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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Cincinnati/Fort Thomas, Kentucky
    Posts
    221

    Default I concur.

    Quote Originally Posted by nboardskier View Post
    Salt is right. The SupraTrapps are the biggest reason so many of our beloved old Supras end up needing stringer replacement. No one ever knew to seal the joint inside the pipes and water got under the floor, wicked into the entire boat by the spongy foam. Good ballast though! Even though the traps sound great, you have to ditch 'em!

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
    The design does suck, directed the concussive force of the exhaust back at the hull and the thin seal with hot water.

    So, what'd you replace them with and how?

    Thanks,

    Jack
    Last edited by skiman_61; 06-11-2018 at 12:11 PM.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Cincinnati/Fort Thomas, Kentucky
    Posts
    221

    Default Pics

    Quote Originally Posted by skiman_61 View Post
    The design does suck, directed the concussive force of the exhaust back at the hull and the thin seal with hot water.

    So, what'd you replace them with and how?

    Thanks,

    Jack
    Pulled the baffles, here's what I found. Big gaps in the caulk. Figure if I clean and seal and put back I ought to be good.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Chippewa Falls, WI
    Posts
    5

    Default

    I have the same issue on my 88 Salt. I'm assuming that I need to take the gas tank out to get at the supertraps. Any particular pointers? I have loosened everything up but the gas tank doesn't want to really move. I haven't applied any force, thought I would check with the group.

    Thanks- I will also check the seems.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Cincinnati/Fort Thomas, Kentucky
    Posts
    221

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    I have the same issue on my 88 Salt. I'm assuming that I need to take the gas tank out to get at the supertraps. Any particular pointers? I have loosened everything up but the gas tank doesn't want to really move. I haven't applied any force, thought I would check with the group.

    Thanks- I will also check the seems.
    The pipes in my '87 meet the transom to within a millimeter. (see pics) I would not go to the trouble of removing the gas tank, as I did for deck replacement, just to mess with the pipes. My flange piece extends into the exhaust tube maybe an inch. I'm going to carefully re-caulk around the very small gap on the exterior of my tubes and let that cure for 24 hours. Then I'll replace the flanges and caulk them inside and out as well. My fiberglass guy did re-caulk the tubes, but I think it was one of his workers and maybe the guy wasn't diligent as the caulk sagged after application because he slapped it together wet.

    Best of luck to you.

    Jack

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    2,164

    Default

    That 'caulk' job is a mess, no offense.

    The flanges and screws should be bedded in sealant, not buried. The first plate seats into the flange and all that goop is just in the way. It's not causing your leak at least. This is how mine looked before teardown....
    Screen Shot 2018-06-12 at 7.48.05 PM.jpg

    The flange curls into the exhaust tube and overlaps the pipe. Whether it's an inch or 4 inches up it's an area that needs sealant. 3m 4200 is perfect for this application but there are other sealants approved for below the waterline.

    New sealant over old won't work well. Pull it all apart and clean it up. You'll see why the pipes need sealant, too.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Cincinnati/Fort Thomas, Kentucky
    Posts
    221

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Salty87 View Post
    That 'caulk' job is a mess, no offense.

    The flanges and screws should be bedded in sealant, not buried. The first plate seats into the flange and all that goop is just in the way. It's not causing your leak at least. This is how mine looked before teardown....



    Screen Shot 2018-06-12 at 7.48.05 PM.jpg

    The flange curls into the exhaust tube and overlaps the pipe. Whether it's an inch or 4 inches up it's an area that needs sealant. 3m 4200 is perfect for this application but there are other sealants approved for below the waterline.

    New sealant over old won't work well. Pull it all apart and clean it up. You'll see why the pipes need sealant, too.

    Yes, I should have taken more pics. I pulled all the old caulk. Those gaps around the pipe have to be where the water was getting in. Can’t imagine where else?

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Cincinnati/Fort Thomas, Kentucky
    Posts
    221

    Default

    Redid all the caulk around the exhausts. Let it cure as recommended. Still have water coming in. I'll pull the ski, platform this week and caulk the begets out of those holes. Water is appearing just on the other side of the vent hose below the exhaust.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Cincinnati/Fort Thomas, Kentucky
    Posts
    221

    Default

    Sealed the swim platform mounts today. Letting it cure.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Cincinnati/Fort Thomas, Kentucky
    Posts
    221

    Default

    UPDATES: I still have water coming in just under the exhaust pipe as can be seen in my last pic. I spoke with Vince at SKIDIM about the issue. He related that one other person in his experience had the pipes themselves leak. Has to be where it's coming in as I've sealed the bejeepers out of all other holes in the transom.

    Figuring I'll have to pull all of the stuff in the back end and pull the pipes.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    2,164

    Default

    That sucks. The exhaust pipes probably won't come out with the floor intact. I haven't tried but the motor side ends of the pipes have a 45 degree bend. And, the factory foaming job pretty much glued the pipes in place. The pipes are pretty thick so unlikely they'll rust out.

    Does your flooring go all the way back to the transom? Some models/years had the floor stop about a foot short of the transom. Nice access to all that stuff.

    Did you re-use the same screw holes for the baseplates of the trapps?...or fill them in (marine tex or epoxy, etc) and drill new holes?

    You found the joint a couple inches up the pipes that needs sealant?

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