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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Vancouver WA
    Posts
    1,113

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mischief IV View Post
    It takes me 15 min. just to find all my tools. Mr. Hunter probably keeps a Swiss army knife in his shorts when he skis for such occasion.
    Unfortunately, I have to remove ballast bags first to get to motor access. Then contort my body while laying in the fetal position in rear lockers while I say a few choice words and ponder why I don't just connect my bucket and fill her up with antifreeze like I did my Rider for so many years to much success.




    Thanks for posting pics. Very nice job on this boat. It is very inspiring to see someone with a vision and carry it out to such perfection. I like it!!!

    Just don't crack the block or this forum will be relentless.
    Interesting. I have a 2008 Moomba XLV and I can totally winterize w/o removing my rear 1100 ballast bags. I work on my engine ALL THE TIME with my bags still in. Getting to any of my plugs only requires kneeling on my folded down divider panels (I put my throw cushion on it to save my knees). While I'm at it, I typically change the oil too. It's all right there. No laying down required ever. I can't imagine your 2012 is that different than my 08 in layout, is it?

    That said, I get way more winter in WA than you do in GA and I simply drain the block, remove a couple hoses, drain the muffler, disconnect the hose that couples the exhaust risers, disconnect the hoses going to/from the heater and blow air through everything with my air compressor. Reinstall all plugs and hoses and get ready for spring. No antifreeze in my system. If the block's empty, there's nothing to freeze.
    2008 Moomba Mobius XLV. Monster Cargo Bimini, and more mods to come...

    1992 Supra Sunsport. **SOLD** 2k pounds ballast, Surf System, Blue LED's everywhere, decent audio system.


    Tow Rig: 2013 F150 Ecoboost FX4 (wife's rig) Other money pits include:1998 BMW M3 Cabriolet, 2002 Audi S6 Avant, 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Flowery Branch Georgia
    Posts
    2,393

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    Quote Originally Posted by trayson View Post
    Interesting. I have a 2008 Moomba XLV and I can totally winterize w/o removing my rear 1100 ballast bags. I work on my engine ALL THE TIME with my bags still in. Getting to any of my plugs only requires kneeling on my folded down divider panels (I put my throw cushion on it to save my knees). While I'm at it, I typically change the oil too. It's all right there. No laying down required ever. I can't imagine your 2012 is that different than my 08 in layout, is it?

    That said, I get way more winter in WA than you do in GA and I simply drain the block, remove a couple hoses, drain the muffler, disconnect the hose that couples the exhaust risers, disconnect the hoses going to/from the heater and blow air through everything with my air compressor. Reinstall all plugs and hoses and get ready for spring. No antifreeze in my system. If the block's empty, there's nothing to freeze.
    An empty block won't freeze but can you be absolutely sure its totally empty? Also the dry method promotes rust inside the engine . I don't like allowing the seals and gaskits to dry out. A lot of people do it this way. Adding antifreeze only takes a few minuts to do and insures no pockets of water to freeze

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Vancouver WA
    Posts
    1,113

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    Quote Originally Posted by michael hunter View Post
    An empty block won't freeze but can you be absolutely sure its totally empty? Also the dry method promotes rust inside the engine . I don't like allowing the seals and gaskits to dry out. A lot of people do it this way. Adding antifreeze only takes a few minuts to do and insures no pockets of water to freeze
    I get what you're saying. BUT if you're saying that I can't be totally sure that it's empty with draining it and blowing air through it, then wouldn't you also be saying that you can't be sure you're getting YOUR water out by draining it before you try to replace the water with antifreeze? Who's to say that you don't have pockets of water that the antifreeze isn't mixing with?

    I mean, come on, it can't work both ways. If you're unsure that all the water is out in my scenario, how could you be sure all the water is out and replaced with antifreeze in yours?
    2008 Moomba Mobius XLV. Monster Cargo Bimini, and more mods to come...

    1992 Supra Sunsport. **SOLD** 2k pounds ballast, Surf System, Blue LED's everywhere, decent audio system.


    Tow Rig: 2013 F150 Ecoboost FX4 (wife's rig) Other money pits include:1998 BMW M3 Cabriolet, 2002 Audi S6 Avant, 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Flowery Branch Georgia
    Posts
    2,393

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    Because any water still in the block will mix with the antifreeze . Sure it will slightly dilute it but I doubt it would make a one degree differance in protection temp. Your way if there is any water it will freeze . And then there is the rust formation inside the block. I dont like allowing the gaskets and seals to dry out every season. Bottom line its your risk a lot of people do it that way . I just don't want to gamble a high dollar repair over ten minuts of time and 20 dollars in antifreeze.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    London, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,175

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    Where this works is for the guy or mech that does not prob the drain hole. Deposits can accumulate an block this hole during draining. Water will flow out like sob initially then to a dribble giving a false sense of draining. It is no joke you must poke
    2009 21v Worlds 340 Cat
    run your engine after you change the oil
    Doug

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    17

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    Got her winterized last night, ran engine for around 30 min, cool thing is I can go out and do it every night if I want... rv/boat antifreeze is $10 for 5 gallons at Walmart. Electric pump was $29 at Atwood's, flows 1 gallon per minute, temp never got over 185*... took me about 15 minutes to plumb, next years winterization cost will be $10 and take just a few minutes to setup...







    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    London, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,175

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    Very nice. I still hope you drain the block before you do this. There is over 5 gallons of water in the block, exhaust manifolds , lines and mufflers. Diluting it with 5 gallons will reduce the freeze protection from -40 to +20 degrees and burst protection from -40 to about 0 degrees


    .IMG_1032.jpg
    2009 21v Worlds 340 Cat
    run your engine after you change the oil
    Doug

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    17

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    As I turned the electric pump on I got about 2 gallons of clear water out of the exhaust before the antifreeze came out.
    The biggest deal with this system is you have to run the engine long enough to open thermostat or take t-stat out.
    I did drain block partially after this to find slightly diluted antifreeze. Lowest temp in my area during winter is around 20 deg.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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