TS6M - Reborn 2016
    Riding a HO Sports CX Ski

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    28

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jetlink View Post
    The principle behind foam is to attempt to prevent your boat from totally sinking in the event of a hull breach however the open cell foam that was used in the old Supra boats actually ended up retaining water, making the boat heavier and also contributed to the stringer rot issue. Some have gone back and used closed cell foam in various forms and methods. I elected to go with no foam so that I can better air out the boat and avoid issues going forward, plus I was on a mission to make it into a better ski boat and weight is the nemesis of that so I opted to forgo it. You cannot really go wrong either way, I like mine because I can air it out, see what is going on and I know the limber holes I added for any drainage needs can work effectively.
    Sounds good I will pry go that route as well then no foam! Definitely adding drain holes in it. Thinking about fabbing a little bit of ballast on each side not sure tho we wakeboard and wake surf a bit


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  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    28

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    Quote Originally Posted by roll.model View Post
    Sounds good I will pry go that route as well then no foam! Definitely adding drain holes in it. Thinking about fabbing a little bit of ballast on each side not sure tho we wakeboard and wake surf a bit


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    What does it take to remove center strip how far back does it run?


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